aquarianagecoming

The GREEN wire is hot constantly but is most definitely coming from the Chassis battery. I know cuz it is at 12.4 V along with my Chassis battery at the same time. The ORANGE wire is at 13.08V and that is consistent with my HOUSE batt's and the float charger operating There is NO CHANGE when the key is hot at ANY of the wires! So I may have another weird problem. I currently have my step completely unplugged as I suspected it was causing some issues. (when the new one was installed, it kicked off ALL my electrical problems in May) The above wiring diagram seems correct for my Cut-Off, tryin to figure out Step, Handle and Porch. I will plug the step back in and check my Voltimeter again on all wires with and without ignition on.

Good eye Herm, the co-pilot chair is in storage and I'm looking for someone to do upholstery on it... It's so nice without it for the time being - we have a spot through winter so we don't need it for a little while.... Good tip on the double pane windows!! Mine are single pane. I am re-covering the window "valances/boxes", but they WILL be reinstalled for privacy, darkness, temp retention. Wouldn't it be cool to replace with double pane that can go dark and opaque with the touch of a button! We had a tough early summer of trying to get A/C replaced... we had the reflectors in the windows and I bought a room portable A/C that saved our beans in those 100 deg days. I have put TWO new Coleman-Mach 3 -15k btu... the 866 models. They MOVE some air and chill this Rig right down but I KNOW they won't last like the old units. And I'm at least 4" taller now too. lol. Put the new shower fixtures in too...

Final Follow Up: I rec'd the new parts and installed all... I chose to disconnect ALL power sources, both battery banks and the shore connection to 50Amps. Esp since I was alone - I don't want my wife finding my smoldering corpse and she can't get the smell out of the RV, LOL! I confirmed that the coach was still drawing 12V from the Start/Chassis battery and the House bank at the same time... Somehow flowing through that bad Solenoid which must have frozen with contact between the sides. I am going to dissect it when I next have the opportunity, perhaps recondition it. I'm curious about the inner workings of the circuit breakers too... I think the major issue WAS the Battery Boost Solenoid stuck, allowing the Chassis battery to draw down for house loads. Of course, no mounting brackets were going to match up so there are always layers of "install" to do, LOL! I put the Circuit Breaker in correctly, AND I picked up a sweet Battery Minder with de-sulfate function and temp corrections to maintain my Chassis battery... NOW, the Battery Cut Off swithch turns my coach dark! Yay!! I can ALSO disconnect AT the house batteries via my knife blade. I am no longer drawing upon the chassis battery to power the house. I CAN utilize the Battery Boost from the driver's seat and WOOF she barks into life!! NOW I think I can figure out those front door switches with a little time on the Voltmeter... Thanks ALL again and I hope that folks down the line find this thread useful!! Doug Z

Hey All, Thank YOU so much!! I thought I'd give it a shot. And this wiring from dickandlois could really help. I'm gonna print that out and see what I can make of it. Also, Thank You, you are 100% correct on the circuit breaker... I have some new ones now. Thanks KayP, that is what I was thinking... I'm going to sit down with the voltmeter and figure out what's what with and without the ign switch turned on. I really appreciate everyone's help and will come back with solutions and look for others' to help. 😉 I included a pic of the front living room... We love color and cozy so.....

I have 135 pages of wiring diagram that mostly works for my coach... but I can not figure out which wires go where on these switches. Repairman "A" may have pulled them when working on the replacing the Step. Repariman "B" CERTAINLY pulled them all off and wired up the Battery Cutoff switch with the wrong wires. He found his mistake upon the next service call and I believe that the battery cutoff is now wired correctly. I want to have my lights and step working correctly and I want to put this all back together. AND I don't want the same repairman compounding his mistakes, lol. I see that the double Orange labelled "8" is HOT The Green wire labelled "3" is HOT Gray is Neutral or ground Orange #7 is Neutral or ground Black are Neutral or ground I will upload the pics I have of the wires and switches and also upload the wiring diagram or put a link: http://www.mediafire.com/file/vulgab5j4lhko4d/_92_Dynasty_Wiring_Diag.pdf/file I don't think I can upload the 135 page pdf... Thanks in Advance for Any help, Doug Z

New Parts and dang switches! He had wired the orange into the battery cut off switch = elec phantom charge back into the system... These things are all Numbered... anyone have any idea??? I have 135 pages of wiring diagram but NOTHING about this. Seems this set up varied so much across the same make and model depending upon interior options and whatnot. Double Orange is HOT labelled with "8" Green is HOT labelled with "3" I thihnk I will post this as a NEW question...

Thanks Everyone, Kay P and Rayin and Hermann, I appreciate all the experience and knowledge. I know it is a confusing problem and is even confusing to picture and describe!! Ray, I hear you on the batteries, but I took them all to be checked and they refused to sell me all three since those old batteries were operating as NEW. He coulda BS'ed me, but all seems fine! The only battery that was bad, was the first one with both + and - on it - I have since moved them to opposite ends of the 3 batt bank. We were able to isolate 3 problems: 1. Bad circuit breaker FROM the house batts TO the inverter - jumped until replacement arrived today 2. Battery Boost Solenoid was bad. This should have meant that I just couldn't boost. I am replacing with a heavy duty Solenoid Continuous duty 500A with 1500 spike. Everything is Factory back here in the compartment and I want the OEM abilities working = battery boost. 3. Repair man "A" unplugged and possibly rewired incorrectly the house switches for Step/Handle/Porch and BATTERY CUT-OFF when he was installing the new Kwikee step. He did NOT perform the diagnosis that is supposed to be done prior to install so we have NO way of knowing until I do this myself. The step does NOT operate correctly. Off is On and On is off now. Won t work wired the other way. Must grab the pigtail and battery and run through the diag. The step they sent me new was pre-bent from the factory. What a headache!! You just can't send a big furry monster to do the work of an evil scientist!! Repair man "B" found this problem, but then unplugged all and ONLY rewired the Battery Cut Off INCORRECTLY with the wrong power lead. This was sending a current back into the system and NOT allowing any of the DC power to flow correctly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Repair man "B" FINALLY found some wiring diagram and realized his mistake. Battery Cut-Off solved for now. Rewired correctly (I hope) see pics. But now I need help figuring out this set up of switches! I will pic here but create a new post with the new problem. Can't pics to load and can't figure out why... Will try another post here

Lazy Days in Florida has been caught DEFRAUDING their elderly customers via the Service Department. They charge for maintenance that they DO NOT do!!!!! This is horrible on several levels. I had to involve the State AG and the local news channel back in 2012- they refunded my $$, but they clearly have a "program" of fraud going on... it was all very slick and the Service Mgr was clearly NOT surprised when we called him out on it! Do NOT assume that they actually did any of the work, you MUST check fluids/filters and such for yourself... THEY are counting on older folks NOT doing the tougher inspections or underneath visuals. They LOOOVE taking your money, don't seem to care about the humans beings that entrust them to perform crucial Rig maintenance!! Fool me once, shame on me...

That “bus” is actually a self resetting thermal circuit breaker and mine is bad. It supplies power to a massive wire going to rear of engine pic attached. also my powerline pl1-190-2 shows a small charge across both batt terminals = bad Isolator … there is 1-2 volts moving across it from house to chassis Other bigger wire comes to the side of THIS relay/solenoid pic2 not sure how to test these back to Google

Update 7/27 i am following my House battery wires… All wire into a”bus” terminal pic attached#1 iread 14.5V AT the house batts and all connections EXCEPT that final wire leaving the upper, 2nd bus has 0. = bad bus. jumped it but still no DC. 2nd pic Batteries are wired as this:3rd pic following wires into Relay/Solenoid/Isolator and i have a vid to watch testing these next Has to stop for night

Thanks KayPSmith!!!

Thanks Kayp! Seems to be good Voltage coming through the Isolator while engine is running. 15+ Amps From the Alt and 14+ to Both House and Chassis batteries. Is there another way to check it? ALL fuses are good! Both 12V and 120AC. I had a repair guy come out when my Battery Cutoff wouldn't work at all - NO power to the coach. Only Ac power to receptacles and a/c thank god. He thought my wires were all mixed up so he got it to work... BUT it is only pulling power out of the Chassis battery. He seemed to get the switch wired right but again - ONLY pulling juice FROM the Chassis battery. He found that the Battery switch on the dash would trigger a relay, but did'nt seem to work. Wouldn't combine bnattery power for start. We had to jump start and then replace the Chassis battery - THAT is when we figured out NOTHING would work in the coach without that Chassis battery in place. Full charge in new deep cycle with charger running a float and NO discharge from House batteries yet NONE of that pwer is getting FROM the deep cycle batteries TO the House. How do I find/test Battery Disconnect Relay or Battery Disconnect Solenoid? Are there 2 in my 1993 Monaco Dynasty?

Reset button right in front and I have reset it. fuse is okay. Wonder if there is an inline fuse or an issue with a "solenoid" somewhere?????

Also: I have checked voltage at the Isolator in the engine compartment: 15+ From the alternator and 14+ out to chassis and house batteries! voltage test AT the batteries with: Batteries at rest, no shore, no engine/ no gen = 13.08H 12.97C seems to be draw? think it was inverting off of the starter battery Shore ON: 13.3H 13.02C Engine ON: 14.25H 14.2C fuse seems okay IN the charger...

Yes, thanks Herman!! I have full use of my AC power to run on both shore AND generator. I will picture my Magnum and hunt for that fuse... there is a 30A screw in type on the side... I will cut all power and check it right now.

Help. My current symptom is that I can NOT get the House to run from the House batteries. Batteries are either new or tested good. New Chassis battery. It will run everything once I turn "on" the battery cut-off switch at the door directly from the starting battery and pull NOTHING from the house batteries. I hear my "relay" in the kitchen area switching over whether on or off... I have a fancy Magnum pure sine wave Charger/Inverter that was NEW about 10 years ago seems to be working fine. No codes or warnings, seems to be float charging the house batts... The other old guys in the park think it may be the ISOLATOR??? Could this be caused by the house batteries being reversed?? I'm wondering if I've screwed something up ove rthe past year or another 28-yr-old part is going bad... I did rewire the house batteries so that I pull + from one end and - from the other. 3 x 12V deep cycle so that I wouldn't cook the first one in parallel config. I have a 93 CumminsISC8.3... and I could not find an answer to this question after a few hours of looking... I am happy with links to old posts if anyone has an idea...

Threw my old ones out because they could not sync me up with my old member #... LOL.

I bought a set of these on sale and am very happy with them! they fit over the top of the tire, have some elastic to hold them - they are going NO where! I have them on a 33" tire/Wheel on my Class A. I went with White. They are thick vinyl with backing that slides... https://www.campingworld.com/overdrive-rv-tire-covers-pair-630115.html#q=wheel covers&start=8&sz=15&cgid=covers%2Ftire-covers IDK how long they will last, but first year and doing great!

Hope I may chime in... I noticed a previous poster had changed tire size on their coach... I'm wondering pros and cons of doing so. I have 10R22.5 on my 93 Roadmaster chassis currently (in a set of Toyos aged out and dry cracking) ... and from what I understand, this size tire is on its way out and harder to find. I've been calling the dealers and checking on the prices via the FMCA program... and the guy at the Conti dealer had the following recommendation for me: Switch out to all 6 tires in either 255/70 22.5 or a 295/75 22.5 size tire. From the 10R22.5. My understanding is that the 10R22.5 is a 100% aspect ratio so 10" tall as well. That 255 is real close to 10", but that is a much lower profile tire, Think I"ve seen 255/80 or 90 which should be closer... I am concerned about ride height, handling, safety... If I AM going to change, what size is best/closest? I"ve been hunting through the posts on tires, tireman etc.... I would love to do the Michelins for the steer tire, but they are expensive $503 with discount before install. And, I can't get the RV tire in my size so I have to go with the "Regional" Steer tire and I wondered if that was going to handle any better than the toyos. NOw, I"m looking at putting 2 Conti HSR2 on the front (tier 1 tire, good discount $384/tire) and then some tier 2 (general? made by conti) on the 4 rear. (D460 traction @ $323/per) I am currently extremely price sensitive, but will spring for the best steer/handling/safe tire on the front if it will make a difference. While I am looking to save money on the rubber where I can, I WILL be installing a TPMS for all 10 wheels along with tires as I think that is a no-brainer anymore as good tpms come down in price. I don't want to over ride the best thinking of Roadmaster engineers, but I'm willing to explore any and all options to improve performance, safety, handling. Just in case the profile isn't working (I just rejoined after a long hiatus) 1993 Monaco Dynasty on a Roadmaster chassis Cummins ISC 8.3 turbodiesel 250hp Allison mh3060 6 spd 119,000 miles