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dickandlois

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Posts posted by dickandlois

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Mike,

    Thanks for the update.

    Using the information from the web link you listed. The number 2 pin(Black Aux) could be used to feed 12 volts to the brake system, or be used to keep the battery charged so as you use up power it is being replaced. Make a note so anyone working with this change is aware and the reason. Service Centers do Not Like Surprises ! It kind of goes What The $&^%***)(

    By placing a diode in the line or right at the battery, with the banded end connected to the positive terminal would allow power to flow to the battery. It also will act as a(one way valve) it will not allow power to flow back to the 6 pin Toad connection.

    Typically, a 6 amp diode, rated at 50 volts will work just fine. The wire gauge should be # 8 or # 10. The longer the run the heaver the gauge wire required.

    You did mention a connector to the cigarette lighter. Are you using this to power the braking system?

    The braking power could come directly from the coach, but if you loose the connection for some reason then (No Brake System) the the circuit powering the battery. Even if the circuit is lost between the coach and toad you would still have braking for the toad. Should the fuse blow for some reason, then your back to a no brake situation.

    ONE other thing if you are just powering the aux braking system then you could use a lighter gauge wire-- say a # 12 gauge. Still use the Diode!

    Hope this helps.

    Rich.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Keven ! Oshkosh was bought out by Freightliner. Have you tried to contact them?

    I think I have a possible source for some parts ,but will have to look it up in my files.

    will add the info. to this reply when I find it.

    Found a link to the Oshkosh owners sight. The parts link came back as unsecured when probed by my search engine,so we will forget that for the time being.

    http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Oshkosh_Diesel_RV_Chassis/

    Reading your post about the high speed working OK when tested,makes me wounder if there is a relay in the circuit for the high speed setting.

    If so.you mentioned that it has never worked. That makes me think that a wire supplying power to the mentioned relay is missing or has come loose from eather the dash control or in the area of the fan.

    Hope this helps,Rich.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Have Not found this listed on any of the topics.

    Furnace comes on by itself.

    The issue described covers a problem where the furnace will come on even when the control switch is set to OFF and the Thermostats set at the lowest setting.

    The Intellitec climate controls can have a problem in the control electronics, where a signal calling for heat is generated and will start the furnace(s).

    When this problem occurs there is no way to shut them down with the user controls.

    There are 2 ways to turn them off buy interrupting the 12 volt supplying the improper operation:

    The first is to disconnect the 12 volt power connector from the Master Control Board. This is not the temperature setting panel that one uses to set the temperature for the Furnace / AC, or modes, high / low fan or auto control.

    The control board you are looking for is labeled.

    Electronic Climate Control. Energy Management Unit. Master Controller.

    The module is generally located near the DC Power fuse panel or AC Breaker panel.

    Disconnect the power connector from the board. This will disable the Master Controller.

    When disconnected you lose all control of the furnace and air conditioning.

    The second step is to remove the outside cover of the furnace affected. Many Coaches have 2 or more.

    Behind the cover is a power switch that powers down the effected furnace and prevents the defective signal being generated by the Thermostat(s) logic boards form starting the furnace! Replace the cover! Then reconnect the power plug you removed from the Master Controller. All other units controlled by the controller should return to normal operation.

    Note! The same signal affecting a front or read furnace may very well affect the same area Air conditioner.

    Should the same problem happen with the Air Conditioner(s) all you need to do is remove the connector at the master controller connector that feeds power to the control relays mounted inside the effected unit!

    You may hear a clicking sound coming from the Master Controller when this failure is happening or about to take over control of a furnace, that will keep running with no way to control the setting.

    The Temperature probes could cause a similar problem and by disconnecting the probe(s) will answer that question because the affected unit will stop running.

    The Master Controller can also fail, but they are not the most common cause for a failed furnace / AC control problem.

    R.M.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Putting a tone on the wire should not cause a problem. With the wire not connected it should not have any voltage on it. Then you can check and see if it does show up at the back.

    Your Coach being so new,chances are there will be a secondary fuse / relay box in the rear area for the Coach. They install them to protect the rest of the coach circuits from problems that can be caused by incorrect or damaged Toad wiring.

    Thinking that the tone might just show up in that box or get you close to it.

    R.M.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Rusty, This question sent me into the archives.

    If you have a Ford Chassis. These are the some of the things to check.

    I will leave out the Tire issues for now.

    As mentioned by Brett check the power steering fluid level.

    Loose or damaged hoses connections.

    Leakage between reservoir and housing.

    Leakage at pump shaft seal area.

    Steering

    Misaligned flexible coupling ( if so equipped) to gear interface.

    Steering column alignment.

    Steering linkage or front axle spindle pins for a binding condition or lack of lubrication.

    Bind in the front axle spindle thrust bearing.

    Steering gear adjustment.

    Power Steering Belt.

    Power Steering pump pressure and flow below specs.

    Air in the system.

    Contaminated fluid, incorrect fluid.

    Bad steering line,bent or kinked tubing.

    Steering gear valve binding or gear out of adjustment.(Integral Power Steering)

    Excessive internal gear leakage.

    R.M.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Rich,

    I just found you note in the comment section.

    Glad you found the bad diodes. They do hide them in the darnedest places,almost impossible to find them.

    The fact that they where burned open had to make for a good day when you located them.

    All is well that ends well and now you know right where they are located. Having working brake lights is good.

    Hope that you will share you knowledge with others.

    R.M.s

  13. Posted · Report reply

    The brake lights are only on when braking, so it would take a long time to discharge a battery. The other option you might consider is adding a 12 volt wire from the coach to the battery.

    Should your coach have a 12 volt circuit at the trailer / toad socket, add a wire running between them.

    Connect a diode in the line to prevent a back feed issue. A 6 amp at 50 volt diode should do the job.

    The diode end with the band goes to the battery. use a 8 or 10 gauge wire, Red colored wire should be used and will keep the battery fully charged.

    When the battery gets to a point due to age that its hard to start the Toad, the circuit described will not carry enough current to charge a battery with a bad cell !

    R.M.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I have found that its a trade off.

    Plastic are lighter and blocks out light to varying degrees depending on material and thickness. Plastic gets dried out and becomes brittle over time.

    Metal blocks light regardless of thickness, generally is heaver, weight wise. They can be bent and hold more heat. They do not get brittle over time.

    These issues are what I have had to consider over the years. Fabric shades fad over time and the material breaks down over time.

    Just my thoughts on blinds.

    R.M.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    dheismann ! You are describing is referred to as a dual terminal battery if I'm reading your post correctly.

    They have a standard battery post on top that has a post clamp tightened by a bolt and nut and a threaded terminal on the side that uses a threaded connector.

    The difference in voltage reading might be from just a little oxidation on the side terminals.

    The buss bar that is internal on the battery just has been adapted to have two negative terminals and two positive terminals and are at the same point electrically, just that one sites above the other. Everything else is the same internally.

    Remove the terminal connections and wire brush them. read the voltage,then reconnect the cleaned terminals and read the voltage again and let us know. What the reading is.

    R.M.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hanko, just picked up on the fact that you have had no responses to your thread.

    8.3 coming apart is not good,but it happens. There can be some issues, like failing to change oil and filters when they are needed that will kill an engine or an over speed issue in regrades to Max. RPM's.

    Could you fill in some details regarding the mileage on the unit, and any other drive train items affected.

    Some times owners want more power and they add items to the engines and do not take into account what they are doing, also can damage other parts in the drive train.

    Can not answer issues regarding the interior amenities on the model.

    R.M.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Brett, A question, I'm familiar with vacuum controls on the Gas units,but My Diesel Pusher uses electric motors / servo's to redirect air flow and a cable to control the mix of hot and cold air to set temperature.

    Do some of the Diesel units have a vacuum pump also?

    I did make the assumption that the coach listed was a Diesel powered unit !!!

    R.M.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Regarding Brett's post. Copy of mode SW operation from Allison Trans Manual.

    Mode button

    Allison Automatics offer primary and secondary shift

    schedule modes to enhance performance or fuel

    economy. The vehicle always defaults to the primary

    mode (light off). You can switch to the secondary

    mode (light on) by pushing the mode button

    R.M.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    This is and older post an I have no idea if you have resolved the issue. However!

    The per-heaters are controlled by the Engine ECM. They are powered from the batteries through two 100 amp. self resetting circuit beakers that connect to 2 heater coils in the intake manifold, the circuit(s) are controlled by 2 ECM circuits using relays. One for each heater. The connections can get corroded or one of the beakers or relays could have failed.

    One of the heaters may not be working or being sensed by the ECM.

    With a meter read the return side voltage,that will be the wire going back to the ECM. Best test is when things are cold. If the reading is 12 plus volts on one of the return circuits and not the other, there is an open circuit between it and the ECM or and ECM problem.

    Should you read zero volts or close to it on just one, there is a chance of an open heater. With the key off read the resistance of both coils,are they the same? If not and on reads open,bad heater element is a possibility.

    R.M.

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