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dickandlois

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Posts posted by dickandlois

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Think that your heater functions are controlled by solenoids. that being the case,I would look for the chassis fuse box(s) under the dash,drivers side. fuse size would be around 25 amps and located in the main fuse block.

    Now, as I ponder the question,do you get air flow from the defroster? When you switch the controls to redirect flow to the floor, does the air flow to the defroster stop?

    I found the floor ducts on my coach(a different brand) had never been connected to the floor registers.

    Most likely the heater controls are supplied by the Chassis manufacture not the Coach manufacturer.

    R.M.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    This problem has turned up on a number of the larger PU trucks and some cars. That for the most part do not use the flexible lines used on Coaches. Not to say it is not possible with all the effort spent on how to save another dime.

    The one item I have found to leak and not show any sighs of the dye are the valves in the High and Low pressure monitoring and charging points.

    That little Schraeder Valve, like on tires. In this case the seal color for AC systems is Green. A little different compound because of the heat and cold range of the different sections of the system. They leak so slowly that it takes weeks to even months to see the reduced cooling effect, and the green dye is trapped under the caps. Not a sign of it on the exterior of the cap.

    So,if you clean this area vary well with,something like spray contact cleaner, after it has been vacuum pumped, dyed( DO NOT OVER DYE OR OVER OIL) and recharged to the proper point.

    Clean the caps the same way,put them on and forget it for a few weeks.

    Then remove the cap, where it is a little dark at least, (not out in the sun) and shine a UV light at the area. (Black Light) if it glows it is leaking.

    Considering the cost to recharge the systems along with time to vacuum pump, and other items needed is it worth it?

    Should you live in an area of the country where you get an extended cooler season,then just before the hot weather arrives and the AC is not working anyway.Replacing the valve core at the time gets the best bang for your buck.

    I loose about 8 to 10 oz. of 134 in my truck over 12 to 18 months and 6 to 8 oz. in the Coach (Motorhome)over the same period of time at present.

    If you do change the core section, clean things VERY VERY well inside the stem area and the seal of the valve core. The smallest leek and the charge will slowly drop. If there is the smallest flaw in the set area its not ever going to completely seal.Then to replace the section(s)with the valve,is it worth $$$. ?

    When one gets real lucky with the proper torque and cleaning and you reach 24 to 36 months, Well done my friend, Well done.

    R.M.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Before you order one unplug the motor from the circuit. if you have a battery charger,with some small alligator clips connected to the motor connector. Apply power,reversing the positive and negative to see if the motor runs in and out.

    Note ! keep clear of the steps,as they can pin you down between them and the ground.

    If things work even slowly lub all the pivot points and try again.

    R.M.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I found a nice looking Coach, that I liked! but the down fall was it had been on a trip to Alaska.

    Now the story and what we needed to do.

    Nice and clean in side. Outside was in great shape. Looked over the paper work and information on maintenance and service.

    The unit was back to the factory 3 times for outside skin and hardware repairs. OK! this explained why it looked so nice.

    I then took a look underneath and went OH BOY!!!

    The party that had owned it did not take any time to have the Coach washed well while driving in areas of dirt roads,where they use Calcium Chloride to reduce the dust. They do mention one should be washing underneath.

    This lack of getting it washed,had allowed the Chloride to eat away every piece of metal framing from the floor down to the pod support assembly and the metal holding the lower portion of the side panels. This would require removing every inch of the metal work exposed to this chemical.

    Not being one to walk away from a challenge, I made and offer on the coach. No way, no how was the reply.

    OK ! Then sell it to someone and get stuck with the paperwork and cost, when you have to replace everything and put up with a very unhappy party.

    Three months later we received a call. ARE you interested in the Coach? Well yes, but on my terms. Good Price and 6 months of my labor, its still on the road and I know where every nut,bolt and weld seam is. Not everyone would even consider or attempted this venture.

    Having most of the tools and time spent over the years fixing about everything with wheels and some items without. This was one I had to try-- win or loose!

    The life style is fantastic, You can get a new view out the window anytime you want and have fun meeting different people with many of the same interest.

    Remember, you are buying a house with all the required maintenance, a large truck with the required maintenance and a power plant to supply your electricity.

    With a few other amenities thrown in. The Learning Curve can be steep, but the rewards are something you can not put a price tag on.

    Coaches come with many options and floor plans. So take time to think about how you travel. Stop at campgrounds.Travel to out of the way places, Travel at night when the kids are sleeping. When you make a short stop can you get to what you need with out opening a slid-out or two.

    Everything is on the table, this is your home away from home !!! Then you might know what size and items you need to fit the life style!

    Remember the bigger the Coach the fewer the locations you can enter, many state and federal camp grounds have size limits.

    Best of Happy and Safe travels. R.M.

    ,

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I have a friend in England, that purchased a Coach about 15 years ago, and had it shipped back across the pond. Must be an interesting sight traveling down the M4.

    He has kin in Western Canada that let him in the door when he comes across the pond. He did mention that he was thinking of visiting this year,but not sure of the itinerary.

    As we get younger things change faster, so flexibility is required.

    R.M.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    William, Check this link.

    http://www.irv2.com/...pad-112447.html

    This could be the problem, if you have a meter and read the voltage at start up with the meter connected to the power circuit,watch the meter and see if the voltage drops and the shift pad then goes blank.

    The ECM for the transmission is located right in the shift selector area, from what I have been able to dig up so far.

    This makes some sense to me because it was working fine until you tried to engage the transmission after it had been sitting for a period of time, positive power is supplied through a butt connector ( Red Wire) near the control module. Bad connection no transmission and no Tachometer reading.

    R.M.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Every manufacture has tolerances they work with and on occasion, two plus or two minis side parts get put together that results in a dud.

    With the serial number it would be interesting to see the production run info. that went with the engine in question.

    Not being familiar with there production protocol,where (are) the Rod and Journal bearings clearances gauged during production?

    Again thanks for posting the information. Your on the West Cost and I'm on the East side,but maybe some day we will meet up.

    R.M.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Reymore!

    Great write up.

    It would be interesting to know what the Connecting Rod,Cap and number 3 rod journal looked like. With magniflux ,electron scan and annealing measurements. The other issue that is up in the air! what did the bolts look like,over torqued or just defective when manufactured.

    Work on production line quality is always challenging, working with multiple suppliers and trying to keep good parts inspection in the parts room keeps life interesting for sure.

    Thanks for sharing, I learned a good deal.

    R.M.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    How handy are you? It requires adding, removing some of the steel and wood with the plumbing changes. The good part is the opening in the outside left by removing the current unit is real close.Good to check the opening to see if the mounting flanges are close to the same dimensions and that the cover / access door will cover the work sight so you do not have the added cost of reworking the outside skin.

    An on demand water heater can be installed in most cases. You will need to look at where its located and how you might modify the the area to mount it.

    Nice thing is you will never run out of hot water, but its easy to fill the gray tank quickly !!!!

    Think I have some mounting information in my hot water heater file.

    If you are interested I will look and see if I have a link for the details.

    R.M.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I have to wonder if the 18 wheelers get ticketed also. Many have a sleeper with the same amenities a Motorhome has. They just have less living space. So do they get ticketed also if they have reached there limit in regards to staring at white lines.

    Rest Areas are in my mind just that. A spot to stretch ones legs and get a nap.

    If they can not be used this way then set a time of day when an officer closes a gate or just close the rest stop entirely. Then everyone will just drive on by, problem solved.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Been thinking about this issue in the back of my mind.

    You mention, after about 5 towing cycles. How far do you run on each cycle/trip? and is there an increase in temperature that happens each time the check engine light comes on?

    You mentioned the garage has changed the canister when the code comes up. Thinking that the code is related to the fuel evaporation sensing circuit.

    I have no information regarding the purge cycling interval programed into the ECM.

    Thought is that if there is power to the ECM even when being towed,along with other data being collected,say wheel rotation signals would be present and a purge cycle is initiated and the purge valve is opened ( valve is powered from the ECM), the integrity of the fuel vapor recovery system fails,Because the vacuum level detected in the system is missing or does not change. Then a check engine code would be set. Emission system failed.

    A little like when we forget to tighten the gas cap, or in my case,should I trigger the low fuel light and leave the engine running while fueling. The light stays on until I turn off the engine. Then the fuel level sender voltage in high enough to reset the ECM and the light is off when I start the engine again. The ECM can not reset the low fuel code even if I drive for hrs. Stop the engine and away goes the low fuel indicator, a piece of missing code in the software.

    If the light never comes on then I can add fuel with the truck running and no light. Leave the gas cap loose and the check engine code will come on.

    Just some thoughts from outside the box.

    R.M.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    RM1953 ! Thanks for the pictures ! A little different then expected. Your fan motor uses a hydraulic valve to control the fan speed,not a electric pulse width controlled valve.

    So more digging on my part to find information on what controls the pressure control valve.

    Things just got interesting because I need to find out if your system is controlled from the ECM or if its directly controlled from another module that is controlled by Thermocouples mounted on the CAC and Radiator.

    I was looking for a slice or two of cheese and got a large brick.

    Time to contact one or two of my contacts and share your pictures !!! Back to the classroom..

    R.M.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    RM1953! with the info sent does it look like the 2 items pictured?

    When you say hot, do you mean the cooling motor gets hot or when the engine temp is hot?

    If the motor stops when the engine heats up can you still spin the fan? That fan can not be turning when you try this !!! And make sure you can get you finger out of the way just in case it starts up again. Best to try to turn it with a short stick not a finger.

    When the fan stops and the engine is hot, have you found a way to power it from a source? Your DC system is 12 volts so the Control solenoid should work on 12 volts to open fully.

    The ECM controls the the speed by the length of a pulse sent to the fan. The fan should turn slow or not at all when the Engine is cold and speed up as engine temperature increases.

    Did you have any overheating problems before changing out the hydraulic pump?

    There could be a problem with the temperature sensors that send information, regarding the temperature of the CAC and radiator, that where border line before the pump was changed.

    The other problem that might be happening, is as the oil in the system heats up it thins out and you get the cavitation effect I mentioned do to air in the system rising to the highest point and stopping the flow of oil through the loop.

    Should the motor run with an external power source, the problem could be with the ECM. That is a long reach because you replaced the pump and it was working before.

    R.M.

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