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woodlodge

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Everything posted by woodlodge

  1. Has anyone used the awning clamps sold at camping world from "RV innovations" that are supposed to keep one's awning from unfurling while driving? The clamps look like plastic chain and attach directly to the RV. I have had my awning come unfurled while driving in severe winds twice which is a major pain. I wonder if the clamp add ons will keep this from happening and if its worth drilling my RV to attach them.. any info would be appreciated.
  2. I have a 2003 Winnebago Brave that has the exterior paint/fiberglass (?) cracking. It is only happening on an area of about 5 sq. ft. on the passenger side front wall in front of the entrance door. The underside feels solid but the cracks keep expanding. So far I have done my best to cover the cracks with sealant to keep as much water out as possible but feel I need to do something more. Has anyone experienced this phenomenon and is there a reasonable economical solution? I have talked to a local body repair shop that said they could fix it but may not be able to match the paint and/or the graphics. A local dealer informed me that Winnebago pressure glues the fiberglass to the exterior and it is a major fix to correct my problem. Any information would be appreciated.
  3. I recently installed a new faucet in the galley and now my pump won't shut off (pump up to pressure). I have run all of the faucets throughout the mh to get rid of the air and I have cleaned the screen in the pump but still can't get it to stop running. I have let it run for an extensive period of time (until it got pretty warm)and still it won't shut off. It worked fine before I installed the new faucet and can't figure out what I could have done wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  4. Thanks, Mike. I'll check the lights, that's a new one on me. I have checked the chassis manual that I have and it doesn't list the warning lights.
  5. I have a 2003 Winnebago Brave and recently a warning light on my dash comes on. It is located in the upper left corner of the dash display and is a red circle with an exclamation mark in the center. I can't find what this means or what I should do about it. If anyone has any information of what this indicates and what I should do about it I would appreciate it.
  6. i had an oily residue on the inside of my wheel and found that the rubber cap on my oil bath bearings was missing and had sloushed out onto the tire. if you have oil bath bearings i would check this. i posted this similiar problem earlier in the forum and had several replys that you can read. there was a lot of good info replies.
  7. OK it finally warmed up enough here in Ohio for me to look at the MH. Found the problem I think. After removing the hub cap I found that the rubber plug that goes into the face of the plastic hub is missing. I checked the other hub and it is alright. Question is can I purchase a new plug at any auto parts store or do I have to go through Workhorse.
  8. I've done some research and my chassis manual says I have oil bath bearings. From what I can find out I have to remove the stainless steel hubcaps to see the oil level. Since I have never done this (and this may be a silly question but I read someone ruined his hubcap), how do I do this and do I have to jack the MH up or not?
  9. While I was under the motorhome greasing it I noticed the the inside of the passenger front wheel had a oily residue on it. None of the other wheels had this, so I know it's not normal. Any ideas what it might be from and what I should do to check it?
  10. I read a post on another forum about a product called Poly Glow and it had a lot of great reviews (as always there was a couple of bad reviews also). It is similar to Newglass2 but had better results according to a comparison test. Don't know who conducted the test (may have been the Poly Glow company). It is a little more expensive ($60). I am planning on trying it on my 2003 WB this spring and will let y'all know how it turns out. You can find it on Google by searching "Poly Glow". If you use it or the Newglass2 I would be interested in how you think it worked. The post did say that it would have to be redone every couple of years but it is a coating product as opposed to the mop glo solution.
  11. Finally registered my MH with with Workhorse and found that the brakes are on the recall and haven't been done. Plan on doing this before I start traveling again in the spring. I live in SE Ohio. Does anyone have an opinion on where I should go to do this. I was on the Workhorse website and the nearest place they have listed is in Columbus which is over 100 miles away. Surely there is a closer one.
  12. I live in Ohio and before I winterized my coach this winter I experienced a couple of weeks of mid 20 degree weather overnight and daytime weather in the 40s. I left the water heater on electric (since I was at home I had shore power) and set the furnace at 50 degrees and didn't have any problems. My holding tanks were drained. Most people I talked to said that if the weather didn't get below mid 20's and stay there for more then a couple of days I would be OK. Since I'm a newbie I can't tell you how long it would take to cause problems in low temps. I can tell you I went through several days of overnight temps of low 20's and day temps in the low 40's and didn't have any problems using the furnace and water heater.
  13. No, clothes aren't falling off of us but they are falling off of the clothes rod in the hanging closet. DW would like to know if there is any way to stop this. our closet runs across the width of the rear of the MH. I have contemplated adding a cover bar to rest on the top of the hangers when were in motion but figure someone has already invented something like this. If i just knew where to look.. any help or ideas would be appreciated.
  14. i do have access to 120v in my storage. i assume i have an inverter/charger as my batteries recharge when i have it hooked to shore power but i have read somewhere (probably on this forum) that i shouldn't leave the mh plugged in all winter. i was planning on doing this until i read the post somewhere. i do start the mh and the generator 1 or 2 times a month but don't actually drive anywhere. i let them run for 5 to 10 minutes. is this good and is that long enough to let them run. will that be sufficient to keep the batteries topped off?
  15. Do you need one for each battery or will one charge all three of my batteries since they are all hooked together?
  16. How many amp hours would a TV use running strictly on battery on an overnight stay without hookups? Can I expect the batteries to carry this with a few lights also, or would I need to run the generator? I'm talking about pulling into a Wal-Mart in the evening and leaving next morning.
  17. I was told by the dealer where I bought my motorhome from that it is more economical to run my roof air conditioners (heat pumps) while driving than to run the engine air conditioning. I have to run my generator to do this, which will also use fuel just like the engine air conditioning. Any opinions which method is better? I plan on taking a trip out West this summer to Yellowstone National Park and wonder which option would be the most economical
  18. Does anyone disconnect the negative cable from the batteries for winter storage? We do this to our farm tractors that we don't use over the winter and they don't seem to drain out over the winter. Is this a good idea or not? If not, how often/long should I start and run the motorhome to keep the batteries charged? I don't know what type of batteries I have until I look tomorrow. I do know they are 12-volt and there are two house batteries and a coach battery and are new from the dealer I bought the coach from. Along the same line, how long does it take and how often should I run the generator (Onan Gold series 5500) to charge the batteries when I am boondocking? I plan on taking in some NASCAR races this summer and think I will need to know this. Is it better to run the generator often for a little while or let the batteries drain and run the generator for a longer period to charge them back up fully? Or, just run the generator continuously? Did this make any sense?
  19. Thanks guys. Since my mh is a 2003 with 19.5 tires I'm assuming I have the W20 chassis which was an option offered by WB in 2003. I still plan on registering it with Workhorse so that I can download the chassis manual. Thanks for all of the help/info-- it is greatly appreciated by us newbies.
  20. What is fresh cab? I'm not familiar with this product.
  21. Thanks, I think I'll try a multiprong attack also. Will use moth balls in the basement and the bounce sheets inside. May try the oil extract o. Cotton if I can find it. Hopefully I will get lucky and keep the pesky little varmints out.
  22. Ok conflicting info. I have the 19.5 in wheels but the the sixth character in my Vin # is 6 so now do I have the w22 or the w20 chassis?
  23. Sure glad I saw this post. I was told by an FMCA member this was part of the package. Glad I haven't had to use it. Which roadside assistance is the best: Coachnet or Good Sam?
  24. What is the best way to keep varmints out of the my coach over the winter? I have heard Bounce dryer sheets in the basement and drawers and also mothballs? Anyone used these things or have any other ideas?
  25. I have a Winnebago Brave 34D that I bought used. Needless to say, none of the manuals came with it. I purchased the owners manual but no chassis manual. I want to know what Workhorse chassis I have: the W22 or the W24. The sticker weight is 27,000 lb. Where can I find the chassis info?
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