gmoreno

thanks fellas.....I'm on it. Rob

Hi all: I'm trying to hunt down an email address for one or several executives of CW. I purchased an extended warranty for a product and long story short, CW is not honoring the repair or replacement of their product. They also have referred me to Amtrust (Amtrust is presumably CW's warranty division) and I have been stone-walled. I need to send an email to someone in the CW hierarchy that can render a decision to resolve my issue. Does anyone have an email address for some executives at CW headquarters? Thanks, Rob ps. I should point out that my extended warranty is valid until November 2014.

Thor makes one. http://serrano-rv.com/ Forum from another website that chats about + and -'s of FREDS. http://rv-dreams.activeboard.com/t17948359/diesel-pusher-vs-front-engine-diesel/

Someone on this forum recommended this product to me and I swear by it. Could be the ticket for you as well. However, there was one pitfall for me while using this product - but I think it was more of a function of the toad and not the charger itself. I tow a 2003 Landrover Discovery II. Ignition switch needs to be set to the level "2" position. Doing this fires up most everything electrical on the LR. I found that the toad charger did a great job keeping the LR battery charged. The problem I encountered was when I had to tow during the night. I turned on the parking lights on the LR and drove a good 6 hours at night. The toad charger just couldn't keep up with the demands needed by the LR battery and the LR battery needed a trickle charge for a good two hours to get some juice back into the battery to turn over the LR. Not sure if you plan on any night time towing in which you too may have to turn on your parking lights on your CRV in order for traffic to see you. Also, not sure what load demands are placed on the CRV. In any event, I still sing praises with the toad charger, despite my little hiccup in towing during the night. This product could work for you too. http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html

In 2010, I paid about $1,800 for a 5 year 55k mile extended warranty through the dealer - Easy Care. My rig too was new. However, My unit is more of an entry level Class A which might explain the lower price tag when compared to your price tag.

You could try Bank Of The West based in CA. https://www.bankofthewest.com/ Not that they loan on MH older than 10 years, but they do a lot of MH and Boat financing. I've heard that MH older than 10 are indeed hard to finance. Sorry, but hope this lead helps.

Thanks fellas! If my rig doesn't sell, I may have to see about renting it out. Anyone have feedback on rental? Rob

Thanks. Need to drive the rig down to PPL. Won't give me an answer of the phone. Claim they want to conduct a thorough inspection just to make sure everything is in tip-top shape. Can't blame them, but hate to make the haul down there (from Boston) only to tell me they will give me a nickel on the dollar. Let me frame my question in another way.... Where would you look to buy an rv? What sources - other than dealer - would you consider? Thanks, Rob

Anyone have any good suggestions on best place to market my RV? I've done craiglist (Boston area) and an ad will run in the November issue of FMCA. What about RV Trader or any other sources? I've phoned a few companies that claim they will purchase your RV, but frankly, they are "scalpers." I've got a website I created, so photos of the rig viewable. Thanks for any thoughts, Rob

Bummer to hear of your woes. We've stayed at Apple Island Twice - in summer 2010 and summer 2011. Never had any issues. We found the staff to be helpful and friendly. New owner took over several years ago and constructed the huge club house with state of the art health fitness equipment. Also and in order to attract folks with kids, they really ramped up activities for the kids. Thanks for the update. Rob

Thanks Brett: NADA still the best source to price out my rig? I've used it, but my rig has three slides and the NADA website does not recognize my unit having three slides. Also, no place enter in my VIN number on the website to determine the value of my rig? Any thoughts? Rob

Our Class A is three years young and we would like to sell it. However, we do not have the title (Bank of the West). Not sure if I want to go consignment, but I could entertain the idea. Since we don't have the title, and the lender is on the West coast (we are in Boston and no lender branches in our area), how do we go about the process of completing a private sale? We're looking to break-even and not owe, so not trying to price gouge anyone. Also, we'll entertain all options from folks who have been in our same shoes of trying to sell, but not having the title in hand. Thanks, Rob

One thing to consider is to make sure that your toad (with the base plate) is as parallel to the MH hitch tow bar. Your truck may sit high enough so that you may not need a drop hitch on the back of the MH. There is at best a 3 inch variance on the Y axis and just make sure you are in this variance to minimize stress on the tow bar. In the event you do need a drop hitch, don't head to your local harbor freight store or walmart store and purchase a drop hitch. Those hitches are rated for 4k pounds od towing. You'll need to spend about $100 or more and purchase a roadmaster or blue ox drop hitch. These bad boys are rated for 10k pounds of tow strength. Rob

Hey Everyone: I have installed a blue ox base plate to my toad. I have a falcon all terrain tow bar. I have the "RM-031" adapter in order for the two products to be compatible for towing. I phoned Roadmaster inc. to confirm that I have all my ducks lined up for proper towing (of course, safety cables, aux brake, etc.) and they have assured me that all is well. They also stated that I no longer need the quick disconnect tow bar that was supplied by Roadmaster and that my tow bar, along with the rm-031 adapters attach directly to the blue ox base plate. Can anyone confirm this? Is everything safe? Of course, I made sure that base plate was attached properly and that I have used the provided safety cable that came with the tow bar. Is there anything else I need? I have a toad charger and lights are all set up. My precise question is to confirm that in fact, I no longer need the quick disconnect tow bar and that it is safe to tow. I'll also welcome any other advice for towing or set-up. I'm switching from front-wheels up to four wheels down, so just want to make sure I've got all my bases covered, and then some. Thanks, Robert

Thanks everyone for your replies. I'm going for pigtails and I found a nice hiding spot for the dingy; in an enclosed battery compartment (towing a 2003 Landrover Discovery II). Should be comfy and dry in there and therefore, the toad controller should be away from water and other hazards. To find a nice comfy dry area in the hood of the MH is not as easy for the other controller. I will be using the chassis battery and not the house batteries for this set-up and the chassis battery area can get a little wet. Oh well....we'll see. Thanks, Rob

So I have almost completed the install for a product labeled toad charge. I'd like to get some advice about the best and easiest way to set up a quick disconnect from the motorhome to the toad vehicle. In reality, I probably only need on disconnect point; from the toad. I'm thinking pig tail (if such a product exists) so that the toad wire can recoil back to the motorhome for easier storage. The wiring that came from the vendor is a 12 AWG, two strand, shielded "audio cable." Finally, how much wiring is enough length necessary between both vehicles to allow for up/down movement and side-to-side turns? 6, 7 or 8 feet? The other input I hope to receive is to determine if I should encase the wire that runs from the motorhome to the toad to protect the wire from road debris and weather. I have a Falcon All Terrain Tow Bar and located on each tow bar arm is a welded sleeve in which safety cables and such can pass through; to protect any wiring and to overall, keep cables somewhat neat and organized. The link below displays the specific toad charger I purchased, but from a different vendor. http://www.rvpowersupply.com/toadcharge.htm Thanks, Rob

Hey everyone: I have a 2003 Landrover Discovery that I intend to tow behind our 36’ Class A. My question pertains to wiring the rover for lights; meaning I will be taping the Landrover’s existing light system for brakes, turn signals, reverse (maybe?) hazards, etc. Basically, the usual stuff. OK. So here’s some background info for you about the quirks of the Landrover. My Motorhome is a flat 4 pin set-up. 1. Can’t use a battery slice or pull a fuse with the rover. Doing so will activate an “SRS” alarm in the Rover and could disable the vehicle permanently. 2. Rover has separate turn and stop lights (3 wire system) . 3. Rover’s ignition needs to be in the “II” position when being towed and therefore, concerned about battery drain 4. Rover has a European pin set-up for towing 5. Concerned about backfeeding the Rover. 6. I have an extended warranty on the Rover and I need to be careful about splicing wires and such. If I do encounter an electrical problem with the rover and it can be proved that I have tampered with the wiring circuits, my extended warranty will not recover the cost of the repair and could be void altogether. 7. I’d like to avoid using magnetic lights if at all possible. 8. Don’t want to drill holes in the existing tail lights of the Rover to accommodate a separate bulb configuration. Three links below to convert the Rover’s European trailer set-up to US Standard 4 pin set-up. I’ll also need a diode set-up, right? So, which product is the correct product? I’m open for other set-ups as well. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9439C.cfm http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Land+Rover/Discovery+II/2003/56146KIT.html?vehicleid=20031173873 http://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/Roadmaster/RM-154.html The site below is what I will use to attempt to keep the Rover’s battery charged. http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html OK Fellas, chime in and let me know your thoughts. One last quick note. I’m not at all savvy about setting up my Rover as a toad; meaning I don’t have much mechanical or electrical skill. I was hoping for a “plug n’ go” option and maybe take the Rover to a mechanic to connect everything and for any splicing of wires. And just as a reminder, I have an extended warranty on the Rover and don’t want to null and void the warranty if wire splicing is needed. Thanks, Rob

Well I guess you took me literally when I asked for other ideas or suggestions when you mentioned we should move to AZ and use the coach year 'round! Love that area, though mostly in the winter. Living in AZ can be mighty hot and muggy, especially in the Tucson-Phoenix area. Lived in Phoenix for a while, but prefer Sedona and Flaggstaff. I'm orginally from El Paso, so I now the S.W. area fairly well. Thanks for the good chuckle! Rob

Hey Everyone: I have plenty of room on my property to store my RV for winter (yea, I know it's spring now, but would like clarification for my unique circumstance). The problem is that it would be tucked away and resting on some grass. A friend of mine pointed out to me that if I do this, the grass below when wet or moist will act as a sponge and will rust out the bottom of the rig sooner when compared to storing the rig on concrete or ashpalt. He further suggested that I have the storage area packed with a fair amount of pea gravel to prevent or at least minimize premature underbody rust on the rug. So here are my questions: 1. Is he correct? Parking a rig on grass is a major no-no? 2. Pea gravel should be applied over the grass to stop/minimize moisture escape to the belly of the Rig? 3. Can I lay a very large tarp over the grass and park my rig on top if it? Will the tarp be just as effective as a psuedo-pad site? 4. I have a large cover for the rig so that pine needles and such don't drop on the rig. I have a 36' Class A. 5. I live just north of Boston. We typically winterize our rig from late fall to mid-April. Needless to say, our winters are cold and long, laden with snow. Open to other advice and suggestions. Thanks, Rob

Sure on the photos. I'm rather embarrased about it because the wound is probably no larger than an inch or two, with another wound about one inch. I'll try and get the photos to you Tuesday. Light Sprinkles tonight and early Tuesday a.m. Thanks for replying. Rob

Was on my home a few days ago and some tree branches rubbed against the driver's side body, near the roof. Turns out that the branches tore some of the vinyl swirls. Good news is that the vinyl swirls did not completly peel off, so it looks like I can reattatch the swirls. So my question is what is recommnended to affix the small flayling vinyl swirl back to the coach? I'm in Boston so a bit cold up here (40s and low 50s now). However, I have some room on my property to swing the coach around from where it is currently stationed so that the damaged side of the coach can warm up while facing the south sun, in the event that whatever remedy is needed can be applied onto a warm surface. Thanks, Rob

We used to tow my wife's Mini-cooper on a dolly (CVT tranny). I'm a young feller, so not a big deal to bend over and tie down the wheel straps etc. I was probably overly cautious and also used chains on the front axle and attached them to the dolly. Did it for three years. Sold the Mini cooper and purchased another vehicle in which I can tow 4-down. Mind you, I have not yet towed 4-down, so I don't know how much longer it will take to attach the toad to the back of the rig vs. dolly. What I can tell you is that with the chains, and all the bouncing the mini cooper took while towing, the chains inevitably binded. And upon arriving to our destination, I always had to finagle a way to undo the bound chains. Also, I would make several stops on a journey and would always have to cinch the straps one or two more "clicks." Seems with all the bouncing and left/right turns, the straps would stretch and become slightly loose. I suspect towing 4-down also has it quirks as well. Making sure your aux. brake is working, toad battery drain, not being able to back up with the toad still attached to your rig, adding mileage to your toad, etc. So, both methods have their respective + and -'s. But what I have noticed is that most of the rigs we see on the road, by far I see way more 4-down toads than I do front wheels up and for that matter, 4 wheels up. Just because I saw alot of 4-down toads, didn't convince me to sell the mini. We needed a larger car because we are a family of four and a couple of dogs. Wanted to take the dogs with us to some excursions once we arrived to our destination. Cooper simply wasn't big enough to do this. Also, I was also just getting tired of the hassle of loading and unloading. Let's see if the grass is greener on the other side once I start towing 4-down. Rob

Purchased our 36' Damon Daybreak brand new in 2010, gas, V-10. Purchased Ford Motor Company warranty -Easy Care - at the time of purchase through the dealer. I think it added $1700 to the sale price. Good for 55k miles or 7 years, whichever occurs first. Glad I did. No major failures, but small stuff that has added up and I have now gotten my $1700 back for assorted repairs over the past three years. I have a $50 co-pay, per visit. I have been very happy with Easy Care and pretty much a "no questions" asked when it came to getting work done. So, I can only speak to my satisfaction with Easy Care. I've heard Good Sam Warranty is very good, but I don't know. I would look into both and see what makes sense to you. Rob

We've made plans for a five day stay a nice campground in Montreal. We are traveling with two kids and two dogs. Kids are 7 and 4. 36' Class A with a Toad. We recently bumped into a couple about our age (40s, non-rv'ers or campers) who told us to reconsider Montreal. Bluntly stated, they mentioned that Montreal was very seedy. This couple has one child, 8 years of age. When asked to elaborate, they mentioned that the city was dirty, residents seemed dirty, didn't feel safe, and overall just didn't seem nice. I realize these descriptors are very vague, so I really can't tell you, the readers, anything much more. The couple we bumped into are very nice, not stuffy, both post college educated. So, source reliability is strong. Furthermore, their only child and our eldest - again, both near the same age - took ballet lessons together, play dates, both attended chinese language school, etc. So, we have every reason to NOT believe this couple in their assessment of Montreal. Needless to say because of their experience, we are now very apprehensive in moving forward with our five day stay in Montreal. Can anyone confirm their observations? Should we be concerned? Any other info about Montreal would be helpful. Now, about Ottawa. This couple did mention that Ottawa would be a much better place to visit. In fact, this couple stayed in Ottawa last year for three days, but they were very sad to leave because thier three day stay was not enough. incidently, they will be traveling back to Ottawa for a five day stay next month. Are we better off going to Ottawa vs. Montreal? If so, any recommendations for campgrounds? Can't seem to find anything! And just as a reminder, we have two young kids with us, so when replying, kindly consider your feedback from the vantage point of traveling with two kids, Thanks, Rob

Brett: Thanks for tutor lesson. Rob