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five

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Posts posted by five


  1. 5 hours ago, obedb said:

    Had a Series 60 Detroit in my last truck. Knew several owner operators that also owned them. Not a complaint one.

    Do you know what the difference is between a DD 500 and a Series 60?  There is very little info on the DD 500, had a very hard time simply tracking down an oil filter.


  2. You can also use the shadows of the vehicles...depending on where the sun is.  After my second VN tour (as a helicopter pilot, first was on the ground), I started fixed wing training.  One old crusty instructor told me one way to be sure you are clear of other aircraft when taxiing is to watch the shadows on the ground.  If the wing's shadow on our aircraft is not going to hit the shadow of the other aircraft, we were clear.


  3. 1 hour ago, pjfromny said:

    ...I checked the hitch, and it is rated for 10k#.  I checked our truck, and it is good for flat towing...

     

    There is more to towing than the hitch rating:

    Tow rating is the lower of:
     
    1.  Coach's hitch rating.
     
    2.  Coach tow rating.
     
    3.  Chassis tow rating (sometimes different than the coach's).
     
    4.  The difference in weight between the coach's GCWR and the coach's actual weight when ready to tow.

  4. Some of the information above is not pertinent for all coaches, thus not correct for the OP and others.  It seems all manufacturers have a different method of charging batteries.  I've posted this before, but for clarification, I'll do it again...this is how my batteries are charged...or not charged:

    - When plugged into shore power. Coach batteries are charged. When that charge reaches 13.3, the coach batteries let the charge pass through and the chassis batteries are charged as long as that charge rate is 13.3 or higher.

    - When driving. Chassis batteries are charged. When that charge reaches 13.3, the chassis batteries let the charge pass through to the coach batteries and they are charged as long as the charge rate is 13.3 or higher.

    It might not make sense, but that's how it works.

  5. Thanks for the input.  When we got a new toad, Nov 14, had a dealer hook up the wiring and put on the base plate.  Never has worked right.  In the middle of our last trip, all lights on the toad quit working.  Tested the MH plug, it was fine.  Took the cover off the tail lights and saw a wire dangling.  Secured it, drove the toad behind the MH (pull through parking), hooked it up, everything worked.  When it came time to leave that CG, we were caravaning with friends.  Never even got out of the CG before he called and said the passenger side lights were all out...running, turn and stop.  Took both toad rear lights off, all appears to be secure.  One suggestion we got was to add a bulb to each tail light, hook up appropriate wiring and make the lights work like that.  Haven't done anything as yet, other than check to see that all wires are secure.


  6. Joe, some of my "Mom and Pop" comments may have been confusing.  When in the MH looking for a M & P...it's a big rig M & P.  All are drive through (no unhooking the toad), easy in easy out, no over head limits and sell lots of fuel.  In my part of the country there are lots of big rig fuel stops that are not Pilot/FJ or Loves. 


  7. It's pretty bad when we have to try to outsmart a battery.:D  Last week I got a new charger to carry in the MH if I ever need it for one reason or another.  It says it can handle all types of batteries...AGM, GEL and wet cell.  I just have to press the correct button...AGM in my case.


  8. 7 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

    .... Do NOT use a standard automotive charger long term, as they can overcharge the batteries and destroy them...

    As usual, lots of good advice from Brett.  Point of clarification on the chargers.  Get one that will automatically shut off when the batteries are fully charged...then it won't damage them.

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