hermanmullins
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Posts posted by hermanmullins
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Lots of questions-- let's start with how the batteries are wired.The chassis batteries (two 12 VDC batteries) are wired in PARALLEL. That is positive of battery #1 to positive of battery #2 to house positive. Negative of battery #1 to negative of battery #2 to house negative/ground.
House batteries (4-6 VDC batteries): Each pair of 6 VDC batteries is wired in SERIES to make "a 12 VDC battery in two cases". So House positive is wired to positive of battery #1. Negative of battery #1 is wired to positive of battery #2 and negative of battery #2 is wired to house negative/ground. Since you have two PAIRS of these, each PAIR is wired in parallel.
There is no way we can tell you where your charging system is failing without more information. Make sure the inverter/charger's breakers (on the 120 VAC breaker panel) are on. Make sure the resettable breaker on the inverter/charger (some inverters have them external, some internal) is ON/RESET.
Next, before plugging into shore power, measure voltage at the house battery with a digital voltmeter. Plug in and verify that the voltage rises-- unless batteries are deeply discharged, voltage should rise to 13.2 14.5 VDC. If it does not, check voltage at the inverter/charger.
And some coaches have both battery banks wired so they are charged by the inverter/charger, others are wired so that only the house batteries are charged by the inverter/charger. If the latter, you will need a trick l start, Echo charger, etc to charge the chassis batteries.
And, indeed, it is bad for a diesel engine to be started UNLESS you can drive it enough highway miles to get the oil (not just coolant) up to operating temperature. Anything less just adds a lot of moisture to the crankcase.
Brett
Great explanation on the wiring.
Brett, if this member is having both the house and the coach batteries going dead, it seems there has to be some sort of drag on them and his inverter is not keeping up or not working. If there is something dragging down both batteries down he might also have a bad isolator. The only thing on should be the radio/clock. When we had a drag on the battery (years ago) we would pull the fuse for the radio & clock. Remove the positive cable and jump between the post & cable. If it shows voltage, begin to remove fuses one at a time until the voltage drops to zero. Check what that fuse powers and correct the problem.
I like the idea of checking to voltage without power to the coach and then with power to see if the inverter is charging.
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thomasalter,
Do you have a smart wheel? (cruse control/wiper and so forth on your steering wheel). If so check out your controller in your electrical service area. I had a similar problem and found burnt wires going to the box. I got my replacement from the mfg. of the Smart Wheel. Since the two leads that were burnt were power in leads I put inline fuses on each. I found mine while looking for a bad relay and noticed the burnt connection. Replaced controller added the fuses and now 2 years later no problem.
Click on: "Tech Support". Look at the SM 209 or SM 210 unit. The J-12 plug was the one that was burnt.
Hope this helps.
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I was told by the dealer where I bought my motorhome from that it is more economical to run my roof air conditioners (heat pumps) while driving than to run the engine air conditioning. I have to run my generator to do this, which will also use fuel just like the engine air conditioning.Any opinions which method is better? I plan on taking a trip out West this summer to Yellowstone National Park and wonder which option would be the most economical
Woodlodge,
Welcome to the forum.
Many folks use a curtain behind the driver when using the dash ac to keep cool. Of course if you have passengers you might need additional cooling (gen and roof ac). I feel that our comfort overrides the MPG.
You will love Yellowstone!!
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Herman,Wish that were true. But there are many manual transmission vehicles that the manufacturers have deemed as NOT towable 4 wheels down. All Mazdas for example.
Please do refer to the FMCA website Hermann mentioned for list of vehicles approved by their manufacturer.
Could some that are not on the list be towable-- sure. The manufacturer could even say they are not towable to avoid the liability even though mechanically they can be towed.
The VW MAY fall into that category.
Brett
Understood. I looked up VW Beetles from 1970 thru 2008 with Blue Ox, and although it is not listed as towable they do make base plates for the Beetle.
I feel as you do that VW does not want the liability. But like everyone I have seen many being towed, to the beach, the deer lease and Rallies.
Keep up your good work.
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Can anyone tell me if it is ok to pull an VW Beetle or Golf, standard shift all 4 wheels down? And do this without adding transmission pumps for oil circulation? TomWelcome to the Forum. There should be no problem pulling any standard shift transmission auto.
1) Check the FMCA dingy towing guides. There, you can find your year auto and look for your make.
2) Check the Web for Tow Bars and Base plates.
3) Have it installed buy someone that is familer with tow bars and RV's.
4) Then Hook UP and go RVing.
Happy Traveling tsmithers
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One other factor is rear axles. Single or double. Will tag axle rise to help turning. I look forward to a lot of the answers to this question.
Regards
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Had the drive shaft disconnect installed at Drive Shaft King in Dallas, Texas last Thursday... David took us to the golf course down the street where we played a round and then he picked us up gave us a quick school and sent us on our way... THANKS for your comments and ideas.Glad to be of help. I have a small lower lobe in my heart for Okies, my wife is from Afton, OK. However I have had her down in TEXAS for more then 46 years +.
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Can any one tell me how to access the fan for the dash heater /defroster/ ac? The fan quit working and I can't seem to find out how to get to the fan..Williamhorn, I had a 1992 Windsor and had problems with my fan. It was not a fuse, bad switch or fan it was a loose ground connection on the fan. Under your dash panel in front of the passengers seat there is a panel. If I remember right there are several screws that hold the panel up under the right side of the dash just inside the door. After you remove the panel feel up to the fan motor. there is a ground lug where the fan connects to the housing. Check for a loose connector. After replacing the ground several times I got pliers and put a little pressure on the connector where it would stay on the lug.
If you need more help send me a message with a number I can reach you and I will be glad to help you. It is a little hard to describe in writing but easy in words.
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I fully understand the need for regulations and inspections, I really do.Now picture this. You have a bag of Beneful dog food that you purchased before going on your trip. The Beneful dog food bag has a wonderful self locking zip top for easy re-storage. No need to roll it up and put clothspins on it or set something on top of the closure. It is really wonderful.
So, you are on your trip in a foreign land and the Beneful runs out. No problem, "Ol Bandit" dog food will suffice until we get to a place we can replenish the Beneful. Hey! Let's just reuse the Beneful bag since it is so nice. We pour the Ol Bandit into the Beneful bag, throw the Ol Bandit bag in a proper trash container and we are on our way home.
I wonder if the taste the dog food when they check it!!
Some regulations are not worth the paper they are written on. I'm glad I'm honest and I'd report and throw away the dog food upon request of the authorities. (If they asked me to)
By the way Wayne, HAPPY BIRTHDAY and Semper Fi.
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If you are in the Texas area you might call North Texas RV in Denton, TX. Ken has a paint booth that can accommodate any size RV and they do very good work.
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Attempted to reach the President of Remco and could not... so I sent Alan D. Cohoon (who is listed on the web site as President) an email... received an email from the Sales Manager who stated Al has not been there in 3 years... he remembered taking my order in September and the back ordered parts came in yesterday... my drive line is 1 of 40 currently being completed... then I received a call from another sales rep that stated the back ordered parts came in on Friday and it should be built and shipped by this Friday...I will keep you posted...
There is a place in Dallas, "Drive Shaft Knig", that will make you a disconnect while you wait. If you don't have any better luck with Remco, Google "Drive Shaft King Dallas, TX". If you have a steel drive shaft they will modify your shaft, but if you have an aluminum shaft they will make you a new drive shaft. I know, an OKIE coming to TEXAS for help, But what the hay, if you don't tell, I wont tell.
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I have the Blue Ox Tow Bar and base plates on my Dynasty & GMC Yukon.
I Have the M & G Engineering Brake system. It works on your air brakes.
Check out M & G at http://www.m-gengineering.com/
Great system. New unit has life time warranty, Remfg. has 5 yr. warranty.
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Vibrations:1) If you feel a vibration in your steering wheel the cause is coming from the front end. ie, Balance, Shocks, Bent Rim, etc.
2) If you feel a vibration in your seat the cause is coming from the rear end. ie, Balance, Shocks, Bent Rims, Drive Line, etc.
When you have the tires rebalanced that is when the bent rims could be checked.
Drive line needs a good technision.
Good luck, However if you can't solve your problem just think how much fuel you will stay by driving under 55.
Bret, Don & Herman are all wondering if you got the coach checked out and found the vibration?
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Does the F450 have twin I beams? If so air bags in the front coils will help. There is some one looking for RV parks in Deming, NM. Check on one of those sites, go to Deming and visit Steer Safe. The Factory is there and you can have them installed by the best. I had mine installed by the camping store where I bought them. I saw no difference. When in Deming I went to the factory. They redid the Steer Safe and then I noticed quite a difference.
Good luck, stay safe and keep it between the lines.
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Lagoons RV Resort in Rockport. (www.lagoonsrv.com) Don't miss the Fulton Mansion.
Great Food all around. Check out the lunch at the BIG FISHERMAN. Prices you wont find anywhere.
Have fun on our beautilful coast.
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I have never had the all electric problem. Here are just some of my thought when I read your post.
You would need a large group of 6 volt Batteries(4+)
Large Inverters.I have seen coaches with 2 4K inverters.
Auto start Gen. is an option when buying your new coach.
Quite time when other coaches are close by.
Always have full fuel tanks when camping. A full power load can cause the Gen to burn 1+ gal/hr of fuel.
How about some others out there. Any ideas?
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Vibrations:
1) If you feel a vibration in your steering wheel the cause is coming from the front end. ie, Balance, Shocks, Bent Rim, etc.
2) If you feel a vibration in your seat the cause is coming from the rear end. ie, Balance, Shocks, Bent Rims, Drive Line, etc.
When you have the tires rebalanced that is when the bent rims could be checked.
Drive line needs a good technician.
Good luck, However if you can't solve your problem just think how much fuel you will stay by driving under 55.
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Which is the more preferred method? Separate lights in the Tail light housing, or Diodes using the Stock Tail/Stop/Turn lights?Diodes on three different TOADS. Never one problem. Easy to install. Go for it.
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I had to replace both chassis batteries that were less then 1 year old. At the same time, I replaced all four of my six-volt batteries. At this time I had a bright idea. I got BRASS flat washers and BRASS wing nuts. I took all connections off and cleaned the lugs with a "Flap Wheel" in my drill (I made sure there was no corrosion anywhere). I put on a Brass Flat Washer, then the cleaned Lug, then another Brass Flat Washer and then the Brass Wing nut on. I did this on all battery connections. I then sprayed the terminals with some protected I got at the autoparts store. Since that time (2 years ago) I have not had to put in any water in any of the batteries and they stay fully charged.
I just wanted to pass this on to anyone that might be interested.
(Please don't hate me if I missed spelled some words.)
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Thanks for the info I will search today when I get off work. Also good point on the number of vehicles vs coaches, I hadn't thought of that. Duh? Well good thing I don't claim to be intelligent. Haha!Vic
Welcome to the Forum.
Vic, take your broken hinge to a good welder and have him TIG weld(Heli-Arc) the hinge together. Grind it smooth, good as new. You can put it in the middle so it wont have as much strain on it. I have no doubt that the welded hinge will be as strong as new. After you get this repair done you can search the wed for a salvage yard to find one (Buy two if they arn't too much). I did notice that both of the frame sides of the hinge were broke. Question, do you have some sort of stop to prevent the door from opening too fast with the wind? Also look at the brake. Are there both bright and dark spots on the brake. If so the hinge may have been cracked for some time and just finaly gave way. You might inspect the other two hinges to check for cracking.
Good luck, Hold on to that Door and Happy RVing.
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We are going to replace our motor home bedroom TV with an HD one. We were told at Camping World yesterday that we shouldn't just go to Best Buy, but purchase a TV made especially for RV's at about twice the price because they are built to withstand the bouncing and are sealed to protect against condensation. I would appreciate hearing your experiences and thoughts.The one thing I have been told is that an LCD TV is better for and RV then a Plasma TV. Maybe one of the tech heads out there cab explain why.
Our coach has two Sony TV's. I have the same TV at our farm and both work well on the same Dish Receiver (I switch it back and forth between the Two).
I think whatever TV you are comfortable with is the one you should go for.
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I want to share this info from Bev King, Chapter Secretary :It's here! We now have a web page for our chapter!
Go to: http://www.militaryvets-fmca.com surf the page and find the Guest
book. Please sign the Guest book.
Be sure to "Bookmark" it.
If you have any questions or suggestions,
contact the WEBMASTER: Jerry King
E-Mail: dd694@verizon.net
You can't sign the guest book if you can't read the code. I tried at least 5 or 6 times no LUCK.
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From Evans-Tempcon:http://www.evanstempcon.com/tsg_guidelines.php
Air Temperature (F) Entering A/C Unit Inlet - Outlet Air Temperature Differential**
FRESH OR RECIRCULATED----LOW HUMIDITY---------- HIGH HUMIDITY
50------------------------------------------------5-10-----------5-10
60------------------------------------------------10-20----------0-15
70------------------------------------------------20-25----------5-20
80------------------------------------------------25-30---------20-25
90------------------------------------------------25-35---------20-30
100-----------------------------------------------30-35---------25-30
110-----------------------------------------------35-40---------30-35
** The outlet louver closest to the A/C unit usually discharges the coldest air. The warmest inlet air temperature (fresh or recirculated) should also be used for the Differential calculation.
Good chart Brett. Aw for the days of R-12 and the Harrison Compressors.
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Try the following company.
MCD RV Innovations
800-804-1757
410 Industrial Blvd.
McKinney, TX 75069
www.mcd-rv.com
They make and install all kinds shades for RVs. They might have something for you that might work.
I beleive they will be in Redmond.
Falling Clothes
in General Discussion
Posted · Report reply
Just carry a lot of hanging cloths so that they can't sway back and forth. I have traveled for many years (by car) in my job. My cloths rod in the back of my SUV let my cloths slide back and forth both blocking my rear view and droping them. I have done several things: I have put rubber rings on the rod in several places so the hangers can more very little. I have put rubber bands on the rod for the same purpose. I have seen plastic tubes that are ribbed that go over the rod for the purpose of stopping the hangers from sliding. A bungee cord pulled tight over the rod might hold the hangers from jumping off also.
Good luck and keep your clothes on (the rod).