Kevin510

Heres a pic. I am assuming its the P chassis.

It has the 8.1 engine. I have no idea what chassis it is. Its a 32 foot rig if that helps narrow it. Anywhere I could look to get a definite answer?

Thanks for the tip. I will start checking all the relays and see if I can find something.

It is the Chevy chassis. I did some more tinkering today. I managed to get under the steering column. I found a burnt butt connector. There is a fairly large gauge white wire coming from the top of the steering column into the butt connector. You can see where it shorted inside the connector. But there is no wire coming out the other side. No dangling wires either. No other evidence of burns or shorts. The only thing I did notice is that possibly the wire that was originally in the burnt connector, is now spliced into another wire. But it is pink so I have no idea. It is obvious that a previous owner has really rigged this thing up.

I picked up a 2004 Georgetown mh a few months ago. I primarily wanted to use this at a local lake as my 5er is a tad to long to get where we wanted to go. I enjoy working on RV's and thought I was pretty good at it until recently. As I said, I picked the unit up about 4 hours away from home. Drove it home with no problems. It sat for a while while I did some work to it. I drove it around town to get it inspected etc. with no problems. We took it to the lake a few weeks ago and when we stopped to get gas it would not start again. I would turn the key and the starter would engage for a split second......and then nothing. I tried this a few times and after about 10 minutes it fired up like usual. We got to the lake and camped for a week. When time to come home it fired right up. Now it wont start again. I can turn the key on, then crawl under it and jump across the starter and it fires right up. I had the starter rebuilt with a new solenoid today. Still doing the same thing. Replaced the batteries and that didnt help either. I am at a loss and am hoping that someone out there might have some insight as to what is causing this.

The Norcold in our 2005 Country Star DP is not cooling at all. It will not work on AC or propane. The front panel will not light up and acts like its not getting any power. I took off the outside cover and there is a black box that has a red light and the light is on. The box has 4 wires going into it. Anyone ever experienced this or know what the problem is. We are currently on a trip and are having to scramble to get coolers for our food. Thanks in advance. Kevin

So if I am understanding you. Your upgraded trans automatically downshifts when slowing down or going down a grade? My trans does this as well. Does that mean that the computer in mine has been upgraded?

They also make a duel reciever that you put in the coaches hitch. It then gives you 2 2" receivers. One for the toad and one for bike rack. It would by far be the cheapest route if it would work for your application.

I think you will be alright. Mine cleared with no problems so I would think that the 2 bike rack would be ok to. And your right. Ours would have worked if we would've had a lower toad. Good luck.

That makes me feel better to know that my mpg is some what normal. We havent used this one long enough to really guage our overall mpg. Especially while towing. And your right about one thing, regardless of mpg, we are just going to use it as often as possible.

I am not sure I understand what you mean by a "payback down the road" I was referring to the Banks system and its cost to benefit ratio. Not the cost of the rig its self.

I was going to try this set up as well but found that I was going to have turning clearance issues. If I was to turn to sharp, our Jeep would hit the bike rack but I also have the XCT-4 which may stick out quite a bit further than your 2 bike set up.

The clutch fan is working as it should. I was just joking about how loud the thing is, but your right Richard, it gets even louder when the clutch fan engages. I did run some injector cleaner through when I first got it but it was the cheapest stuff I could find. I think I will try for a little better quality product and pull some plugs in a few days to see if they fouled. I am still considering the Banks system but the more I read, the less I am inclined to get it. Most of the reviews I have read state that the power gains are good but economy gains are minimal. According to the Banks site, the power pack can add a bunch of power, but only about a 1/2 mpg gain. It would take a LOT of driving to off set that $3000 price tag.

For what its worth, I owned 3 on the Ford chassis and currently own a 03 Newmar on a Workhorse. I would be pleased with either and would focus more on finding a coach that fits your needs best and has the best floorplan.

Thanks for the input Bill. I am really considering a Banks system. And I got you on the driving in top gear. That is why I drive about 62 mph. If I drive any slower, it will downshift right into 3rd at about 4500 rpm and it sounds like a jet taking off. I am just going to slow down a bit more and try pulling something that weighs a bit less than our Jeep and see if that makes a difference.

I am on the W-22 with a 26,000 lb. gcwr. The jeep actually weighs 5047 lbs. with a full tank of fuel. But we always plan to pull it with only about a half tank at the very most. I will have to take them both out to some scales to be totally sure but by my calculations, we are sitting around 24,500 lbs. with the jeep connected.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I do use the cruise until it comes time to climb a hill. I also figure the weight of my toad has a lot more to do with it. I looked it up and the Jeep weighs about 5200 lbs. I had been considering selling it to either go to a diesel or something smaller but I guess I will keep it for a while longer and try some different speeds. I am also going to try and pull my parents CRV on the next trip and see if that makes a difference. It weighs about 2000lbs. less than the jeep. I am also going to check the odometer the next time I get it out. What do you guys think about changing the plugs? I doubt that they have ever been changed and I have about 55k miles on them. Any other ideas are welcome. Does anyone know if they make a tuner for this chassis?

Hi everyone. I finally got to take my rig out on a pretty long trip and was surprised by the mpg that I got. It is a 2003 Newmar Scottsdale on a Workhorse chassis. It is 37' 9" and weighs about 19,500 lbs. with us in it. We pulled our Jeep Commander on a 2,200-mile trip a few weeks ago. When we left Amarillo, we had to fight a terrible head and cross wind (about 50 mph). We drove east to OKC trying to drive anywhere from 55 to 70 mph to find that "sweet spot" where the coach wouldn't have to downshift to fight the wind and slight hills. We fueled in OKC and got about 4.6 mpg. I wasn't totally surprised by this due to the wind. We continued our travels east to Nashville, Tn. I drove most of the trip at 65 mph but did try to slow down for a few tanks but it didn't seem to help. The best I could get was 5.5 mpg. The best I have ever gotten was 6.9 from Amarillo to Okmulgee, OK. driving about 62 to 65 mph. It has a brand-new air filter. The exhaust seems to be okay and not clogged or anything like that. No foul smell like a clogged catalytic converter. There is no check engine light and the engine seems to run great. It has plenty of power, never gets hot or misses. About the only thing it has ever done is have a low idle at times but that seems to have cleared up recently. Is this normal for a rig of this size? Is there anything I can do to get some better mpg? I am not expecting a lot, but I think that 5.5 is a bit low. Any and all thought are welcome. Thanks

X2 with Herman. We have spent many, many summers in this area. Especially Fun Valley which is just west of Southfork.

Hi rprphillips, and welcome. My dad tows a 2003 Explorer Sport Trac behind his DP. His is also a 4x4. About 4 years back he had one of the local Ford dealerships install the neutral switch. I think at the time is cost him about $150 for the switch and the install. He has been pulling it ever since 4 wheels down with no problems. I am not sure of the exact procedure that he does through to get it in neutral, but it only takes him a few seconds after hooking up. The only thing to keep in mind is to start your Explorer and let it run for a few minutes when ever you stop for fuel etc. Ford did not advise him on this but it is always a good idea. I do it on our Jeep even though it says you don't have to. I think its cheap insurance. As far as the towing equipment. There are many good options. I personally use a Blue Ox Aventa 2. It is the kind that stays on the coach when you unhook. I am sure others will chime in with their opinions and expertise. Kevin

LMS1943, are you looking for more MPGs or more horsepower? Another option to throw out there is to have someone put a custom tune in ECM(computer). Can gain a whole lot of horsepower and even more torque. Mpgs usually go up if you can keep your foot out of it

Herman, I guess I should have stated that you do have to dilute it down about %50 with water. Running straight anti-freeze will harm ones cooling system over time. You can buy this already diluted for about $2 cheaper per gallon, but then you are only getting a half gallon of coolant and half gallon of water and paying almost the same for a full gallon of straight coolant. Just doesn't make sense to me?? You can always pre mix it your self and then carry it until you need it to avoid having to do it "in the heat of the moment".

bnibarg, Do you have a brand that you use? Where do you get it?

Hey Brett. Thanks for the help. I contacted HWH and they were great. Figured the problem out and it wasn't the springs. Saved me a couple hundred dollars in the process. Absolutely awesome customer service. Thanks again. Kevin

x2 with Herman. I would almost guarentee that its the heat.