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    Ottawa, Canada
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    Travel, boats, music
  1. Have you had a 'water test' done on your rig ? A good RV body shop can install a temporary entry door with a high pressure fan - the rig is pressurized, and the outside is checked for air leaks. If air can get out, water can get in. I have our rig tested each spring when it comes out of storage - the small cost can save a lot in the long run.
  2. Some (if not most) Lippert (LCI) hydraulic pumps have an 'over-ride' valve on the end of each cylinder. It is intended to allow a jack to be retracted after a pump failure. There is a slot in the face of the valve to allow it to be turned 'open' (manual retract) or 'closed' - normal pump operation. If one or more valves are open, the jacks (and slide hydraulics) will behave erratically The LCI manual has good diagrams of their pumps to show where the valves are. Turn them gently to determine if they are open or closed (the manual will show the correct direction of rotation for 'open' and 'closed'. They move easily, and can be damaged if over-torqued. When I purchased our '08 Daybreak (used) the jacks were not operating correctly when I was checking out the unit. The dealer 'fixed' the problem after we left. Thereafter, my jacks worked - but behaved strangely. If I manually extended the front jacks, the rears would start to descend when the fronts were about half way down. If I manually ran the rears - the fronts would start down first, stop after about 2" of extension, then the rears would extend properly. I thought I didn't understand how jacks were supposed to operate, but it didn't make sense to my theory of how they 'should' operate. Read the manual (what a thought !) - discovered the part about the 'over-ride' valves. Checked - all 4 were wide open. That's how the dealer 'fixed' the problem. I closed the valves. It works in practice so now it passes the test of theory. Really nice system when it is working properly. Just remember to follow the manual procedures for 'zeroing' out the leveling system if the battery has been disconnected. The control module can lose its memory of 'flat'. Wayne
  3. If the light appears to be mounted in a rubber grommet - it is. If the red lens is 4" across, the light is a standard truck light available at any truck service shop. The light is actually a sealed-beam unit - there is no bulb to replace in them - you buy a complete unit. It can be removed by gently prying the grommet out of the mounting hole. New LED versions are available - I just replaced my stop/signal lights with the LED units - for $12 each. They should last the lifetime of my Daybreak.
  4. wdterry

    Slideout Lubes

    Gunk sells a graphite spray with a solvent carrier. The solvent evaporates and leaves a nice graphic lube. Doesn't attract dirt....
  5. Have a 36' Daymon Daybreak, no toad. On a trip last fall Ottawa - Lake Superior and back - averaged 8.4 according to a Scanguage. Fully loaded weight on the trip was 300 lb under GVWR. Speed kept about 55 avg., fuel was 89 octane.
  6. Our Daymon Daybreak just returned from BGM Autobody in Metcalfe, Ontario. Superb work repairing some gouges in the exterior panels - the repainted area is undetectable. A 'water intrusion test' identified 4 areas of intrusion - the remedial action they took will save us thousands in delamination repair. I can not recommend their service highly enough to any coach or trailer owner in Eastern Ontario.
  7. Pacific Dualies in California provides excellent customer service and product support. A Pressure+ TPMS I bought last spring operated erratically. I contacted Pacific Dualies - they suggested some diagnostic steps - no change. A second contact was no quibble, no hassle - "Here's an RMA - send it back". I just received a call from them - a new unit is on its way. No questions or issues - just great support of the product. I recommend them highly.
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