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wildebill308

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Posts posted by wildebill308

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome to the forum. Please add more info on your coach in your signature it makes it easier to give good answers

    I would think you could get your annual done at nearly any big truck maintenance facility.

    I do my own maintenance so I haven’t had to find someone to do the work. Hear are a couple of links you might find useful.

    http://www.maxxforce.com/Dealers

    http://www.speedco.com/index.php

    You could get it done at Camping World but I am not a big fan.

    Bill

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Andy,

    Not trying to miss lead you. I don’t have a Monaco product-- see my signature. I bought my tank from the local Freightliner shop. I don’t remember the exact price but it was around$150.00. The problem with the plastic tanks is they are not supposed to be exposed to sunlight. The sun shines right on mine through the lovers in the back. I am going to make a cover that will shade it and hopefully protect it.

    Mine was a direct replacement. Had to move the sensor from the old one to the new one but not that big of a deal.

    You might look at some of the web sites catering to big trucks. Many carry parts at a discount.

    Bill

  8. Posted · Report reply

    You might consider going to the local junk yard and getting a set of 16 in rims for your motor home. You can find many tires that are the same rolling diameter and load range much cheaper than trying to find 17.5 tires. Any good yard will have rims that will fit and be the right load range.

    If you really want to find 17.5 tires try hear

    http://www.ricksontruckwheels.com/tires-175-truck.php

    I could only find 1 Yokahama.

    http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/detail/ry103

    Bill

  10. Posted · Report reply

    You can get a lot of good info on your transmission from the website “my transmission” go to the Allison site and enter your serial number. You can find out lots of good info on your transmission such as part numbers for filter kits and capacities.

    http://www.allisontr...ioninformation/

    I recommend you use the transcend fluid. And go by the General duty cycle. The web site http://www.allisontransmission.com/servlet/DownloadFile?Dir=publications/pubs&FileToGet=SA5429EN.pdf

    States if *General Vocation: All vocations not classified as Severe.

    **Severe Vocation: 2000 MH, On/Off Highway, Refuse, City Transit and and Shuttle Transit.

    You have a 1000MH so it would fall under General Vocation.

    The Allison Transmission maintenance schedules stipulate that fluid/filters should be changed after the recommended mileage, months, or hours have elapsed, whichever occurs first. Local conditions, severity of operation or duty cycle may require more or less frequent fluid change intervals that differ from the published recommended fluid change intervals of Allison Transmission.

    Transmission protection and fluid change intervals can be optimized by the use of fluid analysis.

    I use JG labs http://www.jglubricantservices.com/.

    Bill

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Not knowing your level of expertise I would recommend getting some one down there to check it out for you. Are the service records available? As stated by someone else it might cost a little now but save you lots latter.

    When you go look the coach over don’t be so in love you can’t walk away if it isn’t right. Get any “promises of repairs in righting”. Once they have your money their hearing gets really bad. I am not talking about PPL in particular I haven’t heard any bad with PPL but a lot of RV dealers make used car salesmen look like saints.

    Bill

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I don’t know about fantastic fan but I doubt if they are that different. I would look at the hinge there are several different aftermarket covers made but the hinges vary. I would measure the node spacing and take a picture for easy reference. I found a local camper store that had several different ones.

    Bill

  14. Posted · Report reply

    The first thing to do is sample aging in say 1000 miles. We want to see if the lead levels in crease or what is going on. I would not change the oil till you get a second sample as what you need is more than one sample on the oil. Oil analysis is basically trend analysis.

    I wouldn’t get to worried the lead is only 8 ppm over the normal if it was 30 -60 over I would be concerned. I will be interested in what your next report says. When you change your fluid I recommend you use Transend.

    I use to work in an oil lab doing Spectrometric oil analysis.

    Bill

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome to the forum.

    Sounds like a good deal.

    Did they have any maintenance records?

    You might want to just approach it like nothing has been done for maintained in a long time. The air bag issue may be from not being used or might be a leak. Try this when you have it aired up shut off the engine and see how long it takes to leak down. If it leaks down quickly you problem have a leak.

    Bill

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Agree for the engine oil. However, you can test the trans oil, and if okay, extend the change intervals.

    You are absolutley right. This is from the Allison web site.

    Using Allison Approved TES 295® fluid the recommended change for the M3000 or M4000 transmission are300,000 Miles (480,000 km) or 6,000 Hours or 48 Months.

    The Allison Transmission maintenance schedules stipulate that fluid/filters should be changed after the recommended mileage, months, or hours have elapsed, whichever occurs first. Local conditions, severity of operation or duty cycle may require more or less frequent fluid change intervals that differ from the published recommended fluid change intervals of Allison Transmission.

    Transmission protection and fluid change intervals can be optimized by the use of fluid analysis.

    You can get a lot of good info on your transmission from the website “my transmission”

    http://www.allisontransmission.com/myallisontransmission/mytransmissioninformation/

    Bill

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for all the replies I am probably going with the Blue Ox set up.

    Talk about bad deals working out in unexpected ways. I got lightly clipped on the right rear of my Civic. Put it in the shop last week and when I went to rent a car they had a 2013 CRV available. The CRV was on my short list to replace the Civic so guess what car I rented. I have decided that I like it better than I thought I would. Nothing like a 6 day test drive. Now looking to find a good deal on one.

    Bill

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I just have to write a rebuttal to these statements.

    “There is no commercial diesel engine company, Cummins, Detroit, Cat, Max Force, that recommends using 5W-40 SAE oil in temperate North America. You are playing a dangerous game. Synthetic or not.”

    Engine manufactures recommend using oil that meets certain guide lines. Such as API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4/ SM, SL, SJ. They often have a guide to viscosity.

    I wasn’t able to copy and paste the Cummins chart that can be found on Quick Serve Service bulletin 3810340 04-DEC-2009 titled Cummins engine oil and oil analysis recommendations. The oil reconditions for 0 deg to 120+ was 0-40 5-40 15-40. The only restriction on synthetic was to use the same drain interval as regular oil.

    “Also even at like viscosity a synthetic oil is thinner than it's counterpart regular oil. This particularly shows up when a hot high mileage engine is idling, with synthetic at idle the oil pressure might drop to 5 PSI lower than recommended, with regular oil also at idle the same engine would show 12-15 Psi on hot engine. More is better when oil pressure is minimal.”

    When cold a 0-40 or 5-40 will flow faster but when at operating temperatures it will be a 40 weight oil and will show no difference in oil pressure. The fact that a 0-40 or 5-40 will flow faster when cold means it will be protecting your engine faster on start up when most wear occurs. I especially like the fact it gets to the turbo faster.

    “Most diesel pushers today with intercoolers barely get to 180 degrees, heat is not a problem.”

    The “intercooler” better called a charge air cooler is in front of the radiator and only cools the air from the turbo before it enters the engine to improve performance. It actually adds to the cooling load of the radiator. The diesel engine operates at much higher internal temps than a gas engine. It is only because they have much bigger cooling systems that they will run at the proper temperatures. You can do a search and find a large number of posts about coaches over heating. Most from dirty radiators. When I see EGT temps 1200 deg + when pulling a long hill I am glad I have oil that will stand up to it.

    The oil today is not the oil of our youth. 50 years ago I would never run less than a strait 30 weight oil and never one of those new multi grade oils.

    Bill

  20. Posted · Report reply

    This is from the Onan RV Generator Handbook.

    “Gasoline Engine Oil Quality – Use oil meeting any of the following API

    Performance categories: SJ, SL or SM where SM is currently the highest quality

    available. Look for the “Energy Conserving” designation to optimize fuel economy.”

    NOTE: Multi-grade oils (such as SAE 15W-40) are recommended for year-round use in Cummins Onan

    I highly recommend Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. You can use what ever viscosity you feel would be best for your application. I would use the 10-40 high mileage. It was developed for cars that have longer oil change intervals but can be changed to meet Onans recommendations and provide better protection.

    Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of:

    ACEA A3/B3

    API SN, SM, SL

    Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 is of the following quality level:

    API CF

    As you can see it meets or exceeds the requirements of the Onan Handbook.

    Bill

  22. Posted · Report reply

    You didn’t say when you were going so I decided to put in my 2 cents.

    I would take 985 to 85 north out of Atlanta. 85 to Spartanburg then 26 to 40 get off 40 at exit 440 hiway 73/ 321 folow that to Gatlinburg. Yes it is a little longer but much easier drive. I was there Labor Day weekend. I drove 440 in my toad I could have in the RV but lots of tight turns no shoulder and lots of traffic. They were also doing road work in a couple of places. I prefer the easier rout it is a little longer but not as nerve racking.

    Bill

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I would make a list of all the things that you want to do to your coach. Now find out what all of it will cost you. I would then set down and look at what coach you could by using your trade in and the remodeling budget Keeping in mind that you will only get a small percentage of your remodeling money back if you sell your coach.

    Bill

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