kev

Today in the mail was my membership renual notice. It is now doubled in price. So I started to do some digging. Found this and I am here wondering what is going on. There is conversation on rvforums.com also.

The above seal set is a list for AP2381 only with the oil fill plug on the bottom of the foot pad. I am gathering the seal set information for the AP 2381 with the oil plug on the side.

The crud collected on by glove was not past the first seal inside the jack. The tank oil was NOT contaminated. This crud was collected after 32 years of use. Jacks should ideally be wiped off before retracting the jack, to its storage position. When the jack is out the residual oil on the chrome shaft attracts dirt. The dirt will somewhat wipe off when retracted, but eventually collects near the bottom seal. Does anyone wipe down their jacks before retraction?

If OP refers to kev, as original poster, yes there are other jack configurations of the same AP 2381 also known as an RAP 2381. As far as abbreviations or acronyms goes we are speaking to thousands of members here and we have space here to please spell out exactly what you are stating. I ran across another AP 2381 Jack this week with no hole for oil in the bottom plate. This AP2381 with different serial number had an oil plug on the side. On this kickdown 16000 pound jack HWH AP 2381 there is a snap ring on the inside of the bottom of the jack. Once the bottom snap ring is removed the inside cylinder can be removed. You do not need to cut the welds off. Removal of the inside snap ring will permit the inside cylinder to slide out. I will edit with pictures later.

Edited for jack removal. Even if you are sending to HWH, this will help your removal. Still not an easy job.

I will be showing the way to repair the AP 2381 16000 pound leveling jack. To Remove this jack you need to use a heavy duty jack to raise up your coach. Mine is 10 tons or 20,000 lbs. Once you have jacked up the rig, then support it on jackstands that will carry the weight of the coach you are working on. Under the coach you can swing down the jack and put a socket in near the top as shown in the picture. The socket is circled in the photo. After you have disconnected the hydraulic line. Be sure to plug the hydraulic line and cap the jack fitting. Also remove the jack indicator and grounding wire and tie them up to the underside or your rig. Then you can remove four bolts holding the HWH kickdown jack to the coach frame. Be careful the jack assembly is about 65 pounds total. Once the jack is removed from your coach or rig, the springs must be removed. The procedure for hwh jack springs - Leveling - FMCA RV Forums – A Community of RVers removing the springs is posted in other threads under "Jack Springs." This jack does NOT need to have the welds cut off. Remove the oil plug on the bottom of the foot and catch the oil. Then inside you will see a screwdriver slot. This is a bolt that will take at least a 2 foot breaker bar to remove. The bolt is threaded in and locktite was installed on the threads. Be very careful not to strip the slot. Unscrew the bolt. I had to make a tool to fit the approximately 3/16" slot. The bolt will remain inside the jack. Once the bolt is unscrewed the cylinder will slide out of the cylinder housing.

For the most insects and spiders may have built a home in your grill hose. Try a new hose. You can also try blowing it out with air. There are safety mechanisms in propane grill hoses. The hose safety mechanism gets plugged up with debris. You can also remove the safety mechanism. Rayin, On my grill the regulator is the flame control. There is not another regulator.

May I add to your good information? Please do NOT use abbreviations or acronyms . Spell out what you are talking about.

Paul was not helpful. Only suggestion was (last year) send it for repair. Same suggestion came from the phone call from HWH. I want to post a video of the working jack but am not familair with posting videos on here. The crud on my jack is the real reason jacks do not retract. Please note many folks think the springs are getting weak. Weak springs are NOT the reason jacks do not retract. The reason is dirt. The reason for my rebuild was the kick down cylinder was not working. I found this dirt during the larger cylinder rebuild. The large cylinder occasionally did not retract. More information here

There are more pictures at: The place where Barth members meet

Here is the completed picture. In a return call from HWH take note they did not know if the ports connecting the two cylinders were both drilled with a hole or not. Finally another call from the tech person said they ar BOTH drilled ports even though they sent me one solid and one open with a "poppit' valve" On the other hand they did not tell me what the problem was not permitting the jack to deploy intirely at 90 degrees. HWH does not want anyone to know. They would not tell me. I did figure it out myself. Below is a picture of a Carbide blast cleaned and painted (while in pieces) newly rebuilt functioning properly leveling jack. Anyone having questions on the parts or rebuilding can Private Message me for now. I would, if permitted post the steps in the rebuild process for the 16000 pound leveling jack. Other HWH jacks may be similar.

I prefer the choice of power consumption. I would NOT put a home refrigerator in MY camper. National RV refrigeration Repair in Shepshewanna, Indiana is where I purchased a newly rebuilt refrigerator for my camper. If you take a road trip like I did with a Canyon cooler, Glen will repair or replace your refirgerator. The number for National is: 260-768-7059 to make an appointment. Try searching Craigslist for RV refirigerators. Here are some pictures of the install that was less than one coach buck ($1000)

Thanks for the timestamp update. I did not notice the timestamp being old.

I like the luxury and warmth of wood. Did you do the work? Most flooring professionals will not work in motorhomes because there is too much precision work. Fooring guys want big open rooms with little or no custom cuts. On a other note it appears you have a tall top step. Is that 10 inches? Mine was an 8" and then a 10.5. I changed to 3 steps with about 6' rise. Did your rise/run change with the flooring upgrade?

My BaRTH is 11'6" tall. It is aircraft aluminum. Most are under 10 ton. Mine tipps the scales at 15 ton. There are several Barth class A campers for sale at Barthmobile.com. Some are gas and some are diesel pushers. Mine is on a Gillig Chassis. Some are Spartan Chassises. The gassers are mostly Chevrolet Chassises. What is your budget jemcge28?