kev

Today in the mail was my membership renual notice. It is now doubled in price. So I started to do some digging. Found this and I am here wondering what is going on. There is conversation on rvforums.com also.

The above seal set is a list for AP2381 only with the oil fill plug on the bottom of the foot pad. I am gathering the seal set information for the AP 2381 with the oil plug on the side.

The crud collected on by glove was not past the first seal inside the jack. The tank oil was NOT contaminated. This crud was collected after 32 years of use. Jacks should ideally be wiped off before retracting the jack, to its storage position. When the jack is out the residual oil on the chrome shaft attracts dirt. The dirt will somewhat wipe off when retracted, but eventually collects near the bottom seal. Does anyone wipe down their jacks before retraction?

If OP refers to kev, as original poster, yes there are other jack configurations of the same AP 2381 also known as an RAP 2381. As far as abbreviations or acronyms goes we are speaking to thousands of members here and we have space here to please spell out exactly what you are stating. I ran across another AP 2381 Jack this week with no hole for oil in the bottom plate. This AP2381 with different serial number had an oil plug on the side. On this kickdown 16000 pound jack HWH AP 2381 there is a snap ring on the inside of the bottom of the jack. Once the bottom snap ring is removed the inside cylinder can be removed. You do not need to cut the welds off. Removal of the inside snap ring will permit the inside cylinder to slide out. I will edit with pictures later.

Edited for jack removal. Even if you are sending to HWH, this will help your removal. Still not an easy job.

I will be showing the way to repair the AP 2381 16000 pound leveling jack. To Remove this jack you need to use a heavy duty jack to raise up your coach. Mine is 10 tons or 20,000 lbs. Once you have jacked up the rig, then support it on jackstands that will carry the weight of the coach you are working on. Under the coach you can swing down the jack and put a socket in near the top as shown in the picture. The socket is circled in the photo. After you have disconnected the hydraulic line. Be sure to plug the hydraulic line and cap the jack fitting. Also remove the jack indicator and grounding wire and tie them up to the underside or your rig. Then you can remove four bolts holding the HWH kickdown jack to the coach frame. Be careful the jack assembly is about 65 pounds total. Once the jack is removed from your coach or rig, the springs must be removed. The procedure for hwh jack springs - Leveling - FMCA RV Forums – A Community of RVers removing the springs is posted in other threads under "Jack Springs." This jack does NOT need to have the welds cut off. Remove the oil plug on the bottom of the foot and catch the oil. Then inside you will see a screwdriver slot. This is a bolt that will take at least a 2 foot breaker bar to remove. The bolt is threaded in and locktite was installed on the threads. Be very careful not to strip the slot. Unscrew the bolt. I had to make a tool to fit the approximately 3/16" slot. The bolt will remain inside the jack. Once the bolt is unscrewed the cylinder will slide out of the cylinder housing.

For the most insects and spiders may have built a home in your grill hose. Try a new hose. You can also try blowing it out with air. There are safety mechanisms in propane grill hoses. The hose safety mechanism gets plugged up with debris. You can also remove the safety mechanism. Rayin, On my grill the regulator is the flame control. There is not another regulator.

May I add to your good information? Please do NOT use abbreviations or acronyms . Spell out what you are talking about.

Paul was not helpful. Only suggestion was (last year) send it for repair. Same suggestion came from the phone call from HWH. I want to post a video of the working jack but am not familair with posting videos on here. The crud on my jack is the real reason jacks do not retract. Please note many folks think the springs are getting weak. Weak springs are NOT the reason jacks do not retract. The reason is dirt. The reason for my rebuild was the kick down cylinder was not working. I found this dirt during the larger cylinder rebuild. The large cylinder occasionally did not retract. More information here

There are more pictures at: The place where Barth members meet

Here is the completed picture. In a return call from HWH take note they did not know if the ports connecting the two cylinders were both drilled with a hole or not. Finally another call from the tech person said they ar BOTH drilled ports even though they sent me one solid and one open with a "poppit' valve" On the other hand they did not tell me what the problem was not permitting the jack to deploy intirely at 90 degrees. HWH does not want anyone to know. They would not tell me. I did figure it out myself. Below is a picture of a Carbide blast cleaned and painted (while in pieces) newly rebuilt functioning properly leveling jack. Anyone having questions on the parts or rebuilding can Private Message me for now. I would, if permitted post the steps in the rebuild process for the 16000 pound leveling jack. Other HWH jacks may be similar.

I prefer the choice of power consumption. I would NOT put a home refrigerator in MY camper. National RV refrigeration Repair in Shepshewanna, Indiana is where I purchased a newly rebuilt refrigerator for my camper. If you take a road trip like I did with a Canyon cooler, Glen will repair or replace your refirgerator. The number for National is: 260-768-7059 to make an appointment. Try searching Craigslist for RV refirigerators. Here are some pictures of the install that was less than one coach buck ($1000)

Thanks for the timestamp update. I did not notice the timestamp being old.

I like the luxury and warmth of wood. Did you do the work? Most flooring professionals will not work in motorhomes because there is too much precision work. Fooring guys want big open rooms with little or no custom cuts. On a other note it appears you have a tall top step. Is that 10 inches? Mine was an 8" and then a 10.5. I changed to 3 steps with about 6' rise. Did your rise/run change with the flooring upgrade?

My BaRTH is 11'6" tall. It is aircraft aluminum. Most are under 10 ton. Mine tipps the scales at 15 ton. There are several Barth class A campers for sale at Barthmobile.com. Some are gas and some are diesel pushers. Mine is on a Gillig Chassis. Some are Spartan Chassises. The gassers are mostly Chevrolet Chassises. What is your budget jemcge28?

Pictures will not upload with Chrome based "EPIC" web browser. I had to use Microsoft Edge to post my pictures of radiant heat flooring. Epic is a browser that will give different search results from Google. It is paid for by its users not the advertiser(s).

The reason I took the time to install radiant liquid heat is because I did not like the electric current constantly under my feet and contained by an aluminum box. My coach is all aluminum. I got rid of my water bed heater years ago so I was not sleeping on an electric current. I have the same usage restriction. I need to turn off the pump in the floor when I want a hot shower. The floor does retain enough heat while using hot water for a shower.

Thank you wildebil308 and erniee for the recognition. I did not think it was going to be that challenging. I have it in my home but there are no space restrictions. The motor home presented an engineering challenge with space restrictions. A little bit about my floor heat: The engine hot water tank heats the domestic hot water with a heat exchanger. The domestic hot water heats the floor with a flat plate heat exchanger. The liquid is moved with 1 amp 12 volt wet rotor pumps. When parked the the domestic hot water is heated by shore power and/or propane.

After some personal help with the information technology department, we discovered that the Epic Browser based on Chrome will not let the pictures load. After switching to Microsoft Edge I was able to post the above pictures. If anyone would like to see more pictures I will post more pictures. Off topic, .....If using Microsoft Edge browser is useful information, a moderator could post this tip where needed.

During Covid lockdown I was not using my Motor Home. I installed radiant heat flooring. It took about 10 months to complete. Here is what is under my floor.

My 32-year-old camper is not listed. My leveling system is manual. Each leveling jack has a valve to divert the oil to the jack. The new number for the AP2381 is RAP 2381. I do not want to purchase new jacks at the tune of $1700 EACH. If there is a specific page, you can link me to for the rebuilding of the smaller kick down cylinder please provide it. I keep going in circles to the purchase of new jacks on the HWH site. During a bench test the AP2381 will not kick to a full 90 degrees. I have missed something simple in the rebuild. Thank you for your continued time to reply to this topic as an effort to get my jack to function properly.

Called Stewarts last year. Stewarts always replies to call HWH. HWH was supposed to call me back. No one has returned my call. If any member has rebuilt the AP 2381 leveling jack please let me know what part of the rebuild process has gone wrong. Rayin, Thank you for your military service.

There are a lot of topics on leveling jacks not retracting. The HWH AP 2381 is a 16,000 pound capacity kick down jack. My jacks do not always fully retract either. My system is NOT automatic. Each jack is on a separate hydraulic valve. To over come the retraction difficulty, I retract each jack before I start the engine. With the coaches air ride suspension deflated the weight of the coach will fully push the jacks to the retracted position. When the suspension air bags inflate the coach will lift the jacks off of the ground. This enables the jacks to swing up into the carry position fully retracted. As of late I have a new problem. One of my swing down jacks in only moving to about a 45 degree position. Please note the hydraulic oil is ample enough to push the jack out, but the kick down cylinder, which is a smaller one is is not pushing out far enough to move the jack to a vertical position. The rollers for the pivoting action are all operating smoothly. What is the mechanical problem inside is not permitting the unit to properly kick down?

From what Information I have gathered Glued in place is best. I have read of some sad stories about floating floors in homes with wheels. Did the plywood base get screwed down or glued down?