afchap

I did not find the wrench easy to work with on the TST either. Over approx 8 mo. I had a couple of toad flats (while parked) due to loosening sensors, and had many failed sensors replaced under warranty. I currently use TireTracker. The sensors have a separate lock piece (using a small allen wrench as I recall) that I have never attempted to use.

gypsies2 That is true in some states, but not true in others ...and depends on what you mean by "carry" (on your person on in your vehicle, concealed or open, etc); and depends on what you mean by "unloaded" (some states prohibit even a loaded magazine anywhere in the vehicle); and depends on what you mean by "separate" etc, etc. As I indicated in an earlier post, an excellent quick and simple reference that is updated every year is "Travelers Guide to Firearms Laws of the Fifty States." Google it and you should find several sources to buy from. Between that AND doing a google search on specific states you are traveling to at a specific time, you should be able to keep out of trouble. Laws change all the time so you may find conflicting information from one website to the next as some are updated faster than others.

My Accuride wheels on Spartan chassis came with solid metal (brass?) extensions on the inside duals. Had a cracked valve stem leak early on but no tire damage. I got a pair of the stabilizer for the wheel holes (Alco, though Accuride has them too) and have never had another problem with using solid metal extensions ...several years with double seal air-through-the-cap Alligator caps, and now with TireTraker TPMS sensors ...8 yrs and over 60k miles.

Winnebago does not require anything special. I pretty much stick with the red Valtera ends that screw into the hose. I add a bit of silicone caulk to the threads, then a round of duct tape and a clamp. They don't leak or come loose, and last longer than the hose. I now have a Rhino with Rhino ends. They do go on easier ...don't know yet how secure/leak-proof they are.

I have to agree with PHE, based on the many states I have checked out. "Most states" in the US do have some provisions for transporting firearms, whether long gun or hand guns ...in fact, I would argue that "most states" have few problems with it. And many (most?) recognize the concealed handgun carry permits issued by other states. (check http://www.carryconcealed.net/). However, "most states" in the NE part of the US ARE much more restrictive, and some in fact violate most citizens' understanding of Federal Law on the subject.

A good reference to carry with you ...IF you chose to travel with firearms ...is "Travelers Guide to Firearms Laws of the Fifty States". Do a google search and you should find sources where you can order it. It has a one page synopsis of key info for each state covering handguns, long guns, concealed, etc.

My first Rhino blew out along the folds after 8 months of use (I am a fulltimer, so it is out almost all the time). That burned me a bit on Rhino so I replaced with a very similar hose named Ramble. It has lasted 3 years, and just last month I had to cut off apx 6" when it split along a fold near one end. Then we arrived in our current park and found the previous RVer had abandoned a long Rhino. It had a fitting on one end only, so I bought a fitting for the other end ..we'll see how long this one lasts!

Our 40' diesel MH has a lifetime avg mileage of 7.2mpg. When diesel got up to over $4 a gallon a couple of years ago I found my fuel cost was pretty much 50 cents a mile ...drive 800 miles and spend $400 for fuel. With lower prices we probably are between 30 and 40 cents per mile now, but I still budget close to 50 cents per mile to be sure it is covered. OTR truckers have told me their cost per mile is around $1.15 or more ...they include all routine maintenance/service costs. With those costs in mind, we normally take the shortest route between destinations unless they involve lots of traffic/stop and go. We don't make pointless side trips in the motorhome, and we don't go very far out of the way for "cheaper" fuel as that would not pay. As fulltimers, we consider the cost of fuel just another part of the cost of "utilities" to keep our "house" in operation. We can control the cost just a little by driving less, but it is a necessary cost to run the house. One thing we do to help hold the cost down is to use a CC (PenFed) that credits us with 5% on each statement for all fuel purchased at the pump. That means $4.00/gal fuel would actually cost us $3.80/gal ...every little bit helps! Actually, the cost of RV parks is much greater over a year's time than the cost of fuel.

I am Paul, and DW is Jean. I retired from the Air Force in 2005 after 5 years Reserve followed by 26 yrs active duty. Two years before retirement we bought our first RV, a 2003 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40e. Our first trip was to visit the kids in Alabama, and to take them our three tents since we felt no need for them anymore!! We are fulltimers, traveling with two Maltese dogs, and towing a Honda Odyssey which functions as the rolling garage for my recumbent Catrike and/or 2-wheeled Gecko. We have no home base, but do have a storage facility in Alabama near two of our children.

I'm familiar with the Sewer Solution and how it works. But I haven't found the 3" hoses to be that big a problem or mess. I use the stiff type hose as my primary hose ...first used Rhino but it disintegerated after almost a year and I replaced it with a similar hose by Ramble. Covering the hose to protect it from UV damage from sunlight as the OP indicates is a good idea for we fulltimers who have the hose out almost every day of the year. I don't always do that, but do when I can. I put the red Valtera quick-connect fittings on each end of the hose, making it easy to add extensions when that is necessary. The stiff hose expands to various lengths, or stays short as needed, and it stays where I put it, which is normally in a rain gutter type support. My black tank has a flush system, so that and the gray tank can be used to flush the 3" hose. (The way my coach dump tubing is plumbed, the flush feature on the Sewer Solution would not get water into the black or gray tank ...probably not even to the dump valves.) When I compress the stiff Ramble hose for travel, I put a cap on each end and stow it in the built-in tube with no drips. I can see the Sewer Solution being useful for forcing a dump uphill when that is necessary ...of course, using it requires you have a water hydrant available, and likely more time for the dump process. It does have other drawbacks that have kept me from buying one. For instance, most places I have been the 10' of hose would not be enough to do the job ...I know there is an extension hose available, but that is just more stuff to store in a fulltimer rig!! I guess we all develop our own "sewer solution" depending on our rig and our normal dump locations...

I feel like a real youngster here ...most of these folks served/retired before I got started on my military career!!! Name: Paul Service: Air Force Time: Reserve '75-'80 / Active '80-2005 ...retired with 30 yr, 9 mo. ...it sure went fast!!! Rank: 0-1 through 0-6 Job: Chaplain Where: assigned to Greenland; Saudi Arabia (before Desert Storm); Guam; Griffiss AFB; Air University at Maxwell AFB; Davis-Monthan AFB; Pope AFB; Andrews AFB; HQ AFMC at Wright-Patterson AFB; HQ ACC at Langley AFB; TDYs to many locations. We started fulltiming 3 mo before I retired in late 2005 ...loving going now where WE want to go and leaving when WE want to.

I have a setup similar to what NWJeeper described with a detachable faceplate. Mine is an Icom IC-207H 2/440 rig. The radio is against the firewall beyond my left foot, with the faceplate velcroed onto the dash. I put a Larsen KG-2/70-CX-PL on-the-glass antanna on the dual-pane glass high beside the driver seat and it works surprisingly well. I wired my radio to the battery connection for the generator just under the driver area so it is independent of the ignition. I use it a little while driving, but a lot more while stationary. I have seen a few larger antennas in campgrounds ... sometimes a screwdriver type attached to the rear, sometimes a pole temporarily attached to the rear ladder, and occasionally a wire strung in trees behind the rig.

My coach came set up very well. The outside duals have the valve stems turned outward as described by Gil. The inside duals have long solid metal extensions. After driving the coach from TX to VA I found one inside dual flat. The repair place found one cracked extension. They gave me Alcoa stabilizers that fit in the outer wheel hole (note that I have Accuride wheels) around the inner dual extension to keep it from flexing while driving. That was 7 years and about 60k miles ago and they have been trouble free. I use Alligator caps so I can check pressure and add air without removing the valve caps. I can check my tire pressures in the time it takes me to walk around the coach and bend over at each wheel. I tried a TPMS, and cut out the center of the rubber stabilizers to fit the inner wheel sensors. After 8 months I recently returned the TPMS after it proved to be much more trouble than it was worth. I stuck the stabilizers back together with black silicone caulk, but will pick up new ones next time I get by a truck tire service place.

I use a 1 micron sediment filter between shore water and the coach EVERYWHERE I hook to shore water. I will not use a charcoal filter between the shore water and the coach as I definitely want chlorine in the fresh water tank to help prevent algae growth. I believe the reason mfg's put a charcoal filter at the kitchen sink is to remove taste of chlorine and other things from the water you are drinking and putting in the ice maker. I do have one under my galley sink. I have a Shurflo 5.7 pump with the screen strainer immediately before the pump. I am on the fourth or fifth 5.7 pump in 4 1/2 years. Some last a year or more, a couple have lasted just a few months. I carry a Shurflo 1.8gpm for a backup, and can change them out pretty fast, even in the dark! When Shurflo gets tired of replacing their pump, I plan to try an Aquajet.