loriscribe

I've owned a 2005 Itasca Cambria 26 foot for ten years. I'd like to have a newer one but don't trust the quality of manufacture anymore. My Cambria has never -- NEVER -- had a quality problem. Doors and drawers function properly. All systems just keep chugging along as they should. In all that time the only thing I've had to replace is the door lock to the house door. That said, one of the minor "wishes" for a design change would be the low black/gray water connection location. The outlet that connects to your sewer hose is only about 14 inches from the ground and so doesn't have much of a slope to your sewer hose ground fixture. I've been able to work around that, but it still requires me to be on my knees for a good part of that task. Nothing has ever malfunctioned -- except the occupant occasionally. I've been informed that all manufacturers of RVs have cut back on their Quality Assurance teams in order to collect more of a profit, and that's too bad because the word is out among RVers that newer RVs will spend a great deal of time in the shop getting retrofitted for quality that should have been done at the factory. I would comment, also, that this is a motorhome that probably shouldn't house more than two or three occupants since its overall length is 26"6".

Ooops. I hit some wrong buttons. Brett and Tom, you BOTH helped me solve my dilemma. Thanks.

Many thanks, Brett -- once again -- for your expertise and clarity. Lori

At various rallies over the past few years, I've heard experts in their fields make contradictory statements about the ability and nonability of generators to charge house batteries in a motor home. Discussions with RVers haven't resolved the veracity of either side of that subject. Guidance, please, along with explanations. Thanks, Lori

I've had the Duallyvalve kit on my dual tires for years. Both valve stems can be easily accessed from the exterior. These are valve stems, not valve stem extensions. Online, search "Duallyvalve kit." You'll be happy. Lori Singels

Thanks to all. Sure wish I'd saved that FMCA article. That's what comes with "cleaning out the garage"!!! Lori

Good for you, huffypuff!!! Stay safe. Lori

I just got back home from a snowbirding trip. On the way I like to use what I read about in an old issue of the FMCA magazine as the headlight codes used by truck drivers to signal clearance to a passing truck, trouble up ahead, etc. On long trips it's helpful and just plain fun to use them but, after not having used them on a long trip for several months, many were just pfsssst -- unaccessible. The article in the FMCA magazine was very thorough, but I'm sure I read it at least four years ago and don't know how to find it again. Can anyone give me a quick review of the "codes" or the month and year of the original article in FMCA (I keep all issues)? Lori

I snowbird each year, and a friend asked me how she could winterize her gas water heater after I was describing my procedure for "winterizing" the house (specifically, draining the water lines and turning off the electric water heater). Since my water heater is inside the house, I just trip the breaker and call it good. Anybody have any methods for safely leaving an inside gas water heater for three or so months in an area that gets frequent subfreezing temps in winter? Tnx, Lori

Thanks for your prompt reply, Wolfe10. The readings previously given of 108-110 were the readings with no appliances running, fridge and heat on propane, without any outlets or overhead lights being used with the exception of the computer being plugged in and active and whatever "scavengers" that are ever-present. The volt meter had normal readings last week at a different park. My coffee pot normally uses four volts, so I had to go outside to the 20A pedestal outlet for that. If I'd used it inside, I would have had a low reading of 104.

I know I've seen several articles on this subject here in the past but can't find it when I need it. I'm parked at a Pacific Northwest RV park two blocks from the ocean. I was here also last October. Both then and now my AC volt meter which stays plugged into the outlet, is reading 108-110 consistently. Last October when I was at this same park in a different site it was the same reading and I got shrugs from the park managers. Then, as now, I switched to LP for everything. that can be switched. I'm camping with a group and many aren't aware of the dangers of low voltage. Could someone address these concerns in some detail since I'm getting blank stares when I talk about the problem?

Many thanks, StellersJay, for your detailed description. Just invaluable. I'm printing the post and keeping it close. Lori

Somewhere in my file of fabulous RV info/tips I printed out -- from this forum, I'm sure -- instructions or information on how to reestablish the air pocket of RV water heaters after dewinterization. I know the water fill is automatic, but I just can't find the tip or remember how to establish that air pocket. Maybe I'm confused with the LP air pocket. That info just went poof. Help would be appreciated. Lori

In rereading my MH's stats (just for fun, ya know), I noticed a phrase that for some reason I hadn't, before. After giving stats for GVWR and GAWR, there was the phrase "Wet weight as tested: front, 3380 pounds; rear, 8360 pounds; total, 11,740 pounds." I have been using the Michelin weight tables to determine psi for my tires based on the GAWR (front, 4600#; rear, 9450#). Have I been wrong all this time? Should I have been using the "wet weight" stats???? HELP!!!! Lori

I've got a 27' Itasca Cambria that responds to her name of "Little Ita" -- after "Itasca. Get it? I'm used to referring to her that way, but the service guys sort of look at me funny.

mrboyer, desertdeals69, and RVerOnTheMove -- thank you all very much. It was sort of ruining my trip worrying about this stuff since I had absolutely no experience with it and sure didn't want to cause water leaks from broken lines by doing something stupid. So I'm loading up with water, packing my fresh water hose away just to be on the safe side, and goin' for it!!! Safe travels to you all!!! Lori

I have a 26' 2005 Itasca Cambria motor home and am leaving rainy Oregon for Arizona soon. While I plan to be staying mainly around the Tucson area, I am attending a conference in Sedona the last week in December. Sedona is 4300 feet. All the weather averages show daytime temperatures in the 50s and 60s with nighttime lows in the 20s. In addition to insulating as many fresh water connections as can be reached from underneath, what can I do to keep lines from freezing? Will the lines freeze up in the night if daytime temps are in the 50s/60s? From what techs tell me the water lines generally follow the ductwork for the heater which keeps them warmer and less apt to freeze. Do I just not use my fresh water and rough it for a week? A large body of water such as the fresh water tank should freeze slower than a nearly empty one, seems to me. Should the rig be winterized before I go there? I'm staying at a nice RV park with all the amenities in downtown Sedona. I just don't know how to do this to protect the water lines. I need some good advice from some of you old-timers -- or even young-timers.

I have heard (not verified) that running with the LP on is illegal in most states, particularly when fueling up at gas stations, going through tunnels, and on the ferry. The latter was verified personally by myself in the summer of '09 when I took a series of ferries in Washington State. Each of the four times I was given a bright pink tag to put on the handle of the LP to show ferry employees that the LP was off. They took it seriously enough to watch me while I affixed the tag and turned the handle. I think it was on this forum a couple of years ago that the wife of one of two couples who were traveling to Florida together told about the lead rig at one point couldn't see the following rig, turned around, and came upon their friends' rig nearly burned to the ground at the side of the road -- all within twenty minutes or so. Nothing was wrong with the LP unit; it just hit a rock when a tire blew and set off an explosion. They lost two friends that day. That story had a huge impact on me -- enough so that I never travel with the LP on. Yes, it's a huge inconvenience to travel without the fridge on. The best solution I've come up with is to either plug in or turn on the LP a couple of days before the trip, let the fridge get to a "safe" temperature (via a fridge thermometer), put the food in (cold food), shut the door, turn off LP/Electric, and leave the door shut until arriving at my destination. If your fridge has a good seal and the food was safely cold when it was put in, it will be safe. I usually freeze a couple of bottles of OJ and put those in the fridge section when loading the other food just to be extra safe.

Peggy: I have an Itasca Cambria 26' (2005), and I caved in and got the yellow leveling blocks at Camping World. At a campsite, I check to see that steering wheel is straight, then check my Hoody levels installed on dash and driver's side door to see where and how much I'm out of level. Then I put the refrigerator level in. Then I get the yellow blocks and put either three or five down in front of each tire on that side, including both duallies, depending on how off level I am. If I'm only off an inch as shown on the Hoody's, that should do it, and I use three in front of each tire. If I'm off two inches, I add three more blocks on top of the five already down on each "line" of three blocks, offsetting by half a block (which gives a gentle stair-step rise). I get back in and run the rig slowly forward until I can feel the tires come onto the blocks, make sure I'm in neutral & set hand brake, get out and check to see my tires are fully on the blocks, get back in and check the refrigerator level. If I'm within half a bubble, I'm good. It does involve a lot of getting in and out and checking, but that's okay (I'm not saying I don't sometimes dream of being able to push a button and it's all taken care of). Pulling out, I just go forward a couple of feet and then get out and collect and store the blocks. Because the wheel was straight to begin with, you don't have to back up to free the blocks. I've heard both sides of the argument re whether it's that important for the refrigerator to be level on the newer models. My only take on that is that I'd rather be safe than sorry. Happy Camping!!!