kaypsmith
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Posts posted by kaypsmith
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Two ac's on 30 amp is certainly marginal, as Brett pointed out. Any thing on either of the circuits running at the same time probably will cause a circuit breaker, fuse, whichever you have.
When you use a 50 to 30 amp adapter, you are using a 30 amp single 110volt wire, then splitting into the equivalent of two 15 amp circuits. The two units probably will slave to work, and this causes overheating.
Replacing the 30 amp and going to 50 amp is definitely the best route. But remember that the 30 amp circuit probably is only number 10 wire size from the panel to the box. This needs to be replaced all the way to the panel with #6 wire, the ground can be #8. Be sure to inform the wire source as to what your goal is.
Kay
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ahepburn51,
I'm sorry that you are confused, poles refer to the number of terminals. I should have added all of the information, it is a 6 pole double throw, normally open, momentary switch.
Pos, or position refers to the number of circuits. Double pole double throw is the same as a 6 pole double throw. There are also 9 pole, and 12 pole, they are used for 3 wires and 4 wires respectively. These are used when multiple wires are used. A 6 position switch is used when 6 circuits are used, and they are offered with multiple terminals also.
Kay
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Have not stayed at that park, but have surveyed and drove through this park.
I met with the staff, they were very nice to talk to, and the park is very nice. Have concrete pads, and for past two years appears to be very well maintained. I usually stay at Creekside, not quite as nice or pricey, but have very good relationship with the staff there, for that reason have not wanted to stay at other parks.
Hope you have a very pleasant time at Pigeon Forge.
Kay
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AC voltage should not be any problem with magnetizing any iron or steel object, as implied, ac (alternating current) is not a polarizer. 60 cycles, or hertz as most call it means just that. The positive goes negative 60 times per second, thus reversing the charge 60 times each second. Power reels have been around for several years, and if there were any dangers, I'm sure the manufacturer would have warning labels advising such. With the greedy, sue happy lawyers that are around these days, someone would have already been sued over such an issue. Not saying all lawyers are evil people, I have many friends that are lawyers and are not of that breed, but they do exist. Enjoy your power reel, you deserve it.
Happy trails,
Kay
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I lived in Florida when those critters got so bad. We found that a spray of Pam, the kind used on cookie sheets and other baking utinsels, right on the front end of a clean vehicle worked reasonably well. Never seemed to hurt the finish and is easily removed by using a little Dawn or similar dish detergent. This isn't a cure all but really helped in removing them. Hope this helps.
Kay
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I bought mine on e-bay, and love it.
Under e-bay search, type in rv furniture. I bought the memory foam version, but others are available.
Kay
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Frank,
I wasn't referring to all fifth wheelers, I've had three of so far, and thousands of the good ones like yourself to pass and repass. I've been rv'ing over twenty five years, and have had more problems with four wheel automobile/pickup trucks than any other vehicles on the road. They like to pass and cut in too soon, then apply brakes to slow down slower than I was already driving. I live close to B'ham., and usually go to Pigeon Forge twice a year. We love the area as there is many things to do there. Veterans parkway during busy times will cut as much as one and a half hours off of drive if you are going that far, if you want to go Wears valley route, simply turn right on Teaster Lane, just before 441.
Happy trails' Kay
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Just one quick little thought, the fan when running should be pulling from the outside in to the radiator. If this is happening, then the direction is correct. Also, if when coming off, the fan may have damaged the shroud, a hole in it will cause overheat.
Good luck,
Kay
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I drove it in a 35 ft. diesel pusher, towing a Geo Tracker. I made it OK, but will never do that route again in a similar or larger situation. Rig should be no problem, I encountered too many idiots pulling fifth wheels that do not believe that my rig was as important to me as theirs were to them. IE., they like to hover across the yellow line, and there are several hairpin turns on that route.
Best advice is to continue on I75 to Knoxville, take the bypass and then up I40 east to exit 407, Seveireville, Pigeon Forge exit. At Pigeon Forge take 411 N to Veterans Parkway (very short from 441), turn right follow past Dollywood, back to 441 then left to Gatlinburg. A little farther, nor as scenic as going over the Smokies.
While Parked, there are plenty beautiful rides that are not too far from where parked. Don't for to take a tour of Cataloochee ranger station, the Elk and lots of other wildlife are abundant.
Hope you have a fun trip.
Kay
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If you are coming down I65, then 231,towards the Fla. Panhandle, just before Troy Al., there is very nice campground named Deer Run. I've never had to make reservations there. It is a friendly cg and makes for very convenient way to break up the trip. If you want to take the scenic route to further south, it is almost always necessary to reserve at St. George Island, State Park.
This is a very good campground near Apalachicola Fla.. The seafood including oysters are some of the best that you can find anywhere. Just a couple observations on my part, hope you have a wonderful stay in Fla.
Happy trails,
Kay
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Radio vendor, boy is smart. As Rich says the car only acts as a ground plane. If you have a rubber or fiberglass roof, you can take a piece of copper wire and stretch it from front to rear of your coach. Wire can be shielded with standard poly dielectric really is better, since it will help prevent corroding. Black in color will last longer because black is UV proof. pull one end of the wire, or both ends to a good grounding point on your coach, and make sure that your antenna is grounded well also. Seems like extreme, but with Rich's suggestion will greatly add to the AM reception. As an amateur radio operator, I have literally worked the world from rv with a similar setup. Good luck and Happy trails, Kay
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Sounds like a pretty good system that you have going. I use word and copy and paste to it in the same manner that you described. I haven't found any other method yet that works well for me. Hope someone else has found a better way, as I would like one also.
I lived in Lake City back in the early eighties and supervised convenience stores in Gainesville. We still have family in that area, and visit them a couple times a year. Always like to hear from your area.
Happy trails, hope that Concord/Coachman gets her way soon.
Kay
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One more thing to think about is, pressure sensors/guages and learning how to take advantage of their readings can greatly increase fuel mileage.
For instance, when the turbo pressure drops, simply ease off of the accelerator when going uphill. This increases the air to fuel ratio, which increases fuel mileage. If you don't have guages, learning to watch the exhaust, when black smoke appears, the smoke is an indication of unburned fuel. From your last post, you are probably already aware of this, one more indication that the chip might prove to be useless in your circumstance. Sounds like you have already made up your mind the best scenario. My comments are mostly so if anyone else reads this post, they might get some common good from it.
Happy trails, may the wind be at your back,
Kay
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Sounds like an expensive Whirlpool nightmare. I would start by contacting Winnebago again, and I would demand that they replace that microwave with another brand at their expense, surely your MH is still under manufacture warranty.
Obviously Whirlpool doesn't care!!!! I bet if the Winnebago factory gets behind Whirlpool, and stops using Whirlpool products in their products, it will get more attention than just one squeaky wheel.
Good luck,
Kay
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Hello, Greg, and welcome to FMCA.
This sounds like a real plan to me. Good luck with your desires to fulltime. Damon makes a good product I'm not familiar with the Challenger330, but seems that you are already impressed that model. On a Ford chassis, probably has a gas engine, which should be sufficient.
I personally would have diesel, primarily because of torque and longevity. I've owned two with gas engines and two with diesel, and would not go back to gas. But that is an issue that you apparently have already considered.
The ability to move when you get ready is really desirable, especially with the fact that you are single, don't have to argue with anyone as to when and where. I'm sure that your kid will be grateful any time you say, let's go. Just a little pun!
The model years that you mentioned is a good choice, because they are not too old yet, and can be purchased at a good buyer's price.
Good luck with your decision, and happy trails.
Kay
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Check with your insurance agent about the windshield deductable. All glass is insured under the comprehensive portion of your insurance, and most companies put the comprehensive portion at one half of the collision deductable. Hope this is true on yours, or hopefully even lower.
Good luck,
Kay
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Just one more thought, I surely hope that there is metal behind that fiberglass, but if only wood, remove the screws one at a time, and put lots of silicone in the screw holes.
Maybe I will quit thinking, but I hope all works well.
Kay
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Loctight is good, but could be a detriment if removal is necessary, we use fingernail polish, as it is lacquer and will crack when turned, nail polish remover will take off the remnants.
I would add star washers if they are not already there and the nail polish. Lowes and most other supply places carry them is the specialty items on the same aisle as the screws and bolts.
LOL, Kay
(PS) thought I had the attachment figured out, but must not have.
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Sorry, I was taking pictures when you sent your last post. The bottom, under the arm at the base, you probably have already removed that cover, and taken off that nut, or bolt as yours might be. Simply use a good corrosive buster, WD40 will do, it just takes more of it. Squirt it generously into the crevice at the bottom of the arm, and with a straw on your pressurized can of buster, squirt up and into the same hole that the bolt came out of. Let this sit for a while, and then gently move the arm right and left. There is the heater and adjusting wires up and inside this area, but wd40 and most penetrates will not hurt these, just look for any cautions on the can that might advise otherwise. When the movement begins, squirt more penetrant into the crevice as mentioned before. The arm will lift right up and off, careful not to damage wires. There should be about inches of slack in the wires, with a molex connector that will separate. The chrome cover pulls straight off to reveal the for screws that you are looking for. If you need the pictures, I will gladly e-mail them to you, but the advice above is pretty straight forward. Remember penetrate and lots of it will not hurt anything except our feelings while cleaning up the mess. WD40 is nothing except diesel fuel with a propellant, the newer stuff does not even contain propane to propel as the old school version did.
Good luck, Kay
(PS) I didn't see a place to attach the pictures to this post, or they would be here.
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Are the screw heads covered, or is your base appear to be solid chrome? If the link that Rich sent you is correct, should be a simple task. If the base appears to be solid chrome, let me know. I have the same Velvac mirrors, but the base is solid looking. If it is like mine, I will send you pictures and instructions for getting to the screws.
Good luck,
Kay
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I'm a liitle surprised that you have not already gotten a response to your question already, but for what it is worth. I'm an electronic engineer by trade, specializing in the computer field now. Any so called upgrade that supposedly gives better performance and or better fuel mileage is just an overide of what should be operating optimum already.
Sure you can turn up most any engine, but remember that an engineer actually built that product to specifications and input the computer to not get everything that the engine is capable of, simply for the reason that he or she knows that getting maximum performance will actually shorten the longevity of their product. I'm reasonably sure that your unit has already outlived the original warranty period.
If you take that engine in to Cummins, the first thing they will do, even though it is out of warranty, is to remove the add on, before any test will be performed.
Could you get better fuel mileage? Probably! Would you increase the life expectancy of the engine? Probably not! With all things considered, your conscience probably is your best guide. Anyway good luck, which way you choose.
Happy trails, and have fun motoring,
Kay
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Hope that I never have to take up residence in one of those states that require class A or B or CDL. As an Alabama resident I am not required to have a special license for a motorhome. I had to have a chauffeurs license in Florida, as I worked where I drove large equipment, this was pre CDL. If I had remained in Florida, it would have grandfathered to CDL. But when I moved back to Alabama I had to surrender the chauffeur license to Alabama as no chauffeur license was required at the time to drive anything that was drivable in the state. Now that CDL has become federal law, I tried to upgrade to a CDL, but was refused as I became Diabetic during the course of all of the above. Now a diabetic can obtain a CDL as long as he can maintain the diabetes with the pill. I was on the pill, but I had diabetic episodes many times because of the pill. After going on insulin, never had another episode. But CDL requirements will not allow a diabetic on insulin to get a CDL, go figure.
So I guess that I will have to drive my motorhome with my good old Alabama license.
Glad you are finally legal and happy trails, Kay
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What a shame, I was is New Jersey two weeks ago, and would have been glad to check it out. Hope someone there will step up to plate, and good luck. Newell usually good and very well built.
Happy trails, Kay
American Fork, UT Recommend Shop/Mechanic?
in Buying an RV
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I am an MCI owner, and I don't know about the link, but do know a little about MCI. Parts are much easier to find than Prevost.
8V92 is a super engine, the stated mileage if correct is reasonable for the engine. I did not see transmission type.
If it is manual, you will get a little better fuel mileage. If it is an HT740 Allison, which is usually paired with 6v or 8v, question if transmission was also upgraded to accommodate 8v92 engine. The 8V71 was the most used engine in an 81 MC9.
This engine was rated at 318 horsepower, 8V92 is rated at 445 horsepower, causing my concern for transmission upgrade. Most shops that can work on older 2 cycle engines, yes, these models are two stroke engines, should be able to verify if tranny is compatible. All of these Detroit engines of this vintage, have a tendency to leak oil, so I wouldn't recommend parking on concrete driveway without a spill receptacle. I am not knocking MCI, I love mine, and wouldn't trade for anything else.
The pictures indicate that the unit is a homebrew, this isn't bad either, but a lot of attention to plumbing and electrical should be paid. If it is good, and you like the floor plan, and all the above requirements are met, also watch out for rust, some is normal, but a lot can be very expensive. Look closely at all detail before you buy, the end result should be rewarding.
The price looks pretty good, and if all is OK, this should be a nice home.
Good luck,
Kay