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benny@waskomtexas.com

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About benny@waskomtexas.com

  • Birthday 02/02/1945

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    Rolacoy
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Texas
  • Interests
    I am a commercial artist (retired).

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  1. We drive a Roadtrek and had thought about towing the jeep to Colorado, but decided that the Roadtrek was not heavy enough to make a safe trip.
  2. I traded a sports car for a Jeep Cherokee. The Jeep had been towed behind a motorhome using a Blue Ox tow bar, which I got with the Jeep. There is a sticker on the tow bar that says, "BX7335 Aventa II Tow Bar, class IV 7500, 2" receiver." We have a Class B motorhome, but I have no need for the tow bar. It is just taking up space. Does anyone know how much it is worth? Benny Alford rolacoy@me.com
  3. How do I find out when our membership renewal is due ? I know it is our fault, but we got so very little out of our membership that we probably will not join again. We joined to get into the forum and meet other owners of type "B" motor homes. For various reasons we have not attended any rallies, so we have met no one. Also, the "B" forum is almost totally inactive. http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showforum=4
  4. I have not been on this website for a while and have lost the links that I had. I am trying to find out where there might be a Roadtrek rally within, say 300 miles, in the next couple of months. I live in East Texas between Shreveport, La., and Marshall, Texas.
  5. I got the trim installed on the inside on both sides and the top. Home Depot has some outside corner trim that is used to finish an outside corner on walls inside the house. They have several choices of corner trim. I chose the plastic type with a stick on wood grain that matches the cabinets. An 8' was under $10.00. By turning it with the corner toward the A/C unit it fits against the cabinet wall. Cut them to fit but cut top to fit inside the trim across the top. The trim across the top has the corner up. Before you put the side trim in put 3 small "dabs" of silicone on the cabinet sides about where you want the trim to rest. As you slide the vertical trim in it will slide across the silicone. When the silicone cures the trim will be secure. I did not put any silicone on the top trim, it is locked in by the side trim. These fit nearly perfect and finish the inside. Now to finish the outside. All that remains is to replace the grill in the back. First pay attention to how it was originally installed ! I did not think about that. If you look at the end of the rubber molding you will see that it has a grove in the top and the bottom, they are not the same. One grove is a narrow 5/16" deep by less than 1/16". The other is nearly the same depth, but is wedge shaped. I looked at the lower grill rubber trim and decided that the narrow grove should go to the outside over the fiberglass top of the MH. The wedge shaped grove should hold the grill. I might have been wrong. I am not sure that I put mine back right, but I got it back in place. It was probably the most difficult part of the whole job. No doubt the person that puts these in at the factory would have had a good laugh watching. Clean the rubber molding, the edge of the fiberglass top and the grill. Then use a good amount of silicone spray, this will help it go back together. Now, this is how I did the job, there has got to be an easer way, don't tell me now, I don't want to know, kidding. I put the end at the bottom about in the center to start. Figure out how you want it to go on before you start, you DO NOT want to do this twice. It did not go on easy, the edge of the fiberglass is rough, it didn't want to start and the corners were tough. Once the rubber molding is in place install the grill, HeHeHeHe, sorry. I started with the top at the right side, the top went in pretty easy. At this point the grill is about 1/4" left of where it belongs. I also got part of the grill into the bottom grove. Push the grill to the right and work it into the grove on the right. the corners are a problem, but it was not too hard. Use a table knife to help work it into the grove. I didn't chose a table knife to keep from cutting the rubber molding, my hand in case it slipped. Once the right end is in place just start working the bottom of the grill into the rubber molding. Take much care and don't put much pressure inward on the grill or the rubber molding. You don't want to push the grill out of the rubber molding and inside the top of the MH. If you do that, you get to start over, not fun. With the table knife I was able to twist the knife and get about a 1/4" in at a time. The top corner and the left end of the grill went pretty easy. The bottom left was not easy. Now you have to "zip" the lock on the rubber molding together. This went pretty easy, I used the table knife and sometimes just my fingernail. You will get a lot of black off the rubber and silicone on the back of the MH. I used some rubbing alcohol to clean up. Now get down and thank God that the job is done. The job is complete using a 10,000 btu A/C. The original A/C was 7.5 btu. I ran it on the generator a couple of days ago setting in the sun. It was 95 degrees inside the MH when I started the A/C. It was about 90 outside. After running for an hour the inside temperature was 75 degrees. That was cooling the whole inside of the MH with the curtians open. If I had used the bathroom door to close off the bedroom area only it would have done much better. If you start this project and want to e-mail me to clear up any of the steps that I have listed, please do so, send your phone number and I will call you back.
  6. I don't know what to think about the frig. I have it set on "Max", it is "0" in the freezer and 40 in the lower frig, this is on Electric. The outside temp was about 90 today and the MH set in the sun this afternoon, we had clouds this morning. I put some strips of foam on the door seal, that did not help. I did not see any yellow powder. I still don't know what the "Have you moved your thermistor all the way up on the outside refrigerator fin?" is. I am not sure how they vent the frig on a Roadtrek. I don't see a "condensate drain", but will look for it.
  7. I know, I will repeat the process before we leave. I want to try using it while we are home, rather get sick here. We have done a lot of work on our MH in the last month so we will probably take a short trip for a night or two once we get it all back together and cleaned up before going to Oklahoma the end of September.
  8. I know you are right. It's just we are slow, we had our MH for two years till we ever used the shower. In a Roadtrek the shower is a curtain in the hall. I had the idea that it would cling to us, I don't like a shower curtain that touches me. But once we used it, it worked just fine. We had never lit the hot water tank till we used the shower. It was 2 1/2 years before we used the stove. Ok, our next trip I will use the water to drink. I have sanitized it several times as you indicate.
  9. We have never used our water for drinking. We carry drinking water. I would like to drink the tank water, but I'm uncomfortable doing it. I read your comments with interest.
  10. I can add some photos if anyone is interested. But I don't know how to add them.
  11. I called GE about the silicone and a tech person told me that, the old silicone is never going to cure. I asked how to remove it and he said to wipe it out and clean with "Wood Alcohol". Not too bad of a job. The biggest problem was not getting it on any part of the MH. I disassembled the pipe brace that I put in front of the A/C. I removed the wood strip that runs across, at the bottom of the A/C and put a piece of Duct Tape on the upholstery material that is below the wood strip. The un-cured silicone is a mess. Get lots of paper towels and a trash can. OK, it is cleaned out, next I tested the new tube that I bought to be sure that it would cure. I put the three spots of silicone in the back on each side. I re-placed the folded metal strip that goes on the metal lip on the condensation pan. I was glad that I did not put silicone inside the folded metal strip. It would have been very hard to remove. Inside I re-sealed the front of the condensation pan. I waited till the silicone cured, about 24 hours and reassembled the front of the A/C. I still have to put trim on the sides of the A/C and re-install the grill in the back.
  12. (Have you moved your thermistor all the way up on the outside refrigerator fin?) Wolfe, I don't know what this is. In the morning I am going to work on the MH. At that time I will go step by step in trying to find out what the problem is. I still have the thermostat set at 6 and the temperatures are "0" and 40 degrees. I am going to change it to "Max" this morning. Yesterday I looked at the Cooling Flange Part #4. There is a copper tube that comes into the frig compartment and attaches to the bottom of the cooling fins. This must be the thermostat, part #7. Also yesterday I looked for any yellow stains or power and found none. I have the unit back on Electric operation. form what I read that is the "standard". However, the temperatures do not change between LP Gas and Electric. This indicates to me that the LP Gas flame is good and the problem is "on up the line".
  13. One thing that I am convinced is that the problem is not related to the LP gas Flame, because I am getting the same temperatures with electric operation. Also this link is on the Yahoo forum concerning RV frigs: http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/Trouble/Index.htm One link shows how they work, good illustration. http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm A number of years ago I did quite a bit of art work for an ad agency who had the Arkla Gas account, they sold Servel A/C units. They were an A/C system for homes and Business that worked the same way as the RV units. I knew that our units separated water and ammonia with heat. I just didn't know how the separation unit was made. I have been told that if you operate the unit in un-level that some part of the heating unit gets too hot and small particles of metal or something form and clog up the system to the point that it will not work. I was also told that if the whole unit was taken out of the MH and turned upside down then it would work again. I don't know if these are true, a lot of crazy information can get out on the web. I think that if we go thru the steps that Wolfe suggests we will find out what the problem is. Please stay in touch Matt and let's see if we can solve this problem.
  14. Matt, Wolfe is coming up with some good suggestions. I have not taken the time to check some of the things that he suggests. I am moving slow, because I have a project going in the garage where I have built a sheet plastic room that I am air conditioning with the A/C out of the motor home. The temperature in the room is 68 degrees. The morning temperature in the motor home garage is about 74 mornings and 95 in the afternoon. We will not be using the MH until the end of September, guess where I am spending my time. I am taking care of the MH some mornings if it is cool. I have a pretty long list of things to fix on the MH before the end of September, replace the A/C (done), clean and fix the two burner stove, replace the micro wave (done), Popping Noise Underneath (in shop nest week, Repaint Side Pouch, redo Interior Cabinet Finish, Remove Left Driver Arm Rest (done), Touchup paiint Back Window, install a Shelf Above Commode, add Windshield Fluid. And of course the refrigerator. Matt, I am about at the same position as you, I do not want to have to remove the frig and it is very hard to work on it installed. I was just able to remove the cover that is over the burner, tight spot.
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