jjgnn@yahoo.com

Facing the same thing on my 2003 Country Coach, same size tire. Seven years is my limit, so I am replacing the Toyo tires that came on it. Tread still good, and no cracks, just too much age. I figure one blow out will cause a set of tires cost in damage, even if I do not wreck, so will replace them this week. Looked at Michelins, have them on all my cars, but found some questionable comments on that size tire, 22.5R12. My coach is first class, and the folks that built it really knew what they were doing, so I am going with Toyo that originally came on it, and cost about $1,200 a set less than Michelins. YMMV

Quote: "Edtied: Oh, and with a CDL class license you can have a restriction of "No Air," meaning no vehicle with air brakes. that does not apply to a regular class license. It should, since you should know about "Slack adjustment, Operating pressures, Warning buzzers, What pressure they are set for, etc., it is not all cut and dry. I drive a MH that does not have a "Park" position on the transmission. My only method of securing the vehicle is an Air Brake. Is it enough? No, you must block the wheels also because if you have a pressure leak your vehicle could roll. (Think young child) " Actually, if you lose air pressure, there is no way you CAN move an air brake equipped vehicle. Air brakes by default (no air pressure) are held firmly locked by powerful springs. When operating air pressure is applied to the brakes, those springs are compressed, allowing the wheels to turn. The "parking brake" mentioned above releases air from the brake circuit, engaging the springs to lock the brakes. It may be confusing that there are two air circuits for brakes - one applies the brakes with the brake pedal (also called the foot valve), and the other is the parking brake circuit to release air pressure and activate the parking brake springs. Chocking is never a bad idea, but for different reasons, think belt and suspenders. I also have a CDL Class A license, and like many, no longer get paid to drive, so really do not need it. It satisfies my Texas license requirement to drive my '40 diesel pusher, and am glad I have 18 wheeler experience to guide me. I keep the CDL in case I need to go to work, and can usually find a CDL job where ever I am. Of course I will have to have a current CDL physical to go to work. CDL holders are held to a higher standard, and penalties are more restrictive, so the consequences of a violation are more painful. I do not conduct myself so I get tickets (knock wood) so do not worry about that. Now, to the point of my post: Be aware if you get your RV or car inspected in Texas (an annual obligation), there is a distinction between emission controlled or non-emission controlled counties. If you originally came from an emission controlled county, or if your permanent address is in an emission restricted county, you must get an inspection for those counties. If, like me, you are in the state for a short while, and will not go through an emission restricted county this year, you must sign a statement you intend to move to a non-emission county so you can have the inspection sticker to keep Barney Fife off you. Now, I will be out of state for the next six or so months, so if I land for any time back in an emission controlled county, I will have to get my car reinspected to the more restricted rules. Not a big deal, just a hassle and about $25. (Comment raving about the government is deleted.) This information might be helpful to someone.

Good information. Thank you.

Us newbies have to stick together, for sure. These forums are great, and I have also learned a lot from the Escapees and Workamper froums. Any time you have a few days to kill, you might check there - lots of information. http://forums.workamper.com A mix of folks, lots of single lady RVers that might suit your situation. www.rvnetwork.com These guys seem to tend toward a class 8 tractor (semi truck tractor) and huge 5th weel trailers. They have lots of good info.

.........I will not lift the rear tires that high because the parking brakes are on the rear wheels! I do not trust chocks to hold the coach under those conditions. ....... Maybe I am missing something here. I have the air bag leveling system on my Country Coach 40', and they work well, but do move a bit in the wind. I have considered the hydralic jacks as an option. How in the world will the coach roll off if it is up on jacks? I suppose a high wind might put a side load on the jacks, but they should be engineered for that, or some warning about that in your instructions. Thanks for your patience with a silly question. Just trying to learn.

I agree with rainhater - also, I don't like to drive in rain, either. My Country Coach has the airbag leveling system, and I also turn it off after it says all is level. The control panel is right in the center of the front console, so the little red VERY BRIGHT LED is a constant reminder it is powered up. You might try this: After I get in position and start leveling, first I dump all air out of the system. I am in West Texas, and the wind blows me around on the air bags, so I want to be as low as possible - seems there is less motion. After exhausting the system then I punch the auto leveling control twice, and it does "the automatic leveling" thing. So, instead of letting the air out on the high side, resulting in a higer final position, it lifts the low side. My rationalle is that final "level" altitude is less. I have never measured it, so the above is pure conjecture, but it works for me. Occasionally I will notice that the water in the shower is not going to the drain completely, or where I sit in my lounger if I have a level reference outside, I can see it sagging. Then I turn the system on and have it relevel. That is a very rare occourance, probably two weeks or so between leveling adjutments. I used to live on a very tender sailboat, so a little "out of kilter" living does not bother me. When the wind (usually 35-40+ MPH) is blowing I get a little reminder of how I used to live. The airbag system works well, but very occasionally I wish I had the jacks. The slides are first concern about being level, and they are only activated when I warm the engine and level before I move, or just after I level when I park, so they are not an issue. The refrigerator (that is usually on gas, because I boondock most of the time) does not seem to care, so I must be within tolerance with that. Your system may need to be adjusted, or more probably, you may have an air leak somewhere in the system. A pleasant afternoon crawling around under the coach with soapy water may be instructive. Wear old clothes. DO NOT leave the coach running, because if you are under there when the air pressure pop off valve lets go, you will hurt yourself jumping around. Toward that end, I find that if I raise the coach as far as possible with the air bags, then turn the key off, it will stay raised for a while. Since you may have a leak, you do not want it to settle down on you, so keep moving. YMMV

I pull an old 1993 Toyota Land Cruiser four down, with at Brake Buddy because it weighs 5400 pounds. The Toyota has a tired battery, and rather than risk running it down with the Brake Buddy, and losing my brakes, I ran a #10 wire from the coach batteries to power it. I debated pulling power off of the magnetic lights I use for the towed, but decided to do a properly fused dedicated wire. An Echo charger could be powered from the coach to your dingy battery, if it was properly isolated. Works for me, YMMV

Used vodka once to deice a frozen up window washing system after a very chilly week at a ski resort. That car still stank of booze until the day it was totaled five years later. Never could get the smell out of the system, considered replacing it, but did not. Not recommended, unless you like winos chasing you down the street.

When I bought my Class A the seller recommended Progressive. I shopped around and found Geico was almost exactly twice as much as Progressive. Went with Progressive. Then, when I needed to renew insurance for my car, decided to try Progressive. My EX WIFE had an accident the previous year, and because of that Progressive rated me on my insurance. Duh. Went with Liberty Insurance, as they saw no need to rate me for someone else's accident since that person was not a designated driver on my policy. About half as much as Progressive. I still have Progressive on the Class A, and we will discuss the rate when it comes due. I wonder if it is just a flip of the coin if you get the guy that did not have coffee that morning, or had a fight with his wife? Sorry, I know better, but it is obvious that a person needs to shop around. A lot.