frenchie

How about an old dust mop handle? Been using this for years and can double as an awning rod if needed.

A bit more info. This is taken from the invoice I received today. " C2112 ISC AND ISL CM2250 365HP AND HIGHER EMISSION RECALL CAMPAIGN"

Seems Cummins has a recent recall campaign that isn't getting a lot of attention. "Recall" is a Federal compliance recall number C2112 dated March 19, 2019 for some ISL 9/10 engines. Two used coaches I checked on, a 2012 Allegro Bus 40 QSH and (the one I just purchased) a 2011 Allegro Bus 43QBH both are covered. The dealers claimed no knowledge of the recall. Am I ever glad I did my own recall check by running the engine and transmission serial numbers by manufactures. Seems you cannot rely of the chassis builder to get serial numbers back to them. Anyway my Bus is at Cummins for the recall work. Takes about a week to complete due to lead times for parts. Seems this involves replacing some very expensive emission system parts. Cummins picks up the cost.....about $2000.00. Don't quote me on this, but I asked Cummins what years are covered by the recall. They were a bit vague, 2010, 2011, 2012 ish...Suggest folks give Cummins Customer Care 800-286-6467 a call with their ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER.

You bet. Now how was your issue fixed??? Inquiring minds need to know LOL I am referring to your inverter and frig issue.

Hopefully you have resolved the issue. If not, suggest you check out the battery (house to chassis) solenoid. This device connects the engine alternator to the house batteries after the ignition switch is turned on. Had a problem a bit like yours in my 08 Phaeton. Assuming your coach uses a mechanical solenoid, the contacts in the solenoid become pitted over time and develop high resistance. If your 2010 Phaeton is wired like mine, you also have the same type of solenoid supplying power to your mechanical slides. These can be found on the internet for about $30. Just Google the part number written on the side of the device. Also check the house battery voltage monitor with the engine off, no shore power, and generator not running, lets say its around 12.4 VDC. Now start the coach engine, wait a few minutes. The engine alternator voltage gauge (instrument panel) will climb to normal charge. Now check the house battery voltage. It should jump up about a volt or more (depending on charge state of chassis and house batteries) now connected in parallel. I like to keep a spare solenoid just in case. They are used for several different things in these coaches and tend to fail over time. You will find them in the electrical bay near the engine.

Thanks I finally got it figured out. Removing the plastic front cover was a pain. Both buttons on the top of the light must be pressed down at the same time while gently prying out the cover by slipping shim between the lamp face and plastic cover.....ever so gently!! The plastic latch (button) on the bottom also released using the same method. Broke the bottom plastic hinge pin...no biggie a drop or two of silicone caulk on the bottom of the fixture worked fine. A few pix for reference.

Help! I have a blown lamp in my factory installed Guest remote control spotlight. (2008 Phaeton) Tiffin has been of of little assistance other than to tell me the rectangular lamp used is no longer supported. After a few hours on the net, seems I have a Guest 22200 spotlight. Thing is I can't seem to be able to remove the front trim to get to the bulb. There seems to be two tabs on the top and one on the bottom. I should be able to press on them and the front plastic frame should slide out....NO JOY!! I tried a little silicone spray around the tabs. Again no success. This light does not have any screws visible. I don't want to break the plastic shroud in an attempt to "fix" it. I found a replacement lamp on line. Now I need to get the darn thing apart!!!

Welcome from the Nutmeg state!!!! We started with a tent, then a VW "breadbox", on to a pop up towed by the VW van air cooled 60 hp , two Class C's and now on our second Class A pusher. Loved all of them.

Folks seems we got off the subject, that said, I understand that these batteries were developed by DOD for stuff that goes under the water AKA submarines. Being from the North it's great that they don't freeze (till about minus 100F) and in effect, don't self discharge . I have 6 ea in my 08 Phaeton. Anybody have any experience on how long they last? I understand the "number of cycles thing" but in real world terms what can we expect as average life?

If you are still not comfortable with your set up, give Lifeline a call. They are very willing to help.