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aztec7fan

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Posts posted by aztec7fan


  1. A couple of things: check the age and condition of your house batteries and engine battery.  Bad batteries can cause a host of problems, even if you are plugged in.  While there, check the battery cables for corrosion and tightness.  

    If the batteries and connections there are good, start tracing where you do have power and where you dont.  Having a multimeter will help alot when doing this troubleshooting.

    Also, start looking for, and checking circuit breakers, fuses, and any evidence of wire damage from rubbing or rodents.  Also check the GFCI outlets (bathroom, kitchen) to see if they need to be reset.

     

    Join as many Fleetwood groups as you can on Facebook, iRV2.com and elsewhere.  They may have wiring diagrams, manuals, and troubleshooting tips for coaches very similar to yours.


  2. I know in Colorado, chains are required to be carried from Sept 1st to may 31st.  I did some quick googling, but couldnt find any date restrictions in utah, california or wyoming.

    Chains are relatively cheap.  I always carry a set with me in my motorhome as well as spider bungie cords.  Haven't had to use them yet, but there have been a few times i thought i might need them.


  3. One thing to also check is the fan clutch.  If this device is stuck in the on position, it will add a sigificant amount of noise from the engine.  I had it happen more than once on my chevy chassis motorhomes.

    It should only come on when the engine needs additional cooling such as climbing hills and slow traffic.


  4. I cant comment too much on the price since ive never had a shop do that extensive work on my motorhome (yet).  I also have a 2003 class A motorhome (National Dolphin on the Workhorse chassis).  I can tell you i recently had one of my rear hub seals replaced which came to $167.00, and he did a brake inspection for free.  I also had the front shocks replaced for $550.00, and i recieved a quote to replace the front leaf springs (one is weak enough it sometimes hits the bump stop) for $2,500.00.  I need to wait on that until i get enough $$ for it.

    I agree with previous quotes that you should maybe look at the worn/damaged parts, possibly before the repair is done.  That way, maybe you can confirm that the work is necessary, and keep the mechanic honest.  

    -chris g.


  5. 'Course, this thread reminds me of the song Wolf Creek Pass by C.W. McCall:

    Well, Earl grabbed on the shifter
    And he stabbed her into fifth gear
    And then the chromium plated
    Fully illuminated
    Genuine accessory shift knob
    Come right off in his hand
    I says, "You wanna screw that thing back on, Earl?"
    He was tryin' to thread it on there
    When the fire fell off a' his cigar
    And dropped on down
    Sorta rolled around
    And then lit in the cuff of Earl's pants
    And burned a hole in his sock
    Yeah, sorta set him right on fire


  6. I don't think there will me many upgrades you will need for a while.  You can always add accessories like solar panels, outside lighting, who knows what? 

    Since you've already been RVing, you know what is important to you when camping/traveling. Duplicate that "stuff" first, then start thinking what is different about the motorhome. 

    Tools and spare parts might be important, depending on your mechanical ability.  You will need to concentrate much more on your tires, their age, condition, and inflation.  Check them cold before each trip.  Weigh your coach to make sure the tires are inflated properly for your weight. 

    Most important, take time to enjoy your new purchase!  


  7. 52 minutes ago, tireman9 said:

    A 235/80R22.5  LR-G (110 psi)  is rated 4675 single  and 4300 dual     Design rim width  6.75  Dual spacing    10.31  (< from Industry chart)

    a 275/70R22.5  LR-H (125 psi) is rated would be rated 6940  single   6395 dual  Rim 7.5    Spacing   11.9   (< from GY chart)

    Your axle weights are very light!  Are you sure the RV was fully loaded?

    I am a bit concerned with rim width and more concerned with dual spacing.  The duals MUST have at lease an inch clearance at the bottom (near road surface).

     

    Yes 4 corner weights are hard to get but you can use axle scale reading and assume one end of the axle is supporting 52% of the load.  Use that load to check the tables to learn the MINIMUM inflation needed.   Add 10% to that Minimum with 15% inflation margin being better.

     

    Hope this helps

    Thanks tireman.  I have checked the spacing in the duals, and they look "ok", but I can't confirm if it's a full inch.  I'll have to measure it this weekend.

    The Rv was loaded for a short weekend trip.  The fresh water and holding tanks were all about 1/3 full, and fuel was full.  Most of our usual "stuff" was loaded, so I would say the weight was typical of most of our trips.

     


  8. I realize this is a post from last year, but thought I'd comment.  Removing the dinette will improve usability for you folks, but may reduce the re-sale value down the road.   We just upgraded to a newer unit, but as we were searching, we eliminated any coaches without a dinette.  We still have guests who may travel with us at times, and the extra sleeping area is important to us.

    Just my 2 cents.


  9. I suspect you will need to purchase it during the week, so you can go to the DMV in purchase state to show the title and bill of sale and maybe your auto insurance (call your insurance with the vin #) to get a temp tag in that state.

    You will still need to title and register it in your home state and pay state/county taxes on the purchase.

    I purchased out of state, but from a dealer, and they got me the temp tag onsite.


  10. On 3/11/2021 at 7:25 AM, richard5933 said:

    Curious if you checked out the route before following the GPS? There are a few good resources for finding out about the grades before heading into the hill/mountains.

    I've been on a thread over on iRV2 recently discussing GPS units, and I was reminded over there that a lot of people just plop the destination into the GPS and follow. Not always a good plan unless you do a bit of further research, as you seem to have discovered.

    Yes, any trips we plan, we start with the paper rand McNally map.  We only use the GPS to see if there are any delays and for estimated drive time and milage. 


  11. I can't speak on the diesel portion of your post, since we prefer gas units, but I certainly agree with the other posts that layout is the most important thing.  We just purchased a 2003 Dolphin, and probably looked at several thousand coaches (online), before falling in love with this unit.

         We really wanted the corner sink and the full dinette and sleeper couch to have enough room for our kids and/or guests to sleep when they stayed with us.  We also love the hard shower and bedroom doors (no curtains).


  12. Rayin, so what are your thoughts on the current axel weights (sorry no corner weights) on my motorhome and the specifications on the Prinx tire chart.  Would you say these tires are under-rated and/or I am over-loaded for these tires given the current weight? Also, at this current weight, my thought is to continue to inflate to max pressure of 130psi.

    Thanks for allowing me to keep picking your brain(s).

    Regards,
    Chris G.

    Weight_ticket.jpg

    Tire inflation table.jpg

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