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jleamont

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Posts posted by jleamont

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Suzzanne, we also have a Monaco product, we have two different electrical outlets behind the fridge, One has 120VAC when connected to shore power, generator is on or the Inverter is on. The other....well I am not sure, the one time I checked it it had no power, since I only needed one for the new fridge I plugged into the other outlet.

    Originally I believe the fans above the old fridge were connected to the outlet with "no power".

    On ours you can see these by removing the outside wall vent cover and looking up and to the left.

    It would be best to check them with a volt meter if you are comfortable doing so.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Sooooo if I am reading this correctly..... there are no access panels in the floor of your coach? :blink:

    I would also recomend thay clean out the radiator and CAC that is good maintenance.

    All of the rear radiator units we had looked at either had a large door under the bed or a few access panels in the floor some were hidden.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Suzzanne, we also have a residential fridge with our coach running off of the inverter, no solar (I did consider it) we use ours going down the road all the time, the chassis engine keeps the house batteries charged. When we park the generator is set to auto start at 65% and auto shut down at 96% if we are not plugged into shore power. Please report back on how the solar system keeps the batteries I am curious.

    Now back to the no power issue, check your circuit breakers and GFI outlets within the coach sounds like one is tripped. especially since one side has no power.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Good info Rich. So what did you do?

    Here's my story around hot water heaters in RV's

    Our last coach had a 6 gallon Atwood gas only hot water heater. I removed it and tossed into the trash, honestly the DW told me if she ever takes a cold shower (and she likes to shower long) the coach will GO AWAY.

    So after testing it a few times and only having hot water for a few minutes I decided to pull the unit and replace it with a tankless, best idea I ever had (i got to keep that coach for 6 years. The unit required no regular maintenance and was very efficient on propane.

    Now with latest coach it has the Hydronic system we still have the ability to take long showers, but she picked this coach so if it could not not keep up with her showers I would hang my hat on that....I am still sure I would loose.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Caution with regards around safety. Your chassis was crash tested to work in conjunction with the seats, frames and occupant ride height etc in the cab all engineered and installed by GM and passed testing mandated by the feds. I would hate to hear of a passenger becoming injured due to the space requirements or structure set by GM if they were compromised by an unauthorized modification.

    Maybe someone makes a seat base for your cab that is authorized by GM to be installed into it? At least they have paperwork authorizing their product to be installed into your cab to work in conjunction with the dash height etc.

    I would pass on the idea of fabricating something that would fit.

    I had a request a few years ago and the OEM would not allow us to replace the seats in a cab with seats that they offered as an option, it became a big deal over what I thought was a simple request.

    Just my two cents.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    We had a Regular C or "Mini" 31' on a Ford chassis as our first RV. I loved the cab feel and the ease of maintenance. Since I have worked on both in the past for a living (chassis at a dealer) I felt more comfortable with the purchase of the C. With the problems we had with RV body/cab mounting you would have to work very hard to sell me another "C", that left a bad taste in my mouth. If our's was the only one I saw or heard of with the problems listed below I would be willing to give it another try but we were just another one in the crowd with the same complaints.

    We had so many problems with the cab moving at a different rate than the body (two different manufactures engineer's trying for a common goal was a failure) causing the front body wall to fail where the cab mounted, bunk starting to fail from the weight overhanging the cab with inadequate support. It was a nice unit in the beginning but time and the nice roads we drive on placed one heck of a beating on that poor coach.

    I have two friends now with C's one with a mini (31' on a Ford 2010 model year with 20k miles) and another on a Freightliner (2011 with 40,000 miles), both are just starting to have structural failure, the Fleetwood (mini) started first with a rear wall splitting and the roof shearing the mounting screws off where the bunk attached from the chassis twist and the Dynamax (Super) has started with the front wall to cab mounting.

    While I do love the ease of maintenance, the car/truck feel from the drivers seat and the look I will never do that again, its hard to get one engineering team to talk to each other and develop a good design that will last, trying to get two that have never met to discuss chassis and cab deflection is impossible.

    Do super C's have air suspension in the front now, just curious?

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Herman thanks, I was just curious to see if they carry any parts over from one model to another to save on cost and engineering, I guess not.

    Thanks Brett, next go round I will most likely install a Donaldson to save the money.

    Ours is a Fleetguard AH8503 or Donaldson P537448

  13. Posted · Report reply

    have you changed the fuel filter?

    Double check with Newmar how many fuel filters are on the generator fuel line circuit from the tank to the generator.

    I believe we have the same generator and your is only one year newer, you can tell if the fan is spinning by running the unit and slide under the coach slowly, you should feel air rushing downward or pulling upward, the fan is located toward the front of the generator, while you are underneath the front of the generator has the air filter access with a wingnut, it sites up inside a cavity, I would double check that is not clogged (Engine off for that).

    The reason I mentioned this; we have filter inside the case on the generator and one fuel water separator hidden above the coach fuel tank, on the the side that the compartment door does not open without removing it. I found it by accident when I had to change the fuel lines to the Coach engine. It was so old all I could see was rust and a glass bowl full of sediment.

    I suspect no one knew it existed so it was missed at its service intervals.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Herman, does your coach take the same filter as mine....same year, engine and manufacture, different model, just curious?

    I bought mine from Ryder on line parts sales then. At the time all I could find was a K&N kit to remove the existing filter guts and replace with theirs which was'nt going to happen under any circumstance. Ryder had one in stock then, I have since found other options.

    At the time I needed one bad, I just had purchased the unit "turn key ready to go" on the 1st trip the filter indicator pulled into the red.

    post-39881-0-96089700-1433962259_thumb.j

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Parking Brake switch. Had mine do that a little over a month ago. On my Camelot I found a relay labeled Parking Brake Alarm. I simply removed it until the new switch came in and that shut up the alarm. Changing the switch took about 10 minutes and fixed everything.

    BennieH, funny you mentioned this. I had the alarm activate when I hit a bump one trip a few months back, when I stepped on the brake it went out. I thought it was strange and it hasnt happened since.

    Where was your switch located?

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Just curious, I have no experience with any system other than the traditional sewer hose. I have a Rhino Flex 3" 15' with an additional 15' in storage if needed. I have family that use to camp and had a Macerator unit and I was told they are the greatest and i should go and get one, but I do not see a need for it.

    I have never had a sewer problem, leak or any reason to look into another way of emptying my tanks, honestly my hands have never gotten wet in the process, unless the hose was wet from rain water on its exterior.

    Am I missing something?

  19. Posted · Report reply

    What was the $166.00 for?

    $166.00 was for the filter, I bought the last one on-line and it was a OEM Fleetguard. Hopefully it lasts a few years. Just might if I stay out of campgrounds with unpaved roads (different post). :)

    I was able to locate a Donaldson and a Wix replacement since for $50.00 less not sure of the quality, the unit is sealed into that metal canister pictured above.

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