jleamont
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Posts posted by jleamont
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Check the exhaust manifold bolts, I bought a F250 a few years ago with a V10 that a mechanic told the customer the engine was bad, it only had an exhaust leak caused by broken manifold bolts at the cylinder heads. Very common on this and the 4.6L and 5.4L engines. Ford makes Stainless steel upgrades you can purchase from a Ford Dealer.
On an E-Series remove the interior engine cover (dog box) and look down both Manifolds.
As far as the vacuum, sounds like a minor leak somewhere. I had a class C with a V10 and I never lost vacuum climbing hills.
On these its usually the PCV hose becomes brittle, it is located on the passenger side valve cover, (connects the throttle body to the PCV valve) if you squeeze it it will feel like mush in your hands, replace it with the PCV valve, it just might fix your concern.
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There was a problem with the shifter wiring harness chaffing on top of the steering column, it seems to happen every so often on most Fords. Either way it sounds like a warranty job, I recomend taking it to the dealer to facilitate the repair.
Just curious is it a Class C Econoline chassis?
Either way I would use the tow haul feature in most cases just from the shear weight of the unit, especially when towing, the engine braking feature will help you get it stopped.
Joe
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Changing it wasn't the worse part, digesting $166.00 was. although it did take me almost 1/2 hour and some tricky maneuvers to get it out.
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Agreed! Maximum speed for me is 65, I also have a class A CDL if I get stopped there's no excuses that I can hang my hat on.My mistake. If the vehicle weighs 26,000.5 pounds just a regular license is required but if it gets to 26,001 pounds or more a Class B or A is required depending on what is being towed. (Don't y'all love technicalities!)
I had a Class A CDL. There is no forgiveness if a person obtains a ticket and they have a CDL. No deferred adjudication, no defensive driving. Pay the fine or go to court (and pay the fine). Since I was not driving commercially anymore I converted it to a Class A drivers license.
Searches on the subject of the higher class licenses, A or B, and reading up on it, the commercial drivers license manual is the one that the Class A or B licenses is tested. Granted, many items are left out of the standard Class A or B testing questions, but if one really wants to understand the rules of the road the CDL manual is a very good reference. Even those whose MH's are below the Class A or B limit would benefit reading the CDL manual.
Houston's fine for 1-5 mph over speed limit is $194.
Plus my steer tires are only rated to ....I think 75, but my wallet is only rated to 60, to much wasted fuel to push it.
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Walt what engine do you have and what went wrong? Symptoms etc?The early 98 to 02 ISC CAPS fuel control engines did have problems on some of the engines, I have one that had the problem. The later HPRC engines solved that problem from 03 forward .
Walt
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Puff, I would have though that was a side mounted radiator on a Monaco of that size. When we were looking I wanted a rear radiator, my thought was to keep it simple, less to go wrong.
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Love the sound of the 6v and 8v Detroits, it's kinda like a rolling thunder sound that means business.
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Tom, agreed. I do love the ease of the engine access with the side radiator. I am going to see if there is any air blockage from dirt, given the operating temperature, if there is it's not much.
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ObedB, I thought about that, I guess I will have to be a bit choosier where I park.
Honestly, campgrounds without paved roads are a dust bowl either way, I hate when you’re sitting by a fire and someone rolls through at a high rate of speed in a golf cart or passenger car and stirs up the dust also, it doesn't taste good in your drink either.
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Spoke to Monaco tech support, very helpful as usual. Since the fan is not roaring on a cold start it is not stuck on high, if it had been, on a cold start the fan would be screaming immediately. It is a Variable speed with a control valve that is hooked into the cooling system, as the temp of the engine rises the valve sends more hydraulic fluid to the fan motor which makes it spin faster. My fan motor is a Sauer Sundstrand.
They feel it is operating as designed and he told me at most just make sure there is no debris blocking air flow through the radiator which will make the fan work harder. I will have to try to look through with a flashlight.
Thank you everyone.
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The only negative I had heard with the Cummins was exhaust manifolds cracking on the ISC and the CAPS fuel injection pumps failing prematurally around 300,000 miles, and I forget what year that was introduced and replaced with the common rail design, all I know is my 2002/2001 engine has it, and it didnt scare me away. I got that from our Cummins rep at work. I figured at 300,000 miles the unit would be long past due for replacement.
Obedb, no sides here note the "F" in FMCA, its all good..Family/Friends as far as I am concerned.
But....you mean if its on the internet it might not be true?
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Tom, do you hear it while driving down the highway? Once its on I always hear it, It may be normal but I want to double check the system.
I just figured since the air is not forced through the radiator like a front mounted engine, the fan would engage once up to operating temp and maintain a speed close to the engine RPM's, or at least that is what it is doing. The other concern is I have never driven the coach in ambient temps below 55 degrees, so it may be working properly just the conditions we run may not allow it to slow down.
I can see the motor and it looked new from the rear of the coach looking forward on the drivers side.
On hold with Monaco at this time....more to follow.
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I have been following this post and your last comment put a big smile on my face. I have to say.......Congratulations! Enjoy, like Herman said, "don't forget to wave"
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Hmmm, when I start it up it is not on until the engine warms up, but then it is always on, or should I say I always hear it even at hot idle it's moving a lot of Air. So I would say yes It's stuck on high? Anyway to test? Guess it's time to call Monaco
Thanks
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I wanted to know if I have a problem or if this is normal. Every time we drive into a campground that is not paved after pulling off of the highway, we stir up a tremendous dust cloud which causes the rear of the coach to disappear into a cloud. This get frustrating since I just washed it prior to leaving and it did look nice.
I was trying to figure out if a lower portion of my shroud was missing and the air was dropping down or if this was normal?
My temps run at 185 degrees except when pulling large hills it will climb to just shy of 200 degrees so I do not feel there is a lack of cooling.
Anyone else have this issue?
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Well said Brett!
I have seen many diesels killed, not worn out, some by design defects, most from lack of proper maintenance or someone tinkering with HP and torque.
Valve adjustment is good preventative maintenance, as soon as I have the ambition I’m going through mine, I already bought the barring tool. Trying to find the ambition.....still haven’t found it.
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mangotango,
I tow a 2003 Wrangler behind our diesel, no issues what so ever, in fact I keep the camera on so I know its still back there.
I did have to get a hitch riser so the tow bar would level out and the jeep is lifted with large tires, I expected it to be an issue but its not.
I use a Demco Commander tow bar.
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I do not miss those days. As a Fleet Maintenance Manager now it's a headache in other areas, just not those.
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ObedB, we pulled ours out two months ago. It was located in the back corner of the bedroom. Ours was a Spendid 2000 series, it had a bad water valve and would fill up and overflow on it's own. Since the water valve was no longer available I removed it and scrapped it. We needed more drawer space anyway for the kids so I went to our local Amish furniture shop and located a drawer unit that fit nice.
My wife has no problems using the facilities at the campground so the decision was easy. If it was a stacked unit I probably would have replaced it. the combo units are to small for a family of four.
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Begall, I agree with rossboyer, check your GFI outlets inside the unit. Our old Coachmen had the GFI outlet in the bathroom sink area tripped once and our fridge would not work on A/C.
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Rich,
When the compressor is running is your low side pulling down (usually around 35-20 PSI indicates good suction from the compressor) and the high side rising?
Do you know if it is equipped with an expansion valve or an orifice tube?
Sounds like you do not have a leak, more like a blockage.
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Rich, same as kaypsmith. When I bought ours the dash A/C worked great, about a week later it was low on freon and cycling. I couldn't tell it was the compressor until I removed it, the freon and compressor oil were leaking onto my Fuel injection pump just behind the gear housing.
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Ray, is this an FYI or did you just complete a course in the School of hard knocks?
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Dale,
We use the drop in pouches, which ever seem to be the cheapest. They all seem to perform equally.
Our old coach had severe interior odors from the black tank, strong enough that the small fan in bathroom couldn't keep up. I started to look into why and discovered that Coachmen had the black and gray tank vents connected to a "Y" in the wall and a single roof vent. Upon further discovery none of the fittings on the plastic pipe were glued above the floor level, just press fitted. Rather than opening the walls the rest of the way to fix I tried the same gadget Herman has and it solved our problems.
The only problem I had with the swivel vent was when we covered the unit it took a beating, I tried to protect it but I found replacing it every season was a routine I just had to face.
Side Mounted Fans
in Chassis
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My exhaust has a 90 on it already it points directly back...helps with fuel econony, like a turbine on a jet.
Sorry, thats what the dealer told me when we went to look at it before we purchased it. The only problem is if you walk past to close it will get your leg every time.