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I used Flying J almost exclusively during the last 20 years of my trucking career and have never had any problems with their fuel. They pump so much fuel daily that it doesn't stay in the ground long enough to spoil. Their pumps are normally the fastest that you will find. Thirty minutes for 97 gallons suggests the pump filter was long overdue for change and that is uncommon, but the filter was doing it's job. Not saying that the J was not at fault, but I doubt it. Now that we have a DP that sometimes takes us away from the high volume stops, I always fill a fruit jar with fuel and inspect it before I fill our tank. A small funnel gets the sample into the tank. I use Power Service and Lucas Injector Cleaner at every fill.

That is a nice looking coach. Hope the engine has a turbo. I remember the naturally aspirated 3208 smoking like a train. Stay tuned in to this website. There are a lot of knowledgeable members here.

I tow a Subaru Forester with a five speed manual tranny. I do know that Blue Ox base plates are available for late model Foresters and Outbacks and a manual is a must. Without the rear monitor, I wouldn't know that it was back there. I certainly wish that I had figured out the freedom of towing a dinghy when we bought our first Class A in 1988.

We own a 2003 Phaeton. I had the opportunity to look over a 2002 Foretravel on our first trip west in the Phaeton. I wish that I had settled for nothing less, although it would have cost me considerably more.

Thanks Brett. Both he and his son are skilled mechanics. They worked on my last two trucks. I sent him the link you supplied.

A friend is starting the search for a used DP. He has been a truck mechanic all of his adult life and still owns a public truck garage. He noticed a nearby 98 Beaver low miles. They were once a sought after coach, but didn't the company start to have $$$ problems? Is that year worth a look for him?

Perhaps you already know/just in case- you will need ironclad proof of rabies vaccination for your dog to get into Canada.

If you visit the Michelin websites you will discover that the XZA3 was developed to be a linehaul steer tire for the trucking industry. There is no reason you shouldn't run those tires on your rear axles on a DP, but I don't believe that they have the special compounds that are used in the true XRV tire. As I indicated, I went with the XZE model all around knowing that they didn't have the compounds that are considered favorable for the way RV tires are used. Trucking companies that are likely to need better winter traction (almost all long distance carriers or companies doing most of their business up north) run different tires on drive axles. As a trucker, I often got 300,000 miles on drives and with premium steers (as XZA3 are) running long distance trips, 200,000 miles of use was possible. For truckers better fuel mileage has been a benefit when using drive tires resembling steer tread patterns, but they had to be able to handle the high torque modern high displacement diesels deliver. If I was lucky enough to afford a high end DP with one of those engines for power, I would look at different tires for drive axle use.

XZA tires tires are primarily steer tires I believe. Tires built for RV use are designated XRV or did I miss something?

We travel with a full fresh water tank this time of the year. As we head home from Colorado to PA in November, many parks will be closed. Might have to rough it in a state park or Walmart lot. I always dump gray water before leaving a campground with hooks or a dump station.

Correction on the Shurflo accumulator tank at Camping World/ $51.49. The reviews are positive, Shurflo also markets a 2 gallon stainless accumulator tank that sells for around $120. I may take a look at that one, because I remember how well the large tank I used in our first coach worked.

I replaced the original pump on our 2003 Phaeton in an RV park last Wednesday. The old pump got really noisy and the flow reduced noticeably. The screen was not plugged. Guess it was just old. Installed a new Shurflo bypass pump. Two days later it started to act up. Everything was correctly installed . Not my first time. Pump trouble shooting guide suggested mechanism adjustment, and I would probably have had to remove it to do that. Just happen to have a new expansion or accumulator tank with us. It is pre-charged to 30psi , but the pressure is adjustable. Took about thirty minutes to install. Pump now better than ever. The tanks do work. I installed one near the pump in our 1988 gasser shortly after buying it new. It was a much larger unit sized for residential use, and we could get close to a gallon of flow without turning the pump on. Kept things quitet when my DW was sleeping. The Shurflo tank is around $60 at Camping World.

Put 6 new Michelin XZE 255/80/22.5 on our 2003 Phaeton 40 last June. They are more available than XRV tires and probably easier to find if a road failure happens. Unit handles well on curves and in cross winds. Saved $100 a tire through FMCA. Pay any labor and parts separately. Dealer told me that it would be higher if all charges were on one invoice.

RV diesels seem to develop problems earlier in their life than the big rig engines that I am used to. That observation is based on all that I have read on the internet about DPs. Just throwing this out there: I have heard of water pump impellers on high mileage truck engines corroding to the point that they just aren't moving enough coolant. Not common, but it does happen. Also charge air coolers are a failure item on big rigs. Some are checked as a precaution. Others are checked when serious engine work occurs. Could a leaking CAC cause over heating?? I don't know. Power loss, yes. But?

I am now using Power Service winter formula because it does get cold in Colorado this time of the year. Did not use it my Western Star as an owner operator, because the local favorite was Howes. I have seen it do it's magic while gazing into a saddle tank. When I put our Phaeton to bed for the winter, I will probably add some Howes just in case I have to move it over the winter. Yes Brett, the manifold heater will be repaired as soon as we get home, just in case.

Engine (3126 Cat) was running like a dream yesterday. Gross is a little over 32,000 and the ten mile pull with a lot of it at 7% yielded a top speed of 45 with engine temp in low normal range. I eased off of the accelerator a bit to settle in between 35 to 40. Richard/ I am reluctant to stop the additives as a test, to see if the previously mentioned problems start again. Wolf Creek pass is fun when engines are running well.

Detroit's Series60 is a very good engine. I know that they are available in Prevost conversions. Take a look at at them as a used DP.

In Pennsylvania, a good or high resolution picture from a digital camera or cell phone of the vin along with the manufacturers weight ratings works at tag and title agencies that seem to be common in the state. They are for profit companies and are often easier to deal with than Penn Dot. We have lived in PA for 38 years and have used them many times. By helping the customer, they profit.

I find myself longing for a coach with a side radiator. I wish I had done some research on the advantages. A new owner of a 2002 Foretravel 36ft DP that was factory refurbished before he bought it made me envious. Side radiator resulting in generous access to the engine, as well as a lift able bed that affords generous access to the top of the engine. Seems to me that dirty radiators and charge air coolers would be easily cleaned. Plus two speed radiator fans that can be turned off on cool days saving fuel and turned on in advance of a hard pull. Perhaps problems like Glenn's would be minimized? By the way the 2002 Foretravel was considerably more expensive as a used RV then our 2003 Phaeton. Am I wrong about the advantages of that configuration?

Our Cat idled rough enough to be almost embarrassing. I waited a short while and then set it at a grand to make it sound better. When I started it in Durango on Thursday morning I noticed immediately that the tach was not doing a dance. I will keep adding Lucas for a while and always add Power Service because research tells me it is worth it. Huffy Puf got me interested in it. The product has been around since the 50's I think. Where additives are displayed Power Service is always prominent. It adds 7 cents a gallon to cost. Heading over Wolf Creek on Monday. Looking forward to a better running engine. Knock on Wood. Went over and back from Pagosa Springs today in our toad. What a beautiful ride. Stress free in a Subaru Forester. Talked to a fellow trucker up top from my home state of PA. Had 100 pound bags of potatoes on. Just shy of 80,000 lbs. gross. 7% most of the way down to that sweeping right hand curve. Oh well! Yes, I miss it! As always, thanks for your interest and knowledge.

Engine still starts quickly with no smoke using the block heater, and "knock on wood" the rough idle has stopped. I have been using Power Service since starting the long trip we are on, but two fuel stops ago I started using Lucas Injector Cleaner at 150% the minimum level. Sure hopes this keeps up. I am gonna buy it by the gallon and use the leftover quart bottles to measure Power Service and Lucas dosage. Anyone else have any experience wit the Lucas product?

I would like to know how this poorly handling Beaver Coach problem is remedied. It could help members out with similar symptoms. I hope that Glenn will let us know how he solves things and about what it costs. Herman/ You obviously have a great sense of humor and I applaud that. Mine isn't bad. BUT!! We bought a new Georgie Boy 34 in 1988 with problems from the gitgo. So when we bought a newer DP built by a respected manufacturer, we expected greater reliability. Ours has some issues and I observe that owners of other brands also do. Is there evolution or just the same old same old with more expensive features? We still love our comfort in this unit. We hope that we can continue to afford that comfort.

I spent part of my trucking career as an owner operator and a buddy of mine who owned an older rig made the observation that with your own truck, you are either in them or under them. Mine was much newer, but while doing PMs, I got to know what even a newer rig looks like from underneath. I don't mind working on my 2003 Phaeton and you are right, it is a good way to sneak away to the storage lot when we are home. My DW is not computer literate or I would not be writing this.

NOW that really hurts!!! Guess you will just have to learn to drive 55. I wouldn't though. If a good shop told me that it was probably the gear, I would replace it. Why would a premium coach builder put on an important part that can't serve their customer for the long haul? Motorhomes are a hodgepodge.

Adjustable drag links seem to less and less common today. Even on 18 wheelers. Back in the day trucks came with a field adjustable steering gear and the frame next to the gear had a hole in it to get to the adjuster. Adjustable draglinks were also the norm. I have never had to reposition the pitman arm on the box, but a good front end man would have the tool to reposition the pitman arm after the steering wheel has been centered by counting lock to lock and dividing by 2. If you have a smart wheel you may not want it messed with. I just reread your post. Thought your caster had been checked. Find a good alignment shop that will work on motorhomes. Let them check everything out for good working order or possible road damage. You do need some positive caster for good handling, and specs vary. I would spend the money on steering gear adjustment.