bikeryder

I just stumbled onto this topic, and I must agree, the FMCA member number egg with vinyl sticker [whether or not it peels off] appears to be cheaply made, which it is. When I originally joined FMCA the first thing I did after receiving my membership package, with the less than stellar looking FMCA member number eggs, was to order the injection molded raised number oval egg set. I am so glad I did, as these injection molded plates do not look as though they were purchased at a dollar store bargain bin. It is sad FMCA membership department does not listen carefully to its membership base, especially the newest members amongst us. The only sure way to grow your member base is by listening. If it is a matter of money, then simply charge accordingly the first year of membership, and include FMCA injection molded raised member number egg, doing away the bargain basement vinyl sticker version. Those are my two cents... Eddie

Thanks for the additional info, wildebill308. That's something else for me to see and learn. Any additional knowledge I can gather and can help others is greatly appreciated. Eddie

SUCCESS! Thank you all who replied. The solution was a breaker at the inverter! I didn't know of these but, now I do. You guys are amazing. For those who like me may not be familiar with these breakers, I've enclosed pics of my inverter and the breakers. You can see the tripped circuit breaker on AC 2 OUT

Yesterday I inadvertently plugged my single burner hot plate into receptacle on my 2003 Monaco Cayman while 2 space heaters were plugged in [dumb I know]. Immediately the circuit popped, living room TV shut off as well as hot plate and both space heaters. One space heater was plugged into bathroom receptacle which is GFCI, another space heater was plugged into wall receptacle just outside the dinette booth. In all four wall receptacles inside coach are dead, with another receptacle down in cargo bay also dead. Both the living room and bedroom TVs Do not have power. The first thing I tried was toggling all the circuit breakers in bedroom, this did not remedy the problem. Also the existing GFCI outlet [which is located at bathroom sink], the test and reset buttons seemed to not have the feel of a solid click. The test button when pressed did not give off an audible sound. So I thought why not replace the 20 amp GFCI outlet which [after turning power off] I did. After taking my time to ensure everything was wired correctly, I turned power back on, same problem exists. Although the newly installed GFCI outlet has reset and test buttons which feel like they have a definite click when depressed, the small LED lights located on the outlet do not illuminate [no power]. I’m stumped, I’ve tripped all the circuit breakers I can find, and nothing seems to return power. The 120V circuit breakers are labeled as follows left to right; Water Heater, Block Heater, Bedroom, Front A/C, Main, Rear A/C, Inverter, Washer/Dryer, Refrigerator. The only circuit breaker that I can clearly see what is being protected is the bedroom. I have 3 wall outlets in bedroom and all are working fine. Both roof A/C units work, water heater works, microwave convection oven works, refrigerator all work on 120VAC. I’ve searched for a possible circuit breaker but cannot find anything that remotely resembles 120V circuit breaker. In summary I now have 4 Wall outlets inside coach and another wall outlet in cargo bay which have no power. In addition both Front and Rear TVs also have no power. Can anyone offer advice on something I might not have already tried? I’ll post a picture of my main 120VAC breaker panel and 12VDC fuse panel. Thanks in advance. Eddie

For the most part all of my plastic window latches / locks have broken due to age. Drilling out the pop rivet is a pain, as there is the possibility of cracking a window pane. What I’ve come up with is an add-on window locking device. I cannot take credit, as I saw something very similar on something unrelated. It’s nothing more than an 8 penny nail, bent on a vice with assistance from a small hammer. It works great, at least it does for my needs. Pictures attached. Eddie

File uploading feature reestablished... Added additional pics showing solenoid air valve removed from firewall. Adjustment air flow screws now visible, air flow adjustments finely tuned, lastly reinstalled air valve onto firewall. Amazingly the air valve is mounted in such a position on firewall the air adjusting screws are not at all apparent. I also discovered my solenoid air valve is manufactured by Humprey. These Humprey Pneumatic D1052 valves complete with solenoid are readily available at Northwest RV Supply, cost is about $30.

With the temporary shutdown of FMCA forums I was delayed in reporting I was able to finally solve the violent opening of my entry stairwell cover. After further inspection, it turned out my 3 port solenoid air valve did indeed have the two air flow adjusting screws. Now stairwell cover opens and closes gently. I had to remove the air valve from firewall to discover and access the adjustment screws. After properly adjusting the air flow I reattached valve to firewall. I was going to attach a picture of air valve showing previously hidden air adjustment port , but it appears the feature of posting news pics has been disabled. Thanks to all who offered suggestions.

Hmm, RayIN after reading your post, I took another peak at my Cayman firewall. Not sure if what I have [just below the solenoid to air control valve, appears to be some sort of regulator, no pressure gauge indicator] is similar to what you’re describing. Attaching a few additional pics.

Hi all... I’m reaching out for much needed advice on how to solve my ongoing problem with opening my stairwell cover in my 2003 Monaco Cayman. Every time I activate my stairwell cover, it opens with such tremendous force the sound shockwave startles all onboard.The first problem I encountered was trying to locate the air control valve, as it is not located in the roadside compartment under drivers seat as stated in Monaco Cayman owners manual. Ugh! After searching for a bit, I believe I located that rascal on the firewall just above the generator. Unfortunately I do not believe my air control valve has the adjusting screws to regulate the air pressure through the air control valve [I uploaded pics of mine without adjusting screws, and another I found online Airman Inc with adjusting screws, another image from my owners manual showing adjusting screws, and lastly, an overall image of firewall with air control valve located mid picture slightly to right]. First off are these control air valves with adjusting screws readily available for purchase? I’m having one heck of a time, simply trying to locate and obtain a proper control air valve with needed adjusting screws. I will say that when stairwell cover retracts to its closed position, it does so slowly and quietly [no issues when closing]. I’d like it to open as slowly as it does when it retracts. Any advise is warmly welcomed. Eddie

Great idea, it’s an 03’. Thank you.😊

I’ve been wondering if it’s possible to install fully automatic / adjustable gas and brake pedals [like those in Camelots] on a Monaco Cayman Diesel Pusher? If that’s not a viable option, are there any kits available to extend the brake and gas pedals [non adjustable]? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Eddie

Yes, I re-water tested after applying the silicone, and as far as I can determine the leak has been rectified. One thing I know for certain is water no longer migrates down behind lower facia trim. After the next hard rain ☔ I’ll know. Fingers crossed . . . Eddie

Good evening all, Sorry I’ve been away for so long, unfortunately work tends to get in the way of the things I truly enjoy in life. The really good news for me is I discovered the mystery of my bedroom slide water leak. After much research it turned out to be another Monaco factory defect. Simply stated silicone was missing on the lower right hand corner of slide out facia trim piece. All this time I wrongly assumed the factory applied silicone under the trim, as not to mess up the paint job. This was not the case. After applying much water (with slides in) water continued to find its way onto my bedroom carpet. Long story short... water made its way down behind lower right hand corner of slideout facia trim. Then as the volume of water built up behind the trim it traveled on top of angle iron [about 1 1/2” wide], which allowed water to travel over and beyond rubber seals, then dripping [as if it were a waterfall] onto bedroom carpet. {You can see where I’ve applied silicone at bottom slideout trim piece} Pictures attached... Leak problem solved. Now, when I can afford I will replace interior bedroom flooring. Eddie

Thanks everyone for your many contributions. Now I have a better understanding on how slide seals should appear [flipped outward] and how to properly maintain the seals [lubricated] to provide a longer life. I just recently had my seams on the roof resealed, so I'm quite sure nothing is leaking from those [Believe it or not the end cap is sealed, I know the photo appears to indicate the seal to be bad]. As far as under my slide awning, what exactly should I be paying close attention to? Eddie

Good morning all... I've taken several pictures from late yesterday afternoon. I'll post them here. Included photos will show water damage to carpet [and obviously the wooden floor beneath]. I'm truly puzzled as to where the water is entering the inside of my coach... 🤬 Eddie