mike2wheels

The manual for my 2006 Holiday Rambler Endeavor says most of the chassis grease fittings get lithium-based grease. Except for the S-cam slack adjusters, where I'm supposed to use a clay-based grease. Why the difference? The lithium is high pressure and water proof; seems like it would work fine. If you're greasing your chassis do you use clay-based grease? I'm trying to avoid having 2 grease guns.

This is in a 2006 Holiday Rambler Endeavor. There is a 12-volt circuit to the bathroom lights. One circuit to two light switches; one switch for a single light fixture, the other switch to the two ceiling light fixtures. All of these fixtures are the 18-inch florescent tube type that have been converted to LED tubes. I added a motion sensing LED night light to this circuit by wiring the night light in parallel with the existing bathroom lights. The night light is connected before the circuit reaches the two light switches. All of the lights still work normally, including the night light, except for one annoying bit. When the night light comes on, one tube in each ceiling fixture glows faintly. Having this faint light in addition to the night light is not necessarily a bad thing. But I think it means I have missed something with the wiring. Should I remove the night light connection to the circuit negative wire and connect the night light to a common ground someplace?

I used these parts from backhoej on ebay. The gear replaced the broken part in both a power cord reel and a water hose reel. I've been using the repaired power cord reel for a couple of years with no problems. The water hose reel is sitting on the floor of my shed. Shoreline parts by backhoej

I've run through the pre-trip check with no discrepancies. I don't notice any air loss during the short times used in the check. How do you test for air loss in a valve? I know you can spray the fittings and look for bubbles, but if the air is not escaping to the atmosphere I don't see how the valve can be tested without removing it. There's a lot valves under there. I've used soapy water to spray fittings; do you dilute the bubble soap or use it straight?

Docj may have been closer to the problem than any of us. The problem was the valve had a sound of escaping air after it had been set, a continuous hiss. It was very faint; I used a leak detector to amplify it. And it showed no bubbles when sprayed with soapy solution. I replaced the valve with a Haldex KN20031. Although the new valve does not have a continuous hissing sound, there is still a leak somewhere. The system (both needles) loses something less than 10 psi an hour. I've been over the chassis from front to back with a leak detector and heard no leaks. The original valve was failed or failing, but the problem is bigger than a new valve.

This looks like the gear that drives Kwikee steps. Extend the steps and support them with a bungie or block because they'll swing free when you remove the linkage. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the plate that covers the motor and this gear. Slide the plate to one side so you can reinsert one of the bolts to hold the motor in place. Remove the nut that secures the linkage to the gear. Remove the hex bolt that holds the plate to the gear. As I recall this will release the gear. Reassemble in reverse order. I had a devil of a time getting the plate and motor lined up so the 3 bolts would go back in.

This is on a 2006 HR Endeavor with a Cummins ISL. I'm looking for a replacement for the push/pull parking/emergency brake valve, the valve on the other end of the yellow handle. When I pull my yellow handle out I can hear air flowing through the valve. I think after pulling the handle to apply the brakes the valve should be silent. My valve has a label for a Meritor Wabco 9366490120. However, the valves I've looked up with similar numbers don't look anything like mine. I've found a Haldex KN20021 and Haldex KN20031 that look similar to my Meritor valve, but I don't know how interchangeable these valves are. Anyone know if I can use anything with sufficient ports and a release pressure of about 35psi? I'm thinking of getting 2 output ports so I have a port for the pressure sensor.

I confronted them about their decisions and received a lecture about how great their techs are.

The new roof is a single sheet of fiberglass glued to a new 3/8" plywood underlayment. I don't know how the plywood is fastened but I was unable to pull it up. The new surface is about half an inch higher than the old surface. I like the idea of fiberglass, but I have never worked with it. I think I have a solution using short flange casing bead. It has a flange with screw holes and a half inch edge that will cover the exposed plywood. Six inch wide eternabond tape will cover this and lap onto the old roof. It's also very thin so I won't get a built up edge. First up is to get the end caps painted because exposure to this Arizona sun blistered the clear coat.

Thanks for your input. The original roof was a continuous sheet of fiberglass that ran over the edges to a drip rail on each side. I always wipe a surface with EternaClean before applying new caulk or tape. I was considering aluminum strap or edging because it's something that will hold screws. I'm finding that doing anything with this is a lot of hard work.

A couple of years ago a shop replaced the roof on our HR Endeavor. They used a single large sheet of fiberglass over new plywood underlayment. However, the sheet was not sufficient to cover the entire width of the roof, so they used trim, screws, and caulk to seal the edge of the fiberglass sheet. One problem is that the trim is about 3/16 inch higher than the roof, which prevents water from draining. Now they say the caulk should be replaced every year or two. This is over 80 linear feet of caulk and close to a day's labor plus materials. They quoted $500 just for a touch up. I think I can remove the trim and the caulk and replace it with Eternabond tape. Before I proceed I want some other opinions on my plan. In these photos you can see the trim around the edge of the roof, excluding the front and rear caps. The coach is 40' long, so there is close to 90 feet of trim.

Our first Holiday Rambler is a 2006 Endeavor 40PAQ. It's a quad slide model with the atrium living room. I measured our driveway at 42 feet and thought a 40-foot RV would fit. But the Endeavor is actually 41 feet and I didn't account for the mirrors. I'm just able to get the gate shut and have a couple of inches on each end. So far, we've replaced the roof and the rear A/C unit. I've also replaced the water pump, 4 slide toppers, front TV, dash radio, dining room set, toilet, and swapped the recliner for a desk. I've installed a DirecTV dish, built-in vacuum cleaner, rebuilt the power cord reel, removed the hose reel, removed the CB, covered the driver's and passenger's seats with sheep skin, and installed a slide out tray in storage. I've added a sound bar and subwoofer for TV sound. This is our second motorhome and 4th RV.

Our first RV was a '97 Rexhall Rolls Air with a Cummins engine and a Spartan chassis. You can see it was similar to your Rose Air. We were told that Rexhall made very few of the Rolls Air because Rolls Royce became upset with the use of the "Rolls" name. So Rexhall dropped the Rolls Air and developed the Rose Air. The fuel fill was in a conventional location, on the passenger side behind the front wheel. We towed a Gold Wing around the West with it.