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NanMWright

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About NanMWright

  • Birthday 07/25/1948

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Interests
    Wilderness, photography, music, reading, wandering...

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923 profile views
  1. Thanks again for your comments, I had my 2 12V batteries load tested and they are still good batteries - testing in at 14.4V. I understand from lenp's analysis that I may have limited their life, but for now they are okay. My plan is to expand to 400W monocrystalling solar panels with a 40A MPPT controller. Later on I'll upgrade my 2 12V batteries to 4 6V batteries and manage my daily load better. Thank you for these many posts. It has helped me manage my energy use more realistically...looking at the long game and not just what I need seasonally. As always, I'm glad I'm an FMCA member, and grateful for your help. Nan
  2. Thank you for your response on the solenoid and panel comments. This RV is a 1999 Bounder that I have been considering swapping for my 2007 Sunseeker. I want to trade up (?) to a Class A and I've decided that this Bounder has too many problems for me to tackle. I won't work on the Bounder any more, but I will keep looking for a small Class A for a future purchase. Thank you for your time responding to my questions. Nancy
  3. Got it. I have an Interstate near me. I'll start there, then figure out how to build out the solar, battery. load so I can function. Thanks, as always for FMCA help. I couldn't be on the road without you. Nan
  4. I'm full-time on the road and I only boondock. My generator (Onan) does not really charge the batteries unless I run if for hours. I don't have shore power. I usually run my Ford 450 engine to recharge the house batteries. I'll call the dealer where I got the batteries. Interstate has a 12 mo warranty and they are less than 1 year old. So, I will need to fully charge and test, per Lenp: I'm not sure that I have not voided the warranty by my use/abuse. Any suggestions on that? Nan
  5. Thanks, The 2-prong solenoid tests good. It has two small and two large posts. Where do I go next? Can I test the board?
  6. Hi Folks, My house batteries will not recharge when I am driving. How do I test the isolation solenoid? Nan
  7. Ugh. I can't say I fully understand the math behind battery use and maintenance, but your explanation certainly helps. I believe I have (mostly) destroyed my batteries which are less than a year old, Interstate 12V. I have too large a draw being supported by mis-matched and inadequate poly/mono solar panels which, when used together, are incompatible with the MPPT controller. The solution will require some education, several replacements, and better management of my load...an expensive bit of ignorance on my part. Thank you all for your input. Nancy
  8. Thanks for your replies. I'm re-doing my needs and running some calculators to better understand the math. The first fix seems to be running in series with monos. Then determining if I need additional panels and a larger controller. I appreciate your input. Nancy
  9. Hi Folks, I have two 100W Renogy solar panels on the roof of my Class C Sunseeker, wired in parallel and connected to a 20A Rover Controller. One of the panels is monocrystalline and the other is polycrystalline. (This was not intentional.) I'm having a lot of trouble keeping my two 12V batteries charged with the solar and I wonder if the problem is because I'm mixing different types of panels. If I need to change one of the panels out, do I stick with the poly or the mono? On a very good winter day, the panel monitor shows 18V / 9A from the panels, but my batteries rarely stay charged, frequently falling to 11.5 V. Thanks for your suggestions. Nancy Wright
  10. Hi Folks, "Your describe the propane burner as working "OK" regardless of using propane from your on-board tank or external tank. My suspicion is the chimney above the burner is restricted with cobwebs/dirt or a bird's nest or something else meaning inadequate hot gas flow along the boiler/perk tube. Typically the chimney "exhausts" through a rectangular opening through the top of an RV's roof. The chimney has a rectangular cover to keep rain, branches, leaves, etc. out of the chimney. To check the chimney I'd suggest removing the top cover and peer down into the chimney with a suitable flashlight to look for an obstruction. If there is an obstruction, a small width broom could be used to push the "stuff" out the bottom of the chimney. Also check the baffles in the bottom of the chimney above the burner to assure they are not partially plugged." FAGNAML This has been a very helpful thread. I finally made it to a town with RV repair and this contribution from Mike was exactly the problem. I originally thought I might have low gas pressure, but it only took a few minutes with a high pressure air hose to send a black cloud of debris up through the vent on the top of the rig. Within an hour, my fridge temp moved from 60 degrees to 35 degrees. The gas pressure still seems low to me, but the fridge has stayed in the low 30's for the past 5 days, so I'm considering it 'fixed'. Thanks for all your contributions. I certainly learned a lot about troubleshooting all the possible Dometic fridge problems. Nan
  11. I'm cooling the burner unit and taking it apart again. I'll check back in after I've run all the tests and cleaned everything.......thanks.
  12. I shut the valve to the house tank, then connect the external tank and slowly turn on the gas from the external. The fridge burner lights as soon as I turn on the gas setting on the fridge and it burns roughly the same whether I'm on the house tank or the cylinder. I thought at first it ran better on the house tank, but after a number of tests, I really don't see a difference. It will need to be tested with more precision. I have another tank I can try. And I'm recleaning and realigning the gas burner. I'll look for a propane store (not gas station) that can test my external tank for pressure. I found someone to replace the regulators if that's an appropriate step. N
  13. Excellent. Thanks for forwarding that to me. How do I determine that replacing the regulators is the next step? Process of elimination? Everything else seems to work fine, so the regulators are the next logical point of breakdown? I've been studying the 2652 Diagnostic Service Manual and there are a couple other things I probably need to do, like clean the flue, replace the door seal, re-check all the gas lines for restrictions.... The regulators are inexpensive enough that may just be an easy step to take. Thanks again.....
  14. Brett - I'm going to re-examine the burner...make sure nothing is blocking the fuel or flame. I think I did a good job of cleaning it, but it's easy enough to check and re-do if necessary. I'm more than 100 miles from a small town and 200 m from a large one with RV repair. But I can get on the phone to see where I'll get a repair. I've removed the gray cover over the regulator....there seem to be two 'regulator-type' insertions along the horizontal from the gas valves (internal and external) to the coach appliances. Does that mean I have a 2-stage regulator? I'll go back through the manual and see what I'm missing here. A little history: I was running all appliances on house propane and it ran out...leaving air in the line. When I hooked up my auxiliary tank and fed new gas through the line, the stove came on ok and the fridge burner lit but never cooled the fridge again. That's when I took the fridge burner apart and cleaned it. I don't know if my running out of gas was coincident or causal with the fridge breakdown. Thanks...nan
  15. Brett: The first thing I originally tried was to open the burner area, remove the tube and completely clean the tube and igniter with an alcohol swab...then re-insert it and confirm that it burned blue and consistent. Vertical slits were in ok condition. Small amount of rust, mainly on the frame of the tube. I never thought about the way I open/close the house or external cylinder. The flow to my cooking stove (from the external) is strong so I assumed the flow to the fridge would also be strong and consistent. My perception that the fridge burner worked better on the house tank could be totally subjective. Using the house tank did not improve the fridge cooling. I'll try the slow-on recommendation...Nan Richard: I'm using some of your suggestions to continue troubleshooting. The external tank works fine for my stove and furnace, so I don't think there is any problem with the tank. I'll work through your other ideas. Thanks for taking time to help me think through this. Nan
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