eric@babin.com
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Posts posted by eric@babin.com
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I've done the math..... NOT counting depreciation...... it cost me about 40 cents per mile to operate my 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U (diesel pusher). This includes fuel, DEF, insurance and scheduled maintenance. Since it's under warranty I haven't included any repairs.
Used in calculations: 8.9 MPG, Diesel cost 2.85 gallon, DEF is about 500 MPG and cost 3.00 gallon. Engine oil change every 15,000 miles cost $400, generator oil change $40 every 200 hours. (then I add a couple cents for tire use, coolant, etc that will be future cost.)
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We are unhappy with the mattress our coach came with.
We have 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U.
It has a "tilt-a-bed" base. It's a King size mattress - 72" x 80"
I was wondering if a normal replacement mattress would work or if the it must be a special mattress compatible with the "tilt-a-bed" base?
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FINAL ANSWER: We arrived at the dealer to drop it off with just over 16,000 miles. "Technically" the warranty had expired since we were over 15,000 miles and the delivery miles count against the mileage warranty.
They could have easily said, "too bad, so sad buckaroo"...... but they did not. Every item was taken care of under warranty.
Thank you Brian D. at REV Group for working with me on this. Thank you Fleetwood for considering "customer service" more important than making a couple extra bucks.
Just an FYI - there were several issues I had it in the shop for... guessing, I'd say it would have been $2,000 - $3,000 if I had to pay out of pocket.
I wanted to share a "good news" story with you.
The bad news..... Next time I'll be on my own... time to shop for an extended warranty I suppose?
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OK.... I have the final answer from Fleetwood!
Miles start at 0 regardless of how far they drove it from the factory to the dealership to deliver it.
Time starts on the date of sale.
(^^^^^ by the way...... if I had simply read the manual I am told it's in there somewhere..... )
My 6 month old RV with 16,000 miles, (1,000 of which from delivery), is technically out of warranty.
With that said..... I do have great news. The fantastic folks at Fleetwood and REV Group are going to cover the items I've already noted and made an appointment to get repaired!!!!! They even asked if anything else is needed to be looked at while I'll be there.... why, yes, now that you mention it... my water pump just went out..... their reply "we'll cover it".
Assuming they are true to their word.... I'm really happy with the customer service I'm receiving.
I'll update you guys once we pick it up from REV Group in a couple of weeks!
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Here is what I was told by Fleetwood Customer Service.... it's 15,000 miles regardless of how many miles Fleetwood put on it for delivery to the dealership. I feel sorry for those that buy it in San Diego..... that's a lot of warranty you don't get.
I'm requesting confirmation of what customer service told me via "contact" on the website.
Here is my question.... if the warranty on miles started at the end of the assembly line, then I guess the "1 year" started then also.... so, you've got 1 year from the day your coach was built.... right? So if the RV is on the lot for 12 months... too bad... no warranty.
I know for a fact cars don't work that way.... the warranty is 36,000 miles + the number of miles that were on it when you drove it off the lot. (I know this because I had a Chevy Avalanche that fell into that very small gap and they covered it)
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OK.... semi-update....... I've got a grease gun and lithium grease.
Gave the offending (leaking) jack a triple shot......
here is the fun part.... the grease fitting came off and got stuck in the grease gun..... what the heck? Took the fitting out of the grease gun and tapped it back into the jack.... I don't know whey that doesn't thread in.... but, oh well.....
I'll give y'all and update in a few days to see if it's still leaking......
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Checked the fuse. 10amp. It is fine. note: when fuse is pulled (or out) the indicator lamp on switch will not illuminate.)
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It is below freezing here during the night..... we have been running the propane basement heater since we are living in the coach..... the basement area seemingly has been kept pretty toasty.
We are on city water, and have been, so of course that is allowing us to have water with no issues. I just know we'll be boondocking next week so I'd like to figure the pump out.
I'll look for the fuse now.
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I know what you guys are thinking.... "dang, this guy has a new problem everyday".
Yes, I think I do.
Today:
Water pump inoperative. Indicator lamp shows it is on, but when needed, it doesn't run. Nothing.... (I assume it's not running since I can't hear it... and in the past, I could).
Not sure if the indicator lamp means it has power, thus no problem with fuse?????
Speaking of fuse, anyone have an idea of where that might be, before I call Fleetwood?
Also.... where is the pump? Probably near the water intake?
My coach info: 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrrow 36U
As always... thank you in advance for the advice!
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On 12/22/2017 at 5:21 PM, Moonwink said:Eric,
If you didn't let that park know there was a problem with their pedestal before you left please be sure to give them a call and let them know of the problem you had. It just might save the next occupant a small fortune when they they to use it.
yep... we let them know.
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On 12/31/2017 at 10:32 AM, FIVE said:Are you going to drop the coach and leave it, or stay while they do the work? They should tell you how things work there for each situation.
Drop and leave.... although we are "full time" we normally schedule service in Alvarado since the in-laws live nearby and we can stay with them while the work is done.
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All great info. My only concern about removing the jack myself is capping off the lines then upon re-install getting air in the lines.
I did notice the grease fitting.... I think I'll get a grease gun and white lithium grease to give that a shot.... also to maintain the other jacks.
I will be contacting Fleetwood about the warranty on January 2nd (once they are open).
Worse case.... if they have to replace the jack I'm going to ask to keep the old one.... then maybe get a quote to have it repaired..... if affordable repair it and I'll have an extra ready for the next time one goes bad.... because we know it will!
I'll update y'all once I get more info so if anyone searches the issue here they'll know what the outcome was.
Thank you.... and additional input is welcome.
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Right now I'm in Gulf Shores AL but have an appointment to have the work done at REV Group Alvarado TX on January 18th. I'd assume all 1,060 miles were delivery miles to the dealer (MHSRV in Alvarado TX). On google maps it shows about that many miles from the factory to the dealership.
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I was wondering about the exact expiration of warranty.
I purchased my 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U on May 28, 2017. It had 1,060 miles when I purchased it new from MHSRV.
Question: On a car warranty it starts the day you drive off the lot, so, if the new car has 200 miles on it, the 36,000 mile warranty is good to 36,200 miles. Are RVs the same? So my 15,000 mile warranty would expire at 16,060 since I drove it off the showroom floor with 1,060?
Issue #2- Even it the warranty is good to 16,060, it will expire by the time I get to the service facility... by a couple hundred miles. I've got several problems to be fixed, and they happened while under warranty, but as I said, by the time the coach makes it to the service facility, I'll be slightly over mileage. Is there a way to have it covered under warranty?
One of my issues is a repeat issue from warranty work in October..... a few thousand miles ago..... does that make any difference?
I've tried to call Fleetwood customer service, but they are closed until Tuesday. Just trying to get a head start on some information using the smart people on this forum.
Thank you in advance-
Eric
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I've got a leak on one of my leveler jacks.
Symptoms were "jacks down" alarm. Also one jack was losing pressure / raising a little putting me unlevel once leveled.
I figured out the alarm was due to the low fluid level, and the low fluid level is due to the leak between the shaft and housing (shiny thing and what it goes up into).
I have an appointment to bring it in for service in a few weeks to REV Group in Alvarado TX. They are saying they intend to replace the part.... no quote, but I've seen the part for sale online for about $900. So, I'm probably looking at 1200 bucks by the time they upcharge and install.
Any advice from you folks on alternatives?
BTW- Warranty will expire by the time I get to Alvarado... by a couple hundred miles. My coach (2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U) was purchased NEW May 28, 2017 with 1,060 miles. I ASSUME the 15,000 mile warranty started when I drove off the lot so it would be good until 16,060?????? I'll hit about 16,300 or so by the time I make it to Alvarado.... can't bring it into service where I am at because we live in it.... we have a place to stay outside of RV in TX. Any advice on the warranty issue would also be appreciated.
Picture of jack attached.
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UPDATE: We're at a different park....... no issues here.... so, it's safe to assume it was the 50amp pedestal at the other park.
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1 hour ago, manholt said:Just for information. If you don't have Petroleum Jelly handy, Vicks work as well and smells nice!
well... part ordered (actually entire pump assembly).... $260 including shipping and tax to thousand trails Orlando.... will be here in 5 days.
I'll install myself.... so, that's it... $260.... not bad..... would have been even better if my warranty had not expired 300 miles ago.... time to look into an extended warranty I guess.
side note: The bellow seems to be more rigid type of plastic than you'd think for a flexible item.... I just wish I knew what made it crack to prevent it on the new one down the road. We do live in the RV so maybe 7 months of flushing does that?
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Woke up this morning and decided to hit the switch.... pump began to run!!! great news right? I hooked it up to find it leaking from the top of the assembly pretty bad.... so, I took the pump apart.... the "bellows" is cracked. $100 part. I think I'll just an entire new pump assembly for $250 and keep the rest of my old one for parts for the next time it breaks.
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Backstory: I've got a vacuflush system on my 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U. The pump began to run continuously. Not too uncommon, and it's always been a small piece or tissue or something caught in the gasket seal right at the location that opens when you hit the foot pedal (not sure what that is called). This time that seal was fine ( I could tell because it wasn't sucking water through).
After some research I learned it was probably something in the duck bill valve on the pump. (symptom included clogged toilets and continuous running vacuflush pump) Dug into the system and YES>>>>> that was it.... cleared and cleaned the blockage. Pump and system worked fine for about a day then begins to stay on all the time. Symptoms were slightly different as the pump would stay on but drain slowly. Would not drain if I turned pump off. I figured it could not be the same issue, blockage, because no solids had been put into the system since I cleaned it the day prior.
Just prior to breaking the system apart again to see if I could find the problem I ran the pump to drain all the water out for less of a mess when I disconnected everything below.
Well, bad news.... the pump stopped.... but not because it had achieved the desired pressure.... the toilets would not drain, and the pump would not run.
I pulled the system apart and sure enough, no clog. No obvious reason it would not keep pressure. I thought it might be a duck bill valve damaged slightly and not obvious to the eyes.... I cleaned everything up, cycled the pump by hand to simply check to see if it was frozen up, or binded somehow.... It cycled manually just fine.... but would not cycle when turned on. You could hear it make a small noise when the switch was turned on, but would not cycle.
Since the system really won't drain without the pump I bypassed the entire system and am now on gravity drain, which doesn't work very well, and obviously we can put solids in there.
The pump I have is: Dometic Vacuflush (pictured below).
I guess at this point I'm looking for any ideas I may have missed that are obvious?
or.... if anyone knows a place that can work on this pump in the Clermont FL (S.E. Orlando) area I can bring the pump in. It's not hooked up so it would be easy to do.
OR..... IS THERE A WAY TO PERMENANTLY BYPASS THIS CRAPPY SYSTEM???? My friend has a 3" pipe that goes directly into the black tank from his toilet. I would love that!!!!! The hoses on the vacuflush are as small as 1" near the pump..... a recipe for clogs if I've every seen one. I can't keep it bypassed like I have it now because of the small hose, and how it has to go down, then back up..... the pump is what pushes the contents back up a foot or so to get into the top of the tank.
Right now we are at Winter Quarters Manatee Encore park near Tampa but moving up near Orlando Thursday Dec 21.
Dometic Vacuflush 12VDC LPVG-W-PUMP Assembly
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Thank you guys. This is the most helpful forum around. Glad to be a member!
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Here is an update.
I have a 50 amp coach.
I've put a 30amp adapter on and plugged into the 30 amp plug on the same pedestal.
Since I've plugged into the 30 amp we have not had an issue. We're running on 30 amp which isn't a big deal since we won't need 2 a/c units.
So, I "assume" it's the 50 amp circuit on the pedestal that is the issue.
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39 minutes ago, DickandLois said:Thanks for the info.
This is a link to a PDF file that should cover the unit .
http://trci.net/media/167833/40350 troubleshooting guide 505-00114a.pdf
When it passes inspection look for other possibilities. With a good OEM surge protector install, the installation of an aftermarket; very well could be over kill.
From working in the production world, there is the possibility of missing little things when there is a shift change, end of the day. Those items missed then go out the door and the dealer inspections only test the operation of the systems - if at all !!!!.
When I was a line technician or engineer. My standard - if the manufacture did not have one, was to supply every one of the assemblers with a clipboard with a build sheet - the installing was then the responsibility of the person doing the job and signing off, that the job was completed. That way I knew - how, when and what items where finished. Sometimes I needed to walk someone to HR for a little pep-talk !!
The fact that you coach is so new, I would have the dealer go through all the electrical connections to make sure they are tightened to the proper torque. The reasoning is - that as you drive down the road things will loosen up and one has intermittent connections that cause different levels of damage - depending on where the connections are located.
Good to get it done before the warranty expires and if needed setup a factory service visit.
Rich.
Yes.... we have an appointment at RevGroup in Alverado TX (The Fleetwood Factory Repair next door to MHSRV where we purchased it).
The appointment is for mid-January when we are back in that area. I always make an appointment with our service advisor Brian Dunn months in advance even if nothing is wrong at the time. It is so difficult to get an appointment with them I just make one for the next time we are passing through and then send the list of items that mess up during our travels. We all know "it's always something" so I just make the appointment knowing there will be issues 60 days down the road.
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It's a 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U
The ATS is : Surge Guard Model 40350 RVC
I normally have most of the load off prior to going back and forth.... although I think in the beginning I probably cut it off and on with a load (AC etc) (we've had the coach about 6 months, purchased new).
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CWSWINE - If I understand you correctly... I shouldn't have the portable surge protector plugged in? I should only use the coach's built in protector?
SLIDE OUT - MAGNET ?
in Type A motorhomes
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I've got a 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U.
Under our tilt-a-bed there is a magnet next to a small thin black plastic device that has 2 wires running in (my guess is one is running "in" and one is running "out".... both wires are black)
If this magnet gets bumped (very rare, but it happens) then the slide out will not operate until I move the magnet around to find the sweet spot once again. Right now it's working fine.... but, I am curious.......
What the heck is that magnet for?
Is it possible to bypass that magnet? Maybe cut the two wires and connect them together? I assume the magnet closes some sort of circuit for those two wires..... so if I were to permanently close that circuit I'd never have a magnet issue again?
It must be some sort of safety feature.... but, I don't like it....
I'd include a picture but it's under the tilt-a-bed and a pain to get to.