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eric@babin.com

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Posts posted by eric@babin.com

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Just got back from our event in New Orleans "Pardi-Gras".  We've got about 11 days before we have to be in Marble Falls for "Lone Star Luau".  The major stuff is almost done..... only the metal roof needs to be put on.... then we'll star landscaping and making it 'pretty' after we get back from Lone Star Luau.  

    Here are the latest pics:

     

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  3. Posted · Report reply

    8 minutes ago, manholt said:

    I agree with Joe on poss cause!  Neighter Herman or Wayne is wrong.  We, like you have a tough time getting to overflow.  Linda used a 5' length of clear surgical hose, cut in half and each half connected to a rubber bulb.  one end goes in antifreeze, other in overflow, then you squeeze bulb until it goes from on to other, for reverse (your case) start at reservoir, hold bottom shut until you have flow and place bottom in container!  We cant get a Turkey baster in there...her way beats sucking! :lol:

    Is it possible over fill would cause 1 zone to not flow? 

  4. Posted · Report reply

    41 minutes ago, jleamont said:

    Do you know what they actually touched as part of the service? Just a nozzle replacement and electrode adjustment wouldn't cause this. It was either overfilled or there is a valve shut off and as it gets hotter its backing up into the supply/overflow tank.

     I don't know for sure they did anything.... but I do know it's not a valve you manually close because it was working shortly after the service.  

    I did what was suggested above.... and..... one hose warm, other hose clearly NOT warm.  I tapped, then whapped, and finally WACKED what I believe was the check valve attached to the cool hose.... no luck.  Still not working....  

     

    Looking at the picture below.... the metal thing just left of the center hose with a hex bolt looking thing on top is the check valve?  Is the plastic square thingy under and to the right of the center hose..... is that a little 12v pump?  I tapped on that too.... no luck.... still doesn't work. 

     

     

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  5. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, hermanmullins said:

    Eric, 

    This may sound strange but if you can take the cover off you will find three solenoids. With the unit on and all three zone on feel the lines on each solenoid. They should all be hot. The one that is not hot is the one that is stuck.  With a hammer bang on the cold valve. Then check to see if it gets hot. Lack of use will sometimes cause them to get stuck. 

    You need to exercise the Aqua Hot at least every 30 to 45 days.

    Let me know if this helps. I told it sounds strange but it works.

    Herman 

    Yep... I'll give that a shot... I did take a quick look at it last month and the problem was when I take the cover off it disconnects the power via a sensor... I guess I could tape it down so it thinks the cover is on.... also, the **** thing is in there sideways.... tough to squeeze in.  But, I'll give it a shot.

    Also.... Since we had it serviced and working in October we did run it every couple of weeks. 

    1 hour ago, wayne77590 said:

    Eric,

    Use a turkey baster (don't tell wife) and if the fluid is hot remove enough to get to the hot fill mark. Then as Herman stated check the solenoids.

    My conversation with Rudy Leggett of Houston, Aqua Hot expert, AND Aqua Hot customer services, the system needs to be run every 30 days (or as Herman stated up to 45 days) and at the same time turn the thermostat in the coach up to exercise the heat exchangers. This will ensure a long life. (Supposed to anyhow)

    By running every day, turn the burner on and let it cycle at least once. On start up you'll hear a whine and then a poof when it ignites. Check the exhaust and feel for a steady flow and no diesel smell. A diesel smell indicates a partially clogged, or starting to clog, nozzle. The clogging happens when the system is not run regularly. The residual diesel around the nozzle will gel causing the clogging condition, According to Rudy, if they are exercised like they are supposed to be exercised they should go 2 and maybe 3 years without needing service. I'm still going to work on a shorter time frame for servicing.

     

    Good info.... I'm just not sure why the level is so high.... since it was recently serviced... (October)… maybe when they did the service they filled to "hot" line while cold?

    No diesel smell so that is good. 

    I'll take a look inside the panel next week.  

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Coach: 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD - All electric

    Aqua Hot 450D

    I had my Aqua Hot serviced in October, had never used it prior to that. (I bought coach used in May).

    All zones worked when we first used it in November, shortly after the service.

    In December I noticed Zone 1 was not heating, blowing only cold air. (On mine, Zone 1 is the rear which is in main bathroom, and 1/2 bathroom)

    Zone 2, which is mid-coach, worked fine (and still does)

    I finally took a look after I noticed it appeared to leak under the coach under the AquaHot location from time to time.

    Yes, I see now when 'hot' it is overfull. (see pictures).

    Here is my thought, but I know nothing about Aqua Hot.... I think MAYBE the Zone 1 piping liquid is all in the tank, and not in the pipes..... maybe a stuck check valve prevents the liquid from getting back into the piping to circulate?????

     

    You can see in the below pictures the aqua hot reservoir is full to the top, and leaking out the overflow tube. 

     

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  7. Posted · Report reply

    So my Lippert auto levelers on 2014 Winnebago / Itasca Ellipse 42QD were making a popping noise once it's complete with it's cycle.... and afterwards during regular sitting / level. 

    After some research I found out it is something common in levelers and it's called "stiction". 

    I was already working with Lippert on another issue I had so I asked about this "stiction" thing....

    David at LCI Customer Service was very helpful. ( customerservice@lci1.com).

    Here is the fix:

    CCD_0002091.pdf

    David recommended the "Fork Oil" of the three listed on the PDF. (Fig. 2)

    I did as directed... so far, so good.

    Just in case the PDF doesn't load... here are pictures of what is included with the PDF. 

    image.thumb.png.8be95beafc76adf0214fd3cc7aa63e84.png

    image.thumb.png.04c7de846a28d03d18c0c380b8786ab6.png

     

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Coach: 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42qd

     

    So, one night our dog decides to look out the window next to the passenger seat while we are at an event.

    Guess what is on the ledge right under that window?  The power lock button for the door.  

    Yep....

    We normally lock our door with the top lock key.... the bottom lock is the one that the power lock controls... so, we have no key to that lock outside the coach.... We are LOCKED OUT!

    We call a locksmith and he comes out.... knows nothing about RVs... and we are tired and need in our RV. (it's 2am)……  So, he destroys the bottom lock (see picture below)….. and we get the pleasure of paying him $120 as a "thank you" for doing that.  But, we do get into the coach.  

    I make a call to Winnebago  and it just so happens they don't sell just the part the guy destroyed... I have to purchase the entire door handle assembly.... I think it was $260 give or take a few bucks...

    It was a pretty easy install.... it took me a couple of hours but I think now that I've done one... I could do it again in about 30 minutes. 

    Be sure to remember the order in which you disassemble... this will be helpful as you put it back together.... 

    Point of contact at Winnebago:  Chris A. Andersen   caandersen@winnebagoind.com

    Image 0501:  original assembly... the one the locksmith destroyed

    image 0513:  backside of door handle assembly

    image 0516:  inside of door after inside door handle removed

    image 0520: new door handle assembly with part number

    image 0521 edge of  door at the height of door handle you'll find a round plastic cap... you must remove this plastic cap and unscrew the 7/16 bolt to remove the inside door handle assembly

    image 0523:  part numbers for what I had ordered

    image 0525: IT'S FIXED!

    Last image:  The guilty dog!

     

    Lessons learned:

    1- Never forget, if you have FMCA roadside assistance it has lock out assistance.... I bet if I had remembered that I would have gotten someone that knows about RVS.

    2- Maybe this should be #1..... Always keep extra keys for every lock hidden somewhere.

    3- Fixing stuff yourself is very satisfying... but, I think I'd be more satisfied if this mistake didn't cost me about $400 in locksmith and parts!

     

    Guess who has extra keys for the coach in his Jeep, hidden outside coach, and with friends????? THIS GUY!

     

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  9. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, manholt said:

    Eric, if your there Wed.  I'll be at TCC, so I'll swing by and look, see.  

    Since your not building a house.  I see nothing wrong with metal roof of any kind.  Insurance is a non issue & your there part time.  

    Looks great, both of them! :D

    We will be here Wednesday.... just remember... we're LIVE on air starting at noon for about an hour, sometimes a little more. If anyone wants to tune in you can stream it on www.RadioTropRock.com or our free smart phone applications. If you are tech savvy then I'll tell you we're also available on Streema, Tune In, and Radio.net

  14. Posted · Report reply

    16 hours ago, manholt said:

    DBenoit.

    I was there in the Jeep earlier today.  Met nice people.  Not as much room as the pictures show and it's not an easy place to find...I would say no, but then that's up to Eric!

    As long as it's a pass through, and we are home, feel free to stop by...you'll have about 10 acres to plop down on! :lol: The other 3 acres are house, barns, storage and a 50' x 100' pole barn!  We have another property outside of Three Rivers, with full H/U's

    Sorry we didn't get a chance to visit longer.....  we stay pretty busy even though we are "retired".  

    22 hours ago, DBenoit said:

    Boondockers Welcome ?  😎

    The property is actually owned by the inlaws…. I'm not sure they understand the whole "RV community" thing.... If we owned it the answer would be yes... but as mentioned.... also it's only 3 acres and it's a circle drive... if you get off the drive, you will sink pretty quick... unfortunately I know from experience.  

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Replaced the hex plug today.... It appears to have fixed the leak.... 

    See the attached photos of the old and the new..... one thing of note.... the new ones have some sort of black coating on them making it difficult to get the allen wrench to fit easily.... 

    You can see the damaged o-ring on the old one. (btw- there is just one.... I got 2 new ones so i'd have a spare. )

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  19. Posted · Report reply

    39 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:

    Park on your new gravel and you can break it in with oil drips till you get the "O" ring. It's going to happen some time might as well be now then later.:rolleyes::rolleyes:

    Herman

    We're actually parked on a different part of the drive while they build the RV cover.... so, the drips will be here.... but, since it's caliche (gravel) is seems to soak in pretty good... probably no permanent "damage". 

     

    Kind of like when you get a new pick up.... just go back to the truck bed and put a nice big scratch in it with your key.... then you don't have to worry about scratching it later... the stress is gone.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Here is our Lippert reply:

    ****

    Hi Eric, there is a O-ring on the plug. We do not have replacements but do have the plug with O-ring part number 140998 @ $2.95 and can be ordered at this link   https://store.lci1.com/6408-hhp-04-o-ring-adapter-hex-plug

    Thank you,

    David Bice
    Lippert Components

    ****

    Here is my order:  (look at price of shipping a little hex plug) (I ordered two so I have a spare)

    ****

    1/4" Hydraulic Fitting - Hex Plug (6408-04)

    SKU: 140998 BU-039

    		2 $5.90
    Subtotal $5.90
    Shipping & Handling $18.67
    Tax $1.66
    Grand Total $26.23

    ****

    I'll post once it replace the part and let you know if it fixed it. 

     

     

  22. Posted · Report reply

    2014 Itasca (Winnebago) Ellipse (tour)

    Lippert components leveling / LCI

    See below I've got a leak. It only leaks during the time with the levelers are extending or retracting.

    It's obvious it's leaking right out of the brass fitting / and or the hex plug fitting.   

    My question is this:  Is there a gasket or o-ring or something that may have failed causing the leak?

    When it first began to leak I did find the plug was a little loose.  I tightened it up, but it still leaks.  

    I'm sending this same inquiry to Lippert... but you guys are so smart... I thought you may be able to help.

     

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  23. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, jleamont said:

    In Texas, do you need building permits for something like this?

    I have no idea..... I hired a contractor to handle everything.....

    My guess is we don't have permits.... I could be wrong... but I think if you have permits you post them on property just in case of an inspector stops by.  We have nothing posted. 

    We are pretty far out in the country.... unsure if we are with any "city limits". 

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Why do I have to provide all my coach information every time I call for road side assistance?

    Maybe there is a way, that I do not know yet.... but, why can't I provide all the details and required information about my coach when I sign up for road side assistance?

    Example:  I'm on the side of I-10 and need assistance.  I call up FMCA roadside assistance and give them my member number and they already know my coach S/N, engine S/N, transmission type, coach weight, etc, etc, etc, etc..... you get it.... 

    That sure would make life easier wouldn't it?

    If FMCA Roadside Assistance allows let, please let me know. 

     

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