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OBIWAN_CANOLI

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    mjclark1112@gmail.com
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    michael.clark839

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Napa, California
  • I travel
    With pets

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  1. Yes, flat Tow... meaning, all four wheels on the ground... I started with a Tow Dolly, and now wish to move to a more convenient means of towing my car... since I do not have the necessary equipment to tow a vehicle 4-down, my original post is motivated by this fact
  2. Having used a Tow Dolly to tow my 2017 Ford Edge FWD 3.5L, I'd become a bit displeased with the inconvenience, and had all but decided to obtain the equipment necessary to flat-tow my vehicle. So, I called Camping World - the only resource I knew of - and was shocked at the quote they provided to install the equipment on both vehicles - over $5,400!!! Can this be accurate? Am I missing something here? Previous inquiries suggested a cost closer to $2,500... but at 5K+, I think I would easily put up with the dolly... Sure would appreciate some input from more experienced RV'rs… Thanks!
  3. That's actually a luxury tax of about $800 (give or take) on MH's valued at 300K or more new
  4. I have an OEM mattress, Queen (80 X 60) that, I believe, is about 5 inches thick. The linen I bought through AB Lifestyles, though as a newbie, I wasn't exactly sure I was ordering the right stuff... what I ended up with was both a bottom and top sheet with elasticized corners, and though it was the correct size, it's too big to fit snugly. I thought a mattress topper might fill the gap, so to speak, but felt sure others have experienced this issue, so I'm writing to seek input as to how best to resolve this. Your thoughts? Thanks, Michael
  5. As electrical cars become increasingly common (I just put down a deposit on the new 2020 electric Mustang due out in the Fall, 2020), I'm wondering what, if any, progress has, is, or is on the drawing board to address the potential for RV's to charge electric vehicles via shore power, or while being towed... Does anyone know of a site, or other source, that speaks to this?
  6. It appears I need to replace my 4-6V House Batteries. While the RV panel display shows Chassis Battery @ 12.6V, House Battery display shows 13.4. The Solar Controller display, also shows 13.6, and when I press the Amp/Volt button, it shows 5.6A (the status bar at top of screen shows 2 of 4 cells black - suggesting 50%). Pressing the Amp/Volt button on the controller one more time gives me a figure of 42.1A, with all status cells black, at the end of which it states 100%. Pressing one last time returns me to the Voltage indicator. If I understand my battery bank resources correctly, good batteries at a full charge should show far more than 42.1A available. I surmise this because the label on the first of 4 batteries shows "115 mins @ 75 Amps 225 Ah @ 20Hr"... (English, please). This suggests to me that with good batteries, I should have a bank of about 900Ah, more than adequate for several days without shore power. I don't have the mind to wrap around this on my own, without input from someone much more knowledgeable than I, and patience as a teacher of battery wizardry... thanks for your help in turning the bulb over my head on... Michael
  7. About 2 months ago, I received a call from my agent that my Nationwide coverage was going to cost more at renewal. My 1st RV policy, and I have other coverage (multi-discounts). The increase would take me from $1,826 to nearly $2,500. Got busy and called GS, and received a quote for a bit over $1,550. Better coverage, more comprehensive. Decided to add personal liability coverage too, which was about $25 more than Nationwide, but tied together with the quote, all coverage was better, and at a savings of around $900!!!
  8. Wildebill is a comedian! LOL! Point taken...
  9. After my first year with a new RV, and membership in Passport America, I just received my renewal notice, offering an additional 6 months of membership for a mere $5 additional handling fee that wasn't part of my initial membership cost. I'm questioning the worth of renewing, given my experience, and am considering other options, beyond the Good Sam membership I intend to keep. I'm not at all pleased with the restrictions which the vast majority of PA sites inflict, i.e., limited number of nights as few as only 1 night, limited seasonal eligibility which by and large excludes the warmer months from using the discount, and the limits of days eligible, mostly Monday-Thursdays. Of course, the RV parks listed can enforce any restrictions they like, but since that comprises the majority of options within the PA network, I'm unconvinced that continuing my membership in PA is worth the cost, and effort. I would be interested in others' experience, and hope to learn of other options which may be more generous with RV parks and their terms....
  10. I spoke with a Newmar rep who's investigating this, and will be getting back to me soon... I hope!
  11. My 2017 Newmar Ventana LE has two switches for the water heater... one, with a red-lighted switch, is flipped "ON" when hooked to Shore Power, and the red lighted switch comes on... The other switch - lower right side of display, where the Step control & security light switches all are housed within one small black panel - has NO lite, nor does it indicate which flip of the switch is "ON" or "OFF"... I've tried both, but when dry camping, neither position seems to work, as I get no hot water heater running (you can hear it when hooked to shore power)... I don't know which position is on or off... It seems a silly question, I should have figured this out by now, but as I said, neither position seems to work... anyone have a thought here?
  12. It isn't necessary to attach your hose while you're camping... you won't be leaving the valve open (Bad JuJu), and there's little point in HAVING it attached when not in use. Why not simply leave it unattached, and pull it out for dumping at the end of your stay? By the way, I also have a Ventana LE, and the port on the floor of the bay unscrews (if you choose to use it) so you can insert your hose through it. Should be large enough to do so with the connector on the end, but know that the connector can be removed for such installation.
  13. Given the additional weight on the rear, I'm thinking my best option is a 4X4 with a long enough bed to accommodate the HD (as Manholt suggested) and a Rampage-type winch. I'd LIKE to go another route, but that appears to require a longer, tandem axle coach, and that's not, at this point, in the cards. Thank you all for your thoughts and contributions... been a big help!
  14. Would love to take the HD (800#) along with the car, figure it requires a lift for the HD, and wondering if my coach can handle the load. GCWR gives me about 5K to work with, and I'm thinking I might have to consider leaving one of them behind, or trading up to a longer tandem rig... My coach is a 2017 Newmar Ventana LE, 35' DP, the car is a Ford Edge front wheel drive... I'd be happy if I could add a lift to tow the HD, but looking for other perspectives, and experiences...
  15. That may be so for permanent structures. I'd look into installing something that's "temporary", i.e., that can be dismantled easily and moved. Usually such structures will not require a permit, or result in a property reassessment. I have a friend who installed a frame over which is covered by a canvas-like material which serves to put a "roof", and sidewall covers, completely housing his 33 foot RV. He informed me it's a temporary structure, can be easily disassembled, and did not require a permit, nor a reassessment. Perhaps your community has similar ordinances?
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