obiwan_canoli

After my first year with a new RV, and membership in Passport America, I just received my renewal notice, offering an additional 6 months of membership for a mere $5 additional handling fee that wasn't part of my initial membership cost. I'm questioning the worth of renewing, given my experience, and am considering other options, beyond the Good Sam membership I intend to keep. I'm not at all pleased with the restrictions which the vast majority of PA sites inflict, i.e., limited number of nights as few as only 1 night, limited seasonal eligibility which by and large excludes the warmer months from using the discount, and the limits of days eligible, mostly Monday-Thursdays. Of course, the RV parks listed can enforce any restrictions they like, but since that comprises the majority of options within the PA network, I'm unconvinced that continuing my membership in PA is worth the cost, and effort. I would be interested in others' experience, and hope to learn of other options which may be more generous with RV parks and their terms....

I spoke with a Newmar rep who's investigating this, and will be getting back to me soon... I hope!

My 2017 Newmar Ventana LE has two switches for the water heater... one, with a red-lighted switch, is flipped "ON" when hooked to Shore Power, and the red lighted switch comes on... The other switch - lower right side of display, where the Step control & security light switches all are housed within one small black panel - has NO lite, nor does it indicate which flip of the switch is "ON" or "OFF"... I've tried both, but when dry camping, neither position seems to work, as I get no hot water heater running (you can hear it when hooked to shore power)... I don't know which position is on or off... It seems a silly question, I should have figured this out by now, but as I said, neither position seems to work... anyone have a thought here?

It isn't necessary to attach your hose while you're camping... you won't be leaving the valve open (Bad JuJu), and there's little point in HAVING it attached when not in use. Why not simply leave it unattached, and pull it out for dumping at the end of your stay? By the way, I also have a Ventana LE, and the port on the floor of the bay unscrews (if you choose to use it) so you can insert your hose through it. Should be large enough to do so with the connector on the end, but know that the connector can be removed for such installation.

Given the additional weight on the rear, I'm thinking my best option is a 4X4 with a long enough bed to accommodate the HD (as Manholt suggested) and a Rampage-type winch. I'd LIKE to go another route, but that appears to require a longer, tandem axle coach, and that's not, at this point, in the cards. Thank you all for your thoughts and contributions... been a big help!

Would love to take the HD (800#) along with the car, figure it requires a lift for the HD, and wondering if my coach can handle the load. GCWR gives me about 5K to work with, and I'm thinking I might have to consider leaving one of them behind, or trading up to a longer tandem rig... My coach is a 2017 Newmar Ventana LE, 35' DP, the car is a Ford Edge front wheel drive... I'd be happy if I could add a lift to tow the HD, but looking for other perspectives, and experiences...

That may be so for permanent structures. I'd look into installing something that's "temporary", i.e., that can be dismantled easily and moved. Usually such structures will not require a permit, or result in a property reassessment. I have a friend who installed a frame over which is covered by a canvas-like material which serves to put a "roof", and sidewall covers, completely housing his 33 foot RV. He informed me it's a temporary structure, can be easily disassembled, and did not require a permit, nor a reassessment. Perhaps your community has similar ordinances?

Methinks that OTA may only produce a few entertaining channels... found most offer religious, shopping, and perhaps limited sports to view... RV park cable, or the addition of a satellite antenna with a service such as Dirct TV or Dish will provide far more options and variety... personally, I've run this circle, and after learning enough to be, well, still a novice, I took good advice, and installed a Winegard Trav'ler and subscribed to Dish...

Thank you, Wayne, very helpful. By the time I noticed your message, I'd accumulated a bunch more info., and feel I'm better versed, now, with what I have, what I need, and how it all fits together. Just today, got word my Winegard Trav'ler was installed, and with that, I'm sure it's clear, I did a little more research. Even got wiring diagrams from Newmar to assist the tech in completing the install, which, coupled with his experience, should have made the job much easier, as he noted when I got the call that the rig was ready to pick up. FYI, I opted for two Wally's, but your suggestion of an external hard drive sees like a good idea. I may not need it, though, as my service appears to provide for recording, given I have two HD-compatible Wally's, and the Hopper service at home. I'll check on this to be sure.

Thank you, very informative!

Here's an update - i checked the house battery bank, found this: 115 min @75 amps... 225 Ah @20 Hr on each label (?), 4-6V batteries, no apparent room here to add two more, and not sure where I'd put them, even if it were prudent to do so. Just installed 2-160W panels, and now have total of 480 watts, producing max of 26.1 amps, with a 30A controller... Comments?

Still figuring this site out... didn't see your message manholt... checking into it, thank you!

I have Zamp Solar (Expansion) panels, which are designed to plug into one another as they're added. What's MPPT? I have a 30A controller, and the total output of all 3 (160W) panels is 26.1 amps. In addition to a factory installed voltmeter (I admit this probably isn't as accurate as a purist would require), the controller for the solar also has a voltmeter and both seem to be in tune with he other. Been told an ammeter is worthwhile, to show power going out and coming in, but am not technically savvy as an electrician to install... Kaypsmith, I hear you... Can't tell you yet if there's room for two more 6-V batteries, as my parking needs at home make opening that bay door impossible to check batteries until I move the rig, however, that will happen in a few days, and will check then to determine amp hours available, and, if there's room to add more reserve... I hadn't considered unplugging electronics that aren't running, but it makes sense that things like TV and audio "at the ready" would draw power... Fridge is not a residential unit, runs on propane OR internal power... This brings up another question, though... Internal lights are all LED's, but wonder if a stand-alone, battery operated lamp would be prudent at appropriate times. ?

I'm surprised there've been no replies to my post, despite the high number of views, so assume I must be asking in the wrong forum, or I've somehow committed an unforgivable error... Thanks to a different forum, I have my answers...

My first RV - a 2017 Newmar Ventana LE 35' Been interesting getting to become familiar with everything about, on, and within it... the forums help a lot, so thanks for all the contributors!

Hello, everyone! Pretty new to the Class A lifestyle (2017 Newmar Ventana LE), I had the dealer install a 160 Watt Zamp Solar Deluxe kit, anticipating I may have a potential need and desire to increase capacity. It was important that the Zamp panels make it easy to add a panel or two with simply a plug-in feature, requiring minimal effort to do so at minimal cost (short of self-installation). While I don't have specific plans to boondock extensively, I also expect I will want to seek hideaways and places absent shore power, so that I may also enjoy the benefit of dry camping for 1-2 weeks at a time, and perhayps longer. After much research, and tapping the experience of the technicians who initially installed the first panel, I've chosen to add two additional 160 Watt panels (for a total of 480 Watts, producing 8.7 Amps each (total 26.1 Amps), and have a 30A Controller. i also have a fridge that can run electric or gas, a house battery bank of 4-6 Volt batteries, 2 - 15M Inverters, and plan to be judicious with my TV & microwave usage. Since the original dealer is 500 miles away, I've ordered the panels from Amazon, and I'm planning to have a local Zamp dealer install them, which saves me about $400, when compared to having the original dealer sell and install each panel. Based on the above information, would you conclude that my solution should, under most circumstances, work well for my anticipated needs? If not, what would you recommend? Thanks for your input and advice - it's much appreciated! Michael

Hello all... Recently picked up 1st Class A, a 2017 Newmar Ventana LE, and now getting around to researching Satellite & TV options, but there's literally everything I probably need to learn, and so, here I am, asking the experts. I also have a Winegard Pathway X2, with 2 cable ports. In the exterior power cord compartment is a cable hookup. On the opposite side, another, paired with an HDMI port. Inside, in a cabinet above the bedroom TV, is another cable connection port. There may also be a port above the cockpit, but I haven't looked for it. I've also watched TV using the rooftop antenna (free), and understand how to tap into that via tv settings, and channel search. I'm soon to obtain service at home from Dish, and as many already know, add service to my RV. My query relates to a few things I'm just not clear on... If cable is available at a typical RV park, do I have access to cable tv, via the existing cable wiring, and using the external port, or will I require a cable box -a Wally - to access service? If the proper source is chosen from the TV menu, is that all there is to it? Does the feed from the external cable port extend to both inside TV's? In order to watch the bedroom TV, will I need a separate "Wally" for access to the park's cable? I assume if I subscribe to Dish, they'll provide one for home, but not sure about a second, when I request service to the RV. Will I be able to watch two different channels with two TV's, running one cable to the outside port in the power cable compartment? Or will I be required to use both ports on the satellite antenna, running one cable through an as yet unidentified point of access, say, to the bedroom TV? Knowing as little as I do, are there more questions I should seek the answers to? Please forgive the nature of my questions, as I don't know enough about this area to pose questions that make better sense... no techie here, but competent enough to follow sensible advice, thanks! Thank you all for your guidance! Michael

Hello, everyone! Pretty new to the Class A lifestyle (2017 Newmar Ventana LE), I had the dealer install a 160 Watt Zamp Solar Deluxe kit, anticipating I may have a potential need and desire to increase capacity. It was important that the Zamp panels make it easy to add a panel or two with simply a plug-in feature, requiring minimal effort to do so at minimal cost (short of self-installation). While I don't have specific plans to boondock extensively, I also expect I will want to seek hideaways and places absent shore power, so that I may also enjoy the benefit of dry camping for 1-2 weeks at a time, and perhayps longer. After much research, and tapping the experience of the technicians who initially installed the first panel, I've chosen to add two additional 160 Watt panels (for a total of 480 Watts, producing 8.7 Amps each (total 26.1 Amps), and have a 30A Controller. i also have a fridge that can run electric or gas, a house battery bank of 4-6 Volt batteries, 2 - 15M Inverters, and plan to be judicious with my TV & microwave usage. Since the original dealer is 500 miles away, I've ordered the panels from Amazon, and I'm planning to have a local Zamp dealer install them, which saves me about $400, when compared to having the original dealer sell and install each panel. Based on the above information, would you conclude that my solution should, under most circumstances, work well for my anticipated needs? If not, what would you recommend? Thanks for your input and advice - it's much appreciated! Michael