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So I've browsed through some of these topics already, but I have a unique situation. Our water filter broke on the water pump, which means it was at full suction. It was the original on our 2002 Bounder 31W, so of course they don't make that model anymore. I bought a new water pump thinking this would fix everything, well now I've run into the issue that it won't draw water from the tank. I hooked it up independently and it did pull water from a bucket. How would I have a crack in my line just from changing pumps? Anyone else have this issue? I also let it run for a while, and it still didn't work. It will pressurize when hooked up to city water. Thanks!!!

Our 2017 Fleetwood Bounder came with Sansui TVs that are poor quality. We wanted to replace the one in the living room with a Sony but discovered that it didn't fit in the existing wood frame. Without some wood-working modification we didn't see an option for the switch. Has anyone else run into this? If so, did you figure out a way to switch to a better TV?

So ... anyone who knows me can tell you that I think the government lies and lies again and couldn't tell the truth if the Holy Ghost made them. Thats said, I decided to take apart my carburetor in the genny and not to my surprise, i probably will be purchasing a new one next season. Now, Yall Diesel owners dont have this issue to worry about however, feel free to chime in because I am sure youhave dealt with it at somepoint. Many know I have had genny problems sense about April and I managed to work through most of them because whoever serviced the genny seemed to do 1 thing right and that was put a decent Mobil 1 oil filter on it. The BIGGER issue with this fuel I traced back to a line that appears to be cracked above the sender, and in certain conditions allows air to come in thus causing the genny to starve for fuel. I thought the pick up line on the sender was short, as Joe and I talk about my issues and this seemed to be something that happens at times but - I am well under a ½ tanks and the genny is running. So, I took the hose from the chassis to the fuel pump (along my chassis is a metal hose and then another rubber hose into the sender) and the carburetor to a trusted friend who is a marine mechanic. Milton took a look at both the hose and the carb and determined that the damage from the "Ethanol" has taken toll on the lines AND gummed the jet in the carb. The plastic float is starting to become gummy and when he cut the hose open he could see where the brittleness came from ethanol. Prior to me taking my carb and hose to Milton he asked me to bring a few gallons of gas from my tank so he could examine it a bit closer. One of the things he found was a presence of water in my fuel tank ... how he figured that out I dont know but he said it was there. ANYONE who took high school chemistry of Chem 101 knows that anything Alcohol is a SOLVENT therefore it will do what it says it will do. I am sure All of us who have gas coaches in the mid Atlantic have ethanol in our tanks sitting over the winter so unless treated (if thats even possible) we have dissolved deposits in our tanks as well as water because of Phase Separation; especially if you traveled to states like Tennessee, Florida, Georgia, and Texas who all have ethanol free gas stations and or pumps labelled ethanol free. In my infinite wisdom I filled up with non ethanol and created a potential problem - but I saw 12 miles vs 8 to the gallon pulling a 3500lb car ---HUMMMMMM wonder why? I am not worried about the V10 per sae cause even in 1999 fuel-injected vehicles were designed with stainless steel lines and fittings, modern coatings on cast parts, and plastic parts and tanks that are ethanol-proof so the main engine has no issues --- and the fill hose only sees the gas for seconds until the next fuel fill - not really a problem at least for now ... Lets get back top the genny, my coach spent 2014 - 2016 winters in Walden NY, kinda upstate but not NY City. It sat from The Summer of 2014 until I bought it in October 2016 - and I wasnt aware of that until I did some odometer math and my issues started to make sense. The Ethanol absorbed some of the water but I honestly believe i had a lower separation and a highly corrosive mix of water and ethanol - and when the previous owner ran the genny over the 18 months it sat, he sucked oxidized sour gas into that fuel line and it SAT ... eating away at the rubber compound. My carb is shot to who ha because that corrosive mix has eaten the inside of it and soon that will completely fail. So, if you are having genny issues (Specifically fuel Related) , and they are reoccurring every few years, I suggest 2 things, and I am still experimenting to see if this is possible ... 1. If you live in states that allowed NON ethanol gas (Maryland Banned it) pay the extra .70 a gallon as it will save you in the long run 2. If you can, consider a way to put a separate tank in your coach specifically for the genny. I am thinking about taking the spare out and ditching it for a 30 gallon gas tank for the genny - not sure how i am going to do it. 3. Think about putting a Y valve between the gas line on the main tank and a separate tank for the genny, will give you the ability to run a fuel that has an phase separation fighter for when the genny will sit for a bit. It keeps "good" gas in the lines and in the carb. 4. When replacing genny fuel lines skip the local advance auto ... buy a hose that is Polytetrafluoroethylene (P.T.F.E) lined which is teflon lined hose. Its expensive but so is a motorhome! 5. Be proactive ... dont wait til there is a problem to fix it,. Use some type of stabilizer, i personally have 15 bottles of Lucas Ethanol Fuel Conditioner on hand. It goes in when a. I fill up headed to the campground where the coach will/may sit for a week or more b. When i fill up and its going in the driveway for a few weeks until our next adventure c. if I am doing a long haul (Over 500 miles) I will drop some in so it at the last fill up before I hit the camp ground, and the last fill before I get home. I know I can not be the ONLY person with these issues so chime in if you have suggestion and or problems.

Hi all! We have a Bounder 31W with Power Gear jacks. We recently removed a huge electric security system that was draining our battery and now have trouble with the jacks going down. The parking brake is set, but the jacks won't go down unless the brake foot pedal is pushed down. It also makes a whirring sound, like some kind of gear turning maybe? Then in order to keep the jacks down you have to turn off the car and remove the key. Otherwise if you accidentally take your foot off the brake pedal they automatically retract. Any suggestions would be helpful. I've replaced fuses, and replaced at least one relay switch. Thanks so much!

Hopefully I can explain my problem correctly, as it has me kind of perplexed! LOL! First, over the last several days I have had a couple occasions where I would go to start the engine on the coach, and there was no power (no lights, nothing). I could however, start the generator. With the generator running, I could then start the engine normally. Yesterday however, this stopped working. I tried to start the engine and it turned over once and that was it. After that I could not even start the generator. So, I checked my starting battery and noticed the indicator "eye" was red. I took it that meant it was a dead battery. I purchased and replaced the starting battery, and the coach started easily. Problem solved, right? So, I thought. I drove home (this was all happening on a trip of course!) and parked the coach in the shed, shut off the engine and plugged in to the 30amp shorepower. Everything came on as expected, but after 5 minutes or so all the power went off. I checked the breaker in my home, and it was not tripped. I could not get any power to come back on in the coach (not even battery power), and the generator would not start. Since I had the ignition problem previously, I figured I would see if I could start the coach, and it started with no problems. Surprisingly, about 10 seconds after the engine was running the power came back on in the coach. I was also able to start the generator again. Then I began troubleshooting: I unplugged the coach from shorepower, started the generator (with the coach engine running) and everything worked as expected. Then I turned off the ignition, the generator ran for about 10-15 seconds then shut down. All power was off. Not even anything from the house batteries. Then I did the same test with shore power connected. Same results, everything was fine as long as the engine was running (15-20 minutes at least) but as soon as I turn off the ignition, boom... no power. Notes: I do hear a "clunk" from the battery control center, right after starting the engine (at the same time the power comes back on). I also hear the same "clunk" when everything dies after turning off the ignition. Could the problem be in my BCC? Any tips on troubleshooting, or anyone that has had a similar issue? Thanks in advance for any help!

Dear members, I am looking at installing a central Vacuum system in my 2014 35k Bounder. First what are your thoughts on central Vacuum systems? Are they worth while? Did you do the install yourself? If yes on install did you mount Vacuum unit horizontally or vertically? In an outside compartment or internal cabinet? Leaning toward dirt devil 1500 but open to experience with other brands? Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks in advance.

So ...our new to us Coach is finally home in its parking spot in the drive way and we are happy. This coach is bigger than the last one parked in that spot so it took some adjusting but glad it fit. I never took the time to introduce my family so I guess ill do it now. We are the Hayes Family from Baltimore Big Guy in the Middle is Keon (THATS ME!!!!) -- Pretty Lady to the Right is Michelle (The CEO of the Family) The Princess to the Left with her hair in Mickey Mouse ears in Nyere (My Little Strawberry) The Short Fella in front, that is Kyle (THE BIIIIIG BABY) Sense this is FAMILY "MOTOR COACH" ASSOCIATION and the family part is done, figured I'd introduce what our family travels in. This is our 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34V. At 34'11" she is by far the biggest thing in our block on wheels. She stands 11'9" tall and currently weighs about 17147lbs (Something like that I think). As you probably can tell we like WDW and we love to eat. We will try almost anything that doesnt smell like it will kill us. So, if we are camping close to us and need taste testers ... we love a good greasy spoon. We also like to cook and I think my pork chops are the best on the grill - but fried in some old country LARD they are better. According to the keep it healthy folks that may not be the best to fry in as frying is now no longer good for us but COME ON ... I drive a vehicle that gets 7 Miles to the Gallon so if thats acceptable then lard will be too. We are open to most any adventure so feel free to invite us along especially if you cook and dont mind sharing. We dont mind sharing at all so it wil be fun. Most of our travels for 2017 will be along the I-95 east coast area just because vacation and conventions tend to be on the east coast for us this year. So, hopefully we will meet other folks that are members of FMCA along the way. Our two biggest trips will be a Week long in the Shenandoah the week of July 23 and we will end our week in Doswell VA at Kings Dominion Camp Ground Area. October 18th we leave for Orlando for a 10 day in the Orlando Area. We are going to make stops in North and South Carolina's Georgia over 3 days and Finally sometime Saturday get to Orlando. Will roll out Friday and come back up the Shenandoah Valley though southern VA and finally across I-70 home to Baltimore. Thats us ... Thanks everyone for being so kind. Hope to meet a BUNCH of yall real soon now!

I just pickup this 1986 Bounder. It's the 34' model. The problem is has is the head lights, radio and tv don't work. This happen according to the owner when the alternator was replaced. The fuses have been check. I was hoping maybe someone has the wiring diagrams for this the might be willing to share. I'd be willing to pay you for a copy Thanks, Bart