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lylefikse

Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve Popping

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Our pressure relief valve on the water heater is popping and releasing water both on the electric side and the gas side when up to temp.  Seems like our water is very hot, however I do not have a thermometer that will test that high of temp.  High limit problem or pressure valve problem??  Anyone else had a similar problem?

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24 minutes ago, lylefikse said:

Our pressure relief valve on the water heater is popping and releasing water both on the electric side and the gas side when up to temp.  Seems like our water is very hot, however I do not have a thermometer that will test that high of temp.  High limit problem or pressure valve problem??  Anyone else had a similar problem?

Without knowing the temps it would only be a guess. This is why a good infrared thermometer is an important part of my tool kit.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=laser+temperature+infrared+thermometer&tag=googhydr-20&index=industrial&hvadid=91332820709&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2021920202882703851&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027284&hvtargid=kwd-138791814781&ref=pd_sl_35fx6crinv_b

Bill

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Lyle,

Could be one of three issues:

Loss of air pocket-- re-establish one.

Weak pressure relief valve-- replace from most box stores.

Too hot-- replace thermostat and/or verify that thermostat is firmly attached to the tank.

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Should you travel with a meat thermometer, they read high enough to read the water temp coming from the water heater. If it reads high there is a good chance the high limit sensor is not making contact with the tank as mentioned by Brett.

The high temp is around 125 to 130 degrees F. 

Rich.

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As water heats, it WILL expand.

There should be an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank to absorb the expansion.  If the air pocket is not there, pressure WILL build and leak out the relief valve. Re-establish the air pocket by turning off pressure water and shore water, opening a faucet to relieve pressure and then remove the water heater drain plug (Atwood) or anode (Suburban).

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Thanks for the meat thermometer idea.  Water is way to hot.  145 plus.  I guess I need a new thermostat.  When it cools down I will check to see if this one is still attached.  Also I noticed the connections are corroded.  I'll hit those with electrical cleaner when things dry and cool.  100 miles to nearest RV dealer to get a new thermostat.  We will limp through until then.  More to follow when I get it fixed.

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Lyle. do you happen to have a by pass valve for water heater?  If you do, then just turn off the water and the heater and drain the tank...if you don't, then buy a two way valve at nearest hardware store...they come in real handy at times!

Carl

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Lyle,

Absolutely, verify that the thermostat is affixed to the tank.

If so, you can manually turn the water heater ON and OFF until convenient to replace the thermostat. 

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Two days until we get to a location where I can buy a thermostat.  One other issue.  When I start the water heater the light that is suppose to show when the water heater is calling for heat does not light.  The heater does heat and will not stop heating.  Is that light not coming on a problem or just an LED that is burned out on the board?

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1 hour ago, lylefikse said:

Two days until we get to a location where I can buy a thermostat.  One other issue.  When I start the water heater the light that is suppose to show when the water heater is calling for heat does not light.  The heater does heat and will not stop heating.  Is that light not coming on a problem or just an LED that is burned out on the board?

Lyle, The Red LED coms on when the LP flame do not come on in most cases. You had a reading of 145 deg. if I remember correctly. Think the thermal fuse opened.

There is a thermal fuse that is connected to the High limit thermal sensor. It is generally enclosed in a clear section of tubing.  With the unit turn off you can remove the connector from the pin it is connected to( NOTE it is a tight connection) so hold the sensor by pressing it towards the tank  while carefully wiggling the connector to remove it. You should read a short if its good and open if it did its job and shut down the water heater if things got too hot. With the LED coming on it might have failed. That Red LED is tell you something is not right.

Rich.

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OK call me cheap.  I looked on Amazon and the thermostat I need is $11.06 with free shipping.  We are not in a location where we are staying put long enough to have it shipped.  Overnight pushes the cost way up.  Our water heater works fine if we shut it off when done with hot water.  Yesterday I went into a Camping World to get the part.  On Amazon it is the complete kit, gasket and all.  Camping World the gasket is separate. I didn't even ask how much the gasket was as they wanted $44 for the thermostat.  I said no thanks and walked out.  I would have paid double for the convenience but come on, 4 times the price.  I don't think so!  I wait until we a in one location long enough to have it shipped.

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Good grief...that's insane?  :wacko:  I guess Marcos was not kidding, when he said that all the money is in aftermarket...CW is now a stock corp. on the NYSE.

Carl

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Got the new thermostat via Amazon.  After installing them, almost no change.  Still leaks out the pressure relief valve.  Difference is the water coming out is 125 degrees not 145. Next step is a new pressure relief valve.  More updates to follow. 

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Lyle,

Have you verified that you do have an air pocket at the top of the water heater. 

I would verify that before spending $$ on a pressure relief valve..

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I agree with Brett.  Turn off your water and the hot water heater and drain the hot water tank. This would be a good time to flush out the bottom of the  tank. Put the plug in and just let it fill. This will create a air bubble in the top of the tank. Sometimes the leaking pressure relief valve can be caused by mineral deposits or just a bit of crud in the valve seat. Try turning the pressure relief valve back and forth and see if it cleans the valve seat. By the way you don't need a super special one from Camping World, one from Home Depot works just the same for about $15.00. Take your old one with you.

Bill 

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Yes I verified that the air pocket was intact.  No difference.  I installed a new pressure relief valve today and everything is working fine now.  No leaks.  The old valve almost fell apart in my hands.   It was shot.  Great hot water and no more geyser.

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