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Hard-Piping Thetford Sanicon Sewer Dump Line

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Just sharing my latest project which is to hard-plumb/pipe my Thetford Sanicon Sewer discharge dump line from inside my wet bay to the exterior/underside of my 45' DP for anyone interested in such a project.

This project came about owing to a number of factors, 

1) For whatever reason (yet to be explained by Newmar), my coach was supplied with a 1-1/2" wide channel exit profile on the outward face of the wet bay basement door apparently intended as a space for the Sanicon hose to exit the bay while allowing the bay door to be closed. When doing so, I found that the profile was too narrow and often resulted in pinching, thus breaking, the hose requiring me to replace it. In addition (and again yet to be explained by Newmar), my coach was not provided with a sewer compartment floor access hatch for routing either the conventional/standard 3"OD or the Sanicon 1-1/2" OD sewer dump hose(s) through.

2) On occasions, I have needed to extend the length of the Sanicon hose in order to reach camp site dump receptacles. This was not easily done and often had me switch back to using my conventional 3" sewer dump system. This modification will enable doing so by using a 2nd section of the Sanicon hose with male/female cam lever coupling fittings attached.

3) When "camped" it is my desire to be able to fully close my wet bay compartment door including such times when the gray water dump valve remains in the open position. Prior to this mod, such was not possible due to closing of the door would result in the pinching off or crimping of either size dump hose.


A work in still in progress i'm now awaiting delivery of special ordered PVC fittings and clamp/hangers to connect a clear section of hose to (between Sanicon drain outlet and new Valterra slip gate valve) as well as some strap/clamps I plan to use to secure the piping and cam lever coupler in place. Completion of this project will include making up a separate/spare section of the 1-1/2" Sanicon hose with male/female Cam Lever connections that will permit me to add an additional length up to 21ft when needed. The purpose of the small section of 1-1/2" clear spiral hose is to enable me to witness when dumping is completed (be evidence of clear water).

Noteworthy of adding, the Sanicon hose is normally "wet" (retains some fluid likely due to a small amount of internal bypass) so adding the slip gate valve downstream of it is intended to allow my connecting the dump hose by means of the cam-lever couplings without coming into contact with the waste water. It is also being positioned in such a way that appropriate road clearance will be maintained.

Meanwhile, here are a few photos of this project....
 

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Rick.

Good idea if you like the sanicon system!  I'm no fan of it...new mouse trap.  I had the same problem with pinching the 1 1/2", so I got rid of the system.  My bay has the hole for the conventional 3" dump line and a lid for when it's not hooked up...I dump gray water about every 4 days on average and gray/black every week, my tanks are 80/60.  

Still interested in seeing how your getting along, with your project. 

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Rick,

Looks like a fun project!

Our coach came with a Sanicon system.  Fortunately Monaco still supplied the 4" cut-out with treaded cap for the traditional hose.  So, I never disconnect the Sanicon flex hose.  Rather just cap the end fitting and feed the hose back into the bay.  I did however, order a second hose and added it to the original.  That allows me much longer reach for dumping.

I like your idea of using the Cam-lock fittings - quick and easy.

Blake

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Failed to state the obvious; Upon completion I sealed the rubber flange gasket on the bottom of the belly pan with some RVT then applied some 3M Undercoating to the piping (section exiting the belly pan) as additional protection against road debris. Also still need to install a 2" caddy clamp on the flange of the 90° elbow to the small bracket as can be seen for additional stability. At normal ride height the bottom of the female cam lever coupler is approx. 9" off the ground (as can be witnessed by comparison to my Oasis exhaust pipe). The small stainless cable is just to tether the male plug when the system is in use.

All in, I figure the project cost was <$150 including the purchase of an additional 21' section of the sanicon discharge hose which I can now add to the existing hose easily by using the M/F cam lever couplings allowing me to extend my sewer dump line hose up to 42 ft. when needed. 

And, as any wise man would do, I still carry 2 sections of conventional 3" dump line flex hose in my separate hose storage compartment in the event I'll ever need it.

Note: the white channel seen running horizontally along the base of the belly pan is part of my recently installed full surround Under Glow LEDs which as you can see are shielded by use of the aluminum extrusion channel and diffuser panels.

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Rick.

I'm still amazed that Newmar did not do that kind of fit and finish on their High End Coach to begin with!  You used some good imagination to come up with this solution, it's apparent that Newmar needs Engineer's for their potty system!

Job well done!  I think I would go one step further and add a piece of metal as a heat shield between the exterior piping and Oasis exhaust...It also will help in debris management.  

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4 hours ago, manholt said:

Rick.

I'm still amazed that Newmar did not do that kind of fit and finish on their High End Coach to begin with!  You used some good imagination to come up with this solution, it's apparent that Newmar needs Engineer's for their potty system!

Job well done!  I think I would go one step further and add a piece of metal as a heat shield between the exterior piping and Oasis exhaust...It also will help in debris management.  

Carl,

Yes, I agree and Newmar did apologize for what was somewhat of a manufacturing/production oversight on my particular coach (as other '17 KA, EX and LAs received changes that incorporate better dump hose management). Newmar did also agree to retro-fit mine but I felt that would be time consuming to undertake such wherein they paid to have a 3" hole drilled through the drip pan & belly pan per my specification and owing to my plan to affix the exterior dump line drain connection.

As to your comment on heat, the distance between the two is actually enough that I suspect residual heat from the Oasis exhaust pipe will never become an issue. (It's likely 14-16" just doesn't look that far by the photos besides the Oasis only fires intermittenly and thus does not run continuously). The issue of exhaust heat from the Oasis is far more concerning with potential effect upon the sewer hose itself in than one has to be careful when routing it out and away from the coach. All the more reason my having a 2nd (optional) sanicon 1-1/2" discharge hose that will now quick connect and allow me the additional length if and when needed.  Still behooves me how some parks/campgrounds including newer ones still tend to place their ground level sewer dump cap connections on individual pads at the far ends nearer to the corners instead of something midway.  Also, the extended reach will be good for rally type parking as well (as i recently had to run out and buy a 3rd section of 3" hose when attending the Newmar Intl. Rally in Sedalia due to the distance. (I already had two lengths and that still wasn't enough).

Herman,

We're still working our 2018 Spring/Summer travel plans & schedule but at the moment it remains uncertain if we'll make it to Perry in March. If it comes about we will attend, I'll be certain to get in touch beforehand.

Regards, Rick

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On January 26, 2018 at 5:28 AM, hermanmullins said:

Rick,

Will you be in Perry? Would like to see your setup up close.

Herman

Herman,

We actually registered for Perry last night and now plan to attend.  That being stated, we will plan to try and arrive 1-2 days before the start of the Rally and may have to leave a day earlier, i.e. on the 17th as we have a new baby grand-daughter that is due to arrive on the 21st of March and want to be back home for that event. That lil' gal will be the first girl borne on my side of the family in 3 generations! 

This will be our 1st attendance to a FMCA rally so any insight you and Carl can give me will be helpful i.e. are early arrivals accepted? and if yes, what do we need to do in order to schedule an early arrival? Our attendee package is being mailed to us so I'm presently unaware of what is possible. I'm now searching out stopovers on the route to Perry and factoring 3-days to get there as we typically don't like to drive more than 250-300 miles per day. Any particular route you planning to take? Advice is always welcomed. Same goes for you Carl (knowing you'll be seeing this post).

Will be nice to meet both of you in person.

Regards,

Rick 

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Rick,

I am not familiar with early arrivals. I am always there with the advanced crew. When you arrive send me a text with your location. I will PM you my number.  How will you go going to Perry, I-10 to I-75?

Herman

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5 hours ago, manholt said:

Rick.  Did you get 50A?

Yes. And I suppose as with most large rally's pump out and fresh water re-supply services are/will be available. Again, haven't gotten the Rally Package yet which I am sure will have lots of info in it.

 

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After thought. After completing my recent Thetford Sanicon hard piping project I realized there just wasn't enough light in the wet bay compartment so using a surplus section of LED lighting strip I mounted it and tied it into the existing small 12v dome light Newmar installs on the left wall near the door hinge. What a difference a little light makes! I now think I'll do the same up front in my generator slide compartment (where there is currently no lighting) as well as the engine compartment (only has 12v dome light now) and as well the chassis electrical basement compartment (LF forward of steer tire). My view (or lack of it) being one can never have too much light in these areas when its needed and as well, installing them are easy to do and make a huge difference...

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19 hours ago, hermanmullins said:

Rick,

I am not familiar with early arrivals. I am always there with the advanced crew. When you arrive send me a text with your location. I will PM you my number.  How will you go going to Perry, I-10 to I-75?

Herman

Looks as if I'll take IH10 >IH65 then 280/80 into Perry. 

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We will be going across I-20 to Meridian, MS then 80 to Montgomery, AL. I-85 to Opelika, AL , 280 to Columbus then US 80 into Perry. We will be at Fair Harbor RV Park  in Perry on the 8th and on the grounds the 9th. This will be our third trip to Perry.  

Herman

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Rich,

280/80 is the scenic route, I took it 2 years ago and it's a mix of one and 2 lane  road, lots of little towns, had no problem just the occasional farmer who forgot that the truck has 2 more gears! 90% of the road is good.  You know how wonderful I-10 is from Exit 100 to Henderson, & Slidell area, well I-20 is no dream either in Jackson, so your choice is just as good as any.

Most, if not all 50A sites in Perry, last time I was there, comes with full hook up!

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Might be a good idea for someone to start a  "Travel Routes To Perry" as a new topic, as many will be interested and unlikely to find it here in the sewer thread.

Thanks.

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