GFCI Outlet No Power

[bburns8]

Question:  If the alternator is out/not working will the needle on the instrument panel not move at all (because it is staying in the normal position)?

13 hours ago, manholt said:

If you call the REV Tech department and give them your VIN# and FIN#, they will download the electrical schematic for your coach.  Have you done that?

Thanks, no I have not done this.

[wolfe10]

The voltmeter in the dash gauges shows chassis battery voltage (or should-- certainly it is a number of feet of wire and likely a number of electrical connections between batteries and dash).

So, when you turn ignition on (don't try to start) it should read "low" at both chassis battery and dash, as it is powering the INTAKE MANIFOLD HEATER and on some engines the electric fuel pump. 

Same for when you start the engine-- the starter takes a lot of amps which lowers battery voltage.

Once started and above idle (that is why we suggested using cruise/switch to raise idle RPM to 1,100 or so, voltage should go up to the high 13's/low 14's.

WHAT ARE THE READINGS AT THE CHASSIS BATTERIES IN EACH OF THESE CONDITIONS.  WHAT DOES THE DASH GAUGE SHOW.

But, low readings do not necessarily mean that the alternator is bad.  Depending on how your coach is wired, it could mean a bad battery isolator or bad sense wire connection that would give exactly the same symptoms.  This is why an electrical schematic is so important, as is verifying what kind of battery isolator you have (solenoid or diode-based isolator).

Yes, if you do not have a digital voltmeter-- BUY ONE.  They re under $20 and indispensable in diagnosing electric issues in a motorhome. Any box store, hardware store or auto parts house will have them.

 

[bburns8]

3 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

Yes, if you do not have a digital voltmeter-- BUY ONE. 

Thanks Wolfe10.  I have a digital voltmeter.

[wolfe10]

Let us know what readings you get.

[bburns8]

On 8/31/2018 at 2:29 PM, wolfe10 said:

Let us know what readings you get.

I didn't disconnect the solenoid.  It is hard to get to and I'm not comfortable disconnecting it.

Chassis battery volt readings in series

Not plugged into shore power = 12.71 volts

Engine running idle 5-10 minutes = 12.20 volts

Engine RPMs at 1500 for 5 minutes = 12.18 volts

Engine running idle after testing RPMs = 12.17 volts

Engine turned off = 12.62 volts

Plugged into shore power = 12.64 volts

[wolfe10]

You are not charging from the alternator OR shore power.

Again it could be the alternator or it could be the battery isolator or wiring.

And, your converter, charger or inverter/charger may or may not be working.  As stated earlier, they only charge the house bank on many coaches. 

What do your house batteries read?

And what does your chassis battery read when boost/combine switch is ON?

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:

You are not charging from the alternator OR shore power.

Again it could be the alternator or it could be the battery isolator or wiring.

And, your converter, charger or inverter/charger may or may not be working.  As stated earlier, they only charge the house bank on many coaches. 

What do your house batteries read?

And what does your chassis battery read when boost/combine switch is ON?

I am not at the coach right now but will test the boost/combine switch when I get back.

House batteries are not getting a charge.  I'm using the stand alone battery charger twice a day to keep them charged.  When house batteries have a full charge, I take the charger off and by evening I will check them and they have dropped down to 12.50 volts or lower.  The only load on the house batteries is the AC, the fridge is on propane and a few interior LED lights at night.

Is the coach drivable like this to go 50 miles?  The only place qualified that can get to the coach right away is 50 miles away.  I didn't want to have it towed if I didn't have too.

[manholt]

There is a circuit breaker on your inverter/charger, have you looked to see that it's on?  small green light will blink if on.  On your Magnum panel, do you have the inverter on or charger?  Is that in town or city 50 miles, or country? On a Hwy or Interstate, I would do it.  Does the Generator work? 

[wolfe10]

Yes, if you fully charge the house battery bank and don't run extra 12 VDC stuff such as lights, dash fan, etc, should easily make 50 miles.

Options:

If you see chassis battery voltage dropping below about 12.1 VDC. stop and use the generator and auxiliary charger to bring the battery back up.

OR

Fully charger both battery banks and use the battery boost/combine to provide more battery capacity-- more driving time.

Again, strange that both 120 VAC and alternator charging have gone out at the same time.  But, agree you really need someone who knows coach wiring to help you.

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:

Yes, if you fully charge the house battery bank and don't run extra 12 VDC stuff such as lights, dash fan, etc, should easily make 50 miles.

Options:

If you see chassis battery voltage dropping below about 12.1 VDC. stop and use the generator and auxiliary charger to bring the battery back up.

OR

Fully charger both battery banks and use the battery boost/combine to provide more battery capacity-- more driving time.

Again, strange that both 120 VAC and alternator charging have gone out at the same time.  But, agree you really need someone who knows coach wiring to help you.

Both chassis and house battery voltage drop when the engine is running.  When I turn on the generator it is not charging the house batteries and the voltage on the house batteries drops below 12 and automatically turns the generator off.  I am not able to use the generator at all because of this issue right now.

[wolfe10]

If the generator is quitting because of low voltage-- have you tried running it with the auxiliary battery charger plugged in?

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, manholt said:

There is a circuit breaker on your inverter/charger, have you looked to see that it's on?  small green light will blink if on.  On your Magnum panel, do you have the inverter on or charger?  Is that in town or city 50 miles, or country? On a Hwy or Interstate, I would do it.  Does the Generator work? 

The circuit breakers are on.

The inverter and charger are both turned on.

The generator works but I cannot run the generator because the voltage on the house batteries drops below 12 and automatically turns off the generator.

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:

If the generator is quitting because of low voltage-- have you tried running it with the auxiliary battery charger plugged in?

No.  Do you mean the stand alone battery charger?

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, bburns8 said:

Is that in town or city 50 miles, or country? On a Hwy or Interstate, I would do it. 

It is highway miles.

[wolfe10]

1 hour ago, bburns8 said:

No.  Do you mean the stand alone battery charger?

YES

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:

1 hour ago, bburns8 said:

No.  Do you mean the stand alone battery charger?

YES

No, I have not tried that.  I didn't think it was safe to have it turned on and charging the house batteries with the engine running.

[wolfe10]

As long as you insure that the connections can not fall/jump off on the road, no problem running the generator and charging either/ both battery banks.

You don't say what amp charger you have, but worse case is borrow a higher output one for the trip.

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:

As long as you insure that the connections can not fall/jump off on the road, no problem running the generator and charging either/ both battery banks.

You don't say what amp charger you have, but worse case is borrow a higher output one for the trip.

I have two chargers.  One is producing 10 amps and I'm using that one on the house batteries.  The other one is producing 8 amps and I'm using that one on the chassis batteries.  I plug the standalone charger into the 110 outlet.  

How would I use the stand alone charger driving?  I would need to plug it in to use it.

[wolfe10]

1 hour ago, bburns8 said:

How would I use the stand alone charger driving?  I would need to plug it in to use it.

Certainly it would need to be plugged in. Your generator will power the outlet you plug it into.

And, again you would need to secure the 12 VAC ends so they do not jump off while driving.

[bburns8]

What does the "Main Battery" and "Aux Battery" rocker switch do?  Asking because I have the Auxillary start rocker switch on the side of the driver and I have the "Main Battery" and "Aux Battery" rocker switches above the driver.

[dickandlois]

1 hour ago, bburns8 said:

What does the "Main Battery" and "Aux Battery" rocker switch do?  Asking because I have the Auxillary start rocker switch on the side of the driver and I have the "Main Battery" and "Aux Battery" rocker switches above the driver.

The Main and Aux Switches connect or disconnect the batteries from most of the 12 volt circuit loads.  If the chassis battery is disconnected, You will not be able to start the coach- IF the circuit is working properly. The same is true with the Auxiliary circuit, also referred to as the Coach or salesman switch. It disconnects most of the load from the 12 volt circuits that power lights, AC and heating controls, Refrigerator, water pump, water heater and a number of other items - depending on any number of accessories.

The Aux start switch connects the coach batteries to the chassis batteries as long as the switch is held on(it is a none locking switch)and is like connecting a jumper cable to the engine batteries to assist in starting the coach engine and or the generator on many coaches.

There are always phantom loads on a  system. A fob operated entry system is one example and there are others / depending on how many convenience items are installed in the coaches.

Rich. 

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, DickandLois said:

The Main and Aux Switches connect or disconnect the batteries from most of the 12 volt circuit loads.  If the chassis battery is disconnected, You will not be able to start the coach- IF the circuit is working properly. The same is true with the Auxiliary circuit, also referred to as the Coach or salesman switch. It disconnects most of the load from the 12 volt circuits that power lights, AC and heating controls, Refrigerator, water pump, water heater and a number of other items - depending on any number of accessories.

The Aux start switch connects the coach batteries to the chassis batteries as long as the switch is held on(it is a none locking switch)and is like connecting a jumper cable to the engine batteries to assist in starting the coach engine and or the generator on many coaches.

Rich. 

Thank you Rich, I appreciate it.

[bburns8]

23 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

And what does your chassis battery read when boost/combine switch is ON?

Chassis batteries with engine running idle = 12.12 volts

Chassis batteries with engine running idle and boost on = 12.23 volts

[wolfe10]

1 hour ago, bburns8 said:

Chassis batteries with engine running idle = 12.12 volts

Chassis batteries with engine running idle and boost on = 12.23 volts

NOT enough to allow a 50 mile drive.  You need batteries at at least 12.8 VDC (fully charged battery at rest).  With charger on-- around 14 VDC.

[bburns8]

1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:

NOT enough to allow a 50 mile drive.  You need batteries at at least 12.8 VDC (fully charged battery at rest).  With charger on-- around 14 VDC.

I have the standalone charger on the chassis batteries right now.  If the chassis batteries get a full charge higher than12.8 VDC would I be able to drive it 50 miles?  If yes, would I be able to drive it 50 miles without the standalone charger on?