Daneast1 Report post Posted September 1, 2018 On my 2009 Coachmen CrossCountry 383 FWS, I’m getting a fault (red light) on my panel which shuts off my 110 to coach. If I hit the reset it will give me 110 for 10-15 secs then shuts down again. Got any idea where to start? Thks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 1, 2018 Could be improperly wired 120 VAC outlet. Test with a voltmeter IF you are safe working around 120 VAC: Long straight is neutral Short straight is hot Round is ground SO: Short straight to either long straight or to round= 120 VAC Long straight to round= 0 VAC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daneast1 Report post Posted September 1, 2018 Thks for ur input. Everything was working yesterday on 110v before I replaced the two 6v coach batteries. Everything seems to work fine on 12v now. I have not hooked up the temperature sensor for the charger to the positive side of coach battery due to cable being to short. Understand this ties into the inverter/charger. Would this cause the fault? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 1, 2018 No the battery temperature sensor should not cause a 120 VAC issue. It will just modify the inverter/charger's battery charging algorithms a little, particularly when batteries deeply discharged. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daneast1 Report post Posted September 1, 2018 Thks for ur help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted September 1, 2018 Daneast1, Is the coach Gas or Diesel powered? Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 1, 2018 Rich, DP! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted September 2, 2018 23 hours ago, Daneast1 said: On my 2009 Coachmen CrossCountry 383 FWS, I’m getting a fault (red light) on my panel which shuts off my 110 to coach. If I hit the reset it will give me 110 for 10-15 secs then shuts down again. Got any idea where to start? Thks Carl, Thanks for posting . Diesel coach would be an Elite or Legend series. That series is equipped with a Magnum Power inverter / charger and a 50 amp EMS power load center.The original poster did replied to thank Brett for his response to the temperature sensor wire for the coach battery charge rate. No mention of trying to run the generator - to see if the system did not time off. Hope he figured out how to setup the load center or is now connected to a 50 amp service. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daneast1 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 Thanks, Rich! Still scratching my head on this. Yes, coach does have the magnum power inverter/charger. No access to external 50 amp other than generator. Ur suggestion is to run the generator and see if problem still exist? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted September 2, 2018 Answering for Rich, yes try on the generator to see if same results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 2, 2018 I got the Magnum 2,800. I have no temp indicator on my panel, just the amperage of both inv/charger. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 1 hour ago, manholt said: I got the Magnum 2,800. I have no temp indicator on my panel, just the amperage of both inv/charger. The battery temperature sensor is attached to the battery post and the other end to the inverter/charger. Usually with a "telephone-type connection". It has two functions: As ambient/battery temperature drops, charging voltage goes up. For those with no temperature sensor, most inverter/chargers allow the user to tell it "cold" vs "hot" ambient temperature. So, if only the manual/owner input, it needs to be changed at least seasonally. Related to the above: If battery temperature rises too much, it reduces voltage (and therefore charging amps) so as to not overheat the batteries. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daneast1 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 I still get the red fault light intermittently w/generator running. Also, while generator is running inverter kicks in and out every 10-15 sec. Green light is blinking constantly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 1 hour ago, Daneast1 said: I still get the red fault light intermittently w/generator running. Also, while generator is running inverter kicks in and out every 10-15 sec. Green light is blinking constantly. Good diagnostics (checking whether problem still happens on generator as well as shore power). If the same fault occurs on both shore power and generator, "first suspect" is a bad connection in the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). With generator, shore power and inverter OFF, remove the lid and check for clean, tight, non-burned connections. If no issues there, look at the main 120 VAC breaker box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 2, 2018 Brett, thanks...I got one on each inverter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daneast1 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 On 9/1/2018 at 6:53 AM, wolfe10 said: Is the automatic transfer switch the 6x6x3 metal box in the power cord compartment? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 2, 2018 Yes. Make sure that nothing is on...Too late for 4th of July! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daneast1 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 Thanks, Rich! Still scratching my head on this. Yes, coach does have the magnum power inverter/charger. No access to external 50 amp other than generator. Ur suggestion is to run the generator and see if problem still exist? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 4 hours ago, wolfe10 said: Good diagnostics (checking whether problem still happens on generator as well as shore power). If the same fault occurs on both shore power and generator, "first suspect" is a bad connection in the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). With generator, shore power and inverter OFF, remove the lid and check for clean, tight, non-burned connections. If no issues there, look at the main 120 VAC breaker box. Sorry, I though you had already confirmed that the problem existed on BOTH generator and shore power. They are totally separate until the ATS. Both generator and shore power come IN to the ATS. One cable (4 wires) go from the ATS goes OUT to the main 120 VAC breaker box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daneast1 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 All connections tight. Everything in there is very clean. Any other suggestions. Help is very much appreciated.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 If , actually IF, safe working around 240 VAC, check voltage at the ATS-- both on IN and OUT sides. There will be two hots-- usually red and black One neutral, white. One ground, green Correct readings: Either red or black to either white or green- 120 VAC Red to black 240 VAC White to green 0 VAC If that checks out, repeat at main breaker box-- same colors, same readings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daneast1 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 Yes, I did confirm fault is with both 110 and generator running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted September 2, 2018 Dan, The problem is common to both shore power and generator power. That Would put the ATS at the starting point. You need to have the proper skill set to work on electrical systems with a total voltage level of 240 volts. Not really something that most RV owners should get into. All the wiring must be connected properly between the ATS and The main power panel and sub power panel. and branches out from them to the inverter / charger and all the 120 volt circuit breakers. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 2, 2018 TOTALLY AGREE. hence the IF above. 240 VAC can be lethal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
