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Daneast1

Electrical fault when plugged into 110

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On my 2009 Coachmen CrossCountry 383 FWS,  I’m getting a fault (red light) on my panel which shuts off my 110 to coach. If I hit the reset it will give me 110 for 10-15 secs then shuts down again. Got any idea where to start? Thks

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Could be improperly wired 120 VAC outlet.

Test with a voltmeter IF you are safe working around 120 VAC:

Long straight is neutral

Short straight is hot

Round is ground

SO:

Short straight to either long straight or to round= 120 VAC

Long straight to round= 0 VAC

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Thks for ur input. Everything was working yesterday on 110v before I replaced the two 6v coach batteries. Everything seems to work fine on 12v now. I have not hooked up the temperature sensor for the charger to the positive side of coach battery due to cable being to short. Understand this ties into the inverter/charger. Would this cause the fault?

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No the battery temperature sensor should not cause a 120 VAC issue.  It will just modify the inverter/charger's battery charging algorithms a little, particularly when batteries deeply discharged.

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23 hours ago, Daneast1 said:

On my 2009 Coachmen CrossCountry 383 FWS,  I’m getting a fault (red light) on my panel which shuts off my 110 to coach. If I hit the reset it will give me 110 for 10-15 secs then shuts down again. Got any idea where to start? Thks

Carl, Thanks for posting . Diesel coach would be an Elite  or Legend series. 

That series is equipped with a Magnum Power inverter / charger and a 50 amp EMS power load center.The original poster did replied to thank Brett for his response to the temperature sensor wire for the coach battery charge rate. 

No mention of trying to run the generator - to see if the system did not time off.

Hope he figured out how to setup the load center or is now connected to a 50 amp service.

Rich.

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Thanks, Rich! Still scratching my head on this. Yes, coach does have the magnum power inverter/charger. No access to external 50 amp other than generator.  Ur suggestion is to run the generator and see if problem still exist?

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1 hour ago, manholt said:

I got the Magnum 2,800.  I have no temp indicator on my panel, just the amperage of both inv/charger.

The battery temperature sensor is attached to the battery post and the other end to the inverter/charger. Usually with a "telephone-type connection".

It has two functions:

As ambient/battery temperature drops, charging voltage goes up. For those with no temperature sensor, most inverter/chargers allow the user to tell it "cold" vs "hot" ambient temperature. So, if only the manual/owner input, it needs to be changed at least seasonally.

Related to the above: If battery temperature rises too much, it reduces voltage (and therefore charging amps) so as to not overheat the batteries.

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1 hour ago, Daneast1 said:

I still get the red fault light intermittently  w/generator running. Also, while generator is running inverter kicks in and out every 10-15 sec. Green light is blinking constantly. 

Good diagnostics (checking whether problem still happens on generator as well as shore power).

If the same fault occurs on both shore power and generator, "first suspect" is a bad connection in the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch).  With generator, shore power and inverter OFF, remove the lid and check for clean, tight, non-burned connections. 

If no issues there, look at the main 120 VAC breaker box.

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Thanks, Rich! Still scratching my head on this. Yes, coach does have the magnum power inverter/charger. No access to external 50 amp other than generator.  Ur suggestion is to run the generator and see if problem still exist?

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4 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

Good diagnostics (checking whether problem still happens on generator as well as shore power).

If the same fault occurs on both shore power and generator, "first suspect" is a bad connection in the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch).  With generator, shore power and inverter OFF, remove the lid and check for clean, tight, non-burned connections. 

If no issues there, look at the main 120 VAC breaker box.

Sorry, I though you had already confirmed that the problem existed on BOTH generator and shore power.  They are totally separate until the ATS.  Both generator and shore power come IN to the ATS.  One cable (4 wires) go from the ATS goes OUT to  the main 120 VAC breaker box.

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If , actually IF, safe working around 240 VAC, check voltage at the ATS-- both on IN and OUT sides.

There will be two hots-- usually red and black

One neutral, white.

One ground, green

 

Correct readings:

Either red or black to either white or green- 120 VAC

Red to black 240 VAC

White to green 0 VAC

 

If that checks out, repeat at main breaker box-- same colors, same readings.

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Dan, The problem is common to both shore power and generator power.  That Would put the ATS at the starting point. You need to have the proper skill set to work on electrical systems with  a total voltage level of 240 volts. Not really something that most RV owners should get into. All the wiring must be connected properly between the ATS and The main power panel and sub power panel. and branches out from them to the inverter / charger and all the 120 volt circuit breakers.

Rich.

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