jleamont Report post Posted October 28, 2018 Cummins redesigned their water pump on these engines in and around our year, 2002. This pump has larger bearings and more coolant flow. Annually I remove the belts and spin the pulleys to see if I can feel a bearing problem, water pump was a bit loose. I figured this would also be a good time to do a cooling system conversion to OAT. Purchased the decal for the coolant tank for $.35 from a Freightliner dealer. Photos; Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted October 28, 2018 Joe, Thanks for the up date! Plastic parts have there advantages, but they still make me nervous. They tend to work right up to the point where they self destruct . Now, enlighten me. What is the chemical base of the coolant required ? Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 28, 2018 1 hour ago, DickandLois said: Now, enlighten me. What is the chemical base of the coolant required ? Rich. Coolant requirements have not changed. Either "low silicate for diesel with added SCA" or the new generation OAT-based coolants are approved. Think of the OAT-based coolants at "maintenance-free". 6 years, zero checks, no SCA to monitor and add, etc. Both Cummins and Caterpillar as well as other suppliers have had the OAT-based coolants available for over a decade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted October 28, 2018 Thanks Brett ! For whatever reason I never picked up on it. I did take some time to expand my lack of knowledge on this one. I have used extended life coolants, but never took the time to find out what contributed to the ability to extend the life cycle. It appears, some HOAT formulas claim compatibility with certain OAT formulas or IAT. Just something else added to the sauce ! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted October 28, 2018 Rich, I agree on the pump with that impeller, it was a concern but I don’t see them fail like they did 20 years ago when introduced. I installed a filter without the SCA precharge, with the OAT it’s just like Brett mentioned, no fuss! I will check PH and freeze protection annually for my own piece of mind. I also installed valves on the heater core and Aquahot water lines, just in case one has an issue I can shut it off and continue on our way. It took a while to purge all of the old coolant out, I rigged up a regulator on a blow gun and sent 8psi of air down the hoses to remove all old coolant. Pulled the system into a Vacuum and filled it that way. The water pump, took me 10 minutes to replace, got to love a side radiator! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted October 28, 2018 Thanks Joe ! Isolation valves are for the most part are a little over kill, but could come in handy !!! After Brett enlightened me regarding the Oat info I did do some fallow up reading and added this tidbit . It appears, some HOAT formulas claim compatibility with certain OAT formulas or IAT. Just something else added to the sauce ! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 29, 2018 I know the OAT, what's the HOAT? Acronyms can drive you nuts! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted October 29, 2018 1 hour ago, manholt said: I know the OAT, what's the HOAT? Acronyms can drive you nuts! Carl, The H just means Hybrid and it is not always attached to the OAT information - one in the same over all . What color is Hoat coolant? OAT coolants are currently easily available from most auto parts stores. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology or HOAT: This coolant is usually dyed yellow but comes in other colors like green, pink, blue, red and orange, which leads to a lot of confusion. Some mix's can be mixed together others are not really compatible. All in the Chemistry ! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted November 5, 2018 Some finished photos. Oil changed today also. I bought a Wix/Napa filter, part number 1748xd, that filter will be coming off before the first trip! It has 1/2 of the oil entry holes than the Cummins OEM. From my seat that translates into low oil flow! You get what you pay for comes to mind! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted November 5, 2018 Joe, you posted this It has 1/2 of the oil entry holes than the Cummins OEM. From my seat that translates into low oil flow! ?? Did you mean the Cummings - has fewer holes then the Wix filter ? Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted November 5, 2018 18 minutes ago, DickandLois said: Joe, you posted this It has 1/2 of the oil entry holes than the Cummins OEM. From my seat that translates into low oil flow! ?? Did you mean the Cummings - has fewer holes then the Wix filter ? Rich. No, the Wix has fewer holes than the Cummins Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SegwayGuyTampa Report post Posted December 3, 2020 On 11/4/2018 at 7:29 PM, jleamont said: Hello, I'm about to attempt this very same job. Was wondering if you had any tips. Looks like with a bar, you can remove the tension, take the belt off the pulley and unless there's something hidden, looks like 3 bolts. Anything on the inside I should be aware of? Is it necessary to drain the coolant? Probably a great time to do a flush and refill with new. Based on your comment about the oil flow, would you recommend a different part? Thanks. (Looks like we have a very similar coach) Some finished photos. Oil changed today also. I bought a Wix/Napa filter, part number 1748xd, that filter will be coming off before the first trip! It has 1/2 of the oil entry holes than the Cummins OEM. From my seat that translates into low oil flow! You get what you pay for comes to mind! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted December 3, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, SegwayGuyTampa said: Literally as simple as remove the belt and the three bolts holding the pump in place, tap the old pump pulley with a mallet (Incase it’s stuck in place). I agree it is a great time to replace the coolant. The new pump has an o-ring seal. I would lube it with new coolant prior to installing. If I were to do it again I’d paint the pump first or after installation. Edited December 3, 2020 by jleamont Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
