theoilchanger Report post Posted June 3, 2020 Hi All--you may be interested in the extensive repair I undertook last January (2019) to overcome an issue that stemmed from a manufacturing defect of our 2012 Skyline Nomad 21' bunkhouse travel trailer. In short, it was clear after we purchased it that water was getting into the wall in the aft starboard section of the rig, which happens to be the dry bath. Turns out the lap-jointed aluminum was not fully sealed and water ended up getting into the walls. Spoiler: added a piece of galvanized roofing flashing on the top/rear joint to ensure water can never leak into the walls even if the sealant comes up. I hope you enjoy! Blog here: https://saffrenbloom.com Please let me know what you think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted June 3, 2020 Need to ask. Does the aluminum come in direct contact with the Galvanized roof flashing? The different materials can / will have a reaction do to the difference in atomic structures of the materials . https://elnamagnetics.com/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/Leadertech/Galvanic-Potential-Differneces.pdf Material interaction Chart link. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theoilchanger Report post Posted June 3, 2020 oooh yes indeed...good call. Like when you need a dielectric union in plumbing. Fortunately I loaded up the seam with a whole bunch of RV sealant and made sure it was squeezing out when I zipped up the top screws. I want to think that that barrier will do the trick. Will now keep an eye for any signs of corrosion up there. Suppose could always slip a piece of wood furring strip in there. Thank you! Keep 'em coming. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted June 3, 2020 Packing seal tape works well between dissimilar metals, and will usually hold up longer than the metal itself as long as it is not exposed to direct sunlight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted June 3, 2020 Lookes like a better job than "factory" they don't bother treating or priming and painting. That is why a simple leak is so deevestating. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theoilchanger Report post Posted June 3, 2020 I can tell you that when I buy my next rig I will tear off the trim on top aft to make the same mod I did here. Because the two pieces of tin butt-jointed up top the mastic was the only water barrier. There was just this tiny little pinprick of a leak that led to all that work. I'm at a loss why they just couldn't roll a top aluminum sheet an extra inch long to have a lap joint on top. If you want it done right......do it yourself?!?!? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted June 4, 2020 They have bean counters, that extra inch cost more $$$...Buyer beware! Yes, especially on a Aluminum pull behind. When you look for your next Rig, IMHO take a road trip to Sacramento or further up the Valley to look for one! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theoilchanger Report post Posted June 4, 2020 @manholt funny you should mention that...we bought this one sight-unseen from Hesperia, CA. Used U-Ship to get a bid on getting it up here and the fellow down there sent me a 20 minute video of every square inch of the Nomad. The world is our oyster! Here is the picture of the flashing going into place. Confirmed by reviewing video that only the lap sealant is between the aluminum and the galvanized. Will address. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
