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Hello Family,

We are joyous new-owners (one month) of a 1997 Discovery (Diesel) Class A RV with 41,000 miles, and we are new members of FMCA (one week). I am the third owner. The 1st owner took very good care of the RV. The second owner had it for one (1) year and only put one thousand (1,000) miles on it, so the coach is in mint condition. I wish I would have known about you guys before we got the RV...very very good information. Keep up the excellent work.

I ran a double pole 30 amp breaker to the RV...I know. Symptoms: 1. Light switch with indicator of shore power is connected is still lit 2. The latter light switch is the only switch that works in the whole RV 3. Batteries will not charge 4. When batteries were charged, the A/C would work only when the aux. battery switch was pressed, but only for about 2 mins. 5. When I realized what I did, I then swithched to 20 amp 120v, and reset the breakers under the frig, then the GFI breaker in the kitchen began to smoke Hmmm.

So...where do I start?

I am a DIY, and have some working knowledge (you would not think so after what I did, but when you are ignorant and don't read first...well). I view this as an expensive and painful way to get to know my RV; something great will come out of this, for it is through adversity that we flourish.

Sincerely,

Murray

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Murray,

It sounds like you may have more than one issue going on here since you mention anomalies in both AC and DC systems. At the least, the DC system is being adversely affected by AC system issues.

I have to be blunt; "...the GFI breaker in the kitchen began to smoke..." is a sign you need to get someone who understands RV electrical systems to look at your coach.

I also recommend you get a copy of the "RV Repair & Maintenance Manual". Especially as a DIY, over the years it will save you countless dollars. But in the interim, unless you know the details and procedures of RV electrical and LPG systems, you need to ask a professional for on scene help.

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OK, let's start with the outlet and verify that it is wired correctly.

It sounds like you ran a "regular" 4 wire 50 amp STYLE outlet but instead of 50 amp breakers, you used 30 amp breakers. Is that correct?

If so, what you are plugging your shore power cord into is a standard looking 50 amp outlet (3 straight lugs and one round one)-- correct? Or does it look like a 30 amp RV outlet (two diagonal straights and one round)?

Once we see how the outlet was wired, we may be able to tell you that it affected in your coach.

Brett

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Brett,

No to four (4) wires. It is a double-pole breaker with two hots and a ground, and a standard 30 amp RV outlet.

I have located three outlets in the coach, and two of them are still hot with 122.8v (I still have the shore power plugged to the correct confiquration of the single pole 30amp 120v), however, the one that "smoked" (nasty habit :rolleyes: ) only has about 9-12v from the front oulet, but 120v coming in, so it is a fried receptical.

Thanks.

Murray

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Brett,

I apologize. I meant to say one (1) hot, one (1) neutral, and one (1) ground, but I had it wired like two hots in the double-pole.

Murray

OK, let me recap:

It WAS (since corrected) wired with TWO hots and a ground (i.e. like an OLD house 220 VAC dryer), a ground and no neutral. VERY costly mistake.

It IS (once corrected) wired with ONE hot, one neutral and one ground (standard RV wiring).

If this is correct, it is probably that any 120 VAC appliance you ran in your coach wile wired the "220 VAC way" is destroyed. This would certainly include your converter, charger or inverter charger as most are wired to power as soon as you plug in. If so, that would account for 12 VDC stuff not working (batteries not being charged).

So, after verifying that you have the "once corrected" outlet and that polarity is correct (hot, neutral and ground hooked to the correct terminal of the outlet) you will need to systematically turn on all 120 VAC equipment to access the damage.

With a digital voltmeter (from under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc) check voltage at the batteries. Fully charged batteries (but with charger off is 12.7 VDC. 50% discharged is 12.2 VDC. Above 13 means the charger is working.

Let us know what you fine or if you need additional help.

Brett

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Brett,

You are great. I praying that the 120v appliances are not "destroyed" due to my ignorance. You are a great wealth of info.

I am charging the batteries, so I can run off the generator to check the other equipment, because the shore power is not powering the appliances.

Thank you very much.

Murray

And, before you do re-plug into that shore power outlet, please check that it has one hot, one neutral and one ground AND that they are wired properly.

Brett

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Brett,

I couldn't find the specs on Murray's coach, but what I did see would lead me to believe his coach has a 50 amp input. Of course, I've been led down the garden path before.

It IS (once corrected) wired with ONE hot, one neutral and one ground (standard RV wiring).

Does he have a 30 amp service?

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Brett,

I couldn't find the specs on Murray's coach, but what I did see would lead me to believe his coach has a 50 amp input. Of course, I've been led down the garden path before.

It IS (once corrected) wired with ONE hot, one neutral and one ground (standard RV wiring).

Does he have a 30 amp service?

No, if his coach is wired for 50 amp and his house wiring supplies two hots, a ground and a neutral, he can use a 50 amp RV outlet and connect it to the neutral, ground and each of the 30 amp supplied hots.

Here is what it would look like:

A hot to each of the outer straights.

The neutral to the center straight.

The ground to the center round.

This way he has 60 amps available-- sure it is less than the 100 from a "standard" RV 50 amp connection, but better than a single hot with 30 amps.

IF he only has three wires to that outlet, indeed, one hot, one neutral, one ground with a total of only 30 amps available.

Brett

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Murray, I repair RV's and have a business in Yuma AZ in the winter. I am goofing off right now and don't usually help this way but if you want to go to my website & then e-mail me we can walk through some of this as we both have time. Just use my user name here & add a dot com. Will get you running as much as I can from the other side of the US.

Rob Pierce

Sunbum RV LLC

sunbumrv.com

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There is several people who have replied that really knows the RV electrical. I am guessing by now this issue has been resolved. The one thing I noticed that no one mentioned that should be of benefit to a DIY is to know what wires connect to what terminals. Remember that oil used to be referred to as black gold. The black wire goes to the gold screw, the white wire goes to the silver screw, the green or bare wire goes to the green screw. On a standard polarized 15 / 20 amp receptile the gold screw will be on the small blade side. I believe Brett mentioned on a 50 amp RV plug / receptile, the two flat blades across from one another will be L1 & L2 and the red and black wires goes to them. The one flat blade below all by itself will be the neutral and the white goes to it, the round one is the ground and the green wires goes to it. Thanks to all who have shared and I hope this helps some one out there. Neal

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