Jump to content
Gary-Val

Refrigerator Warming

Recommended Posts

I have a 2001 Rexhall with a Dometic "New Dimensions" double door model refrigerator/freezer.

We've been on the road for 8 months now and have noticed a trend. When we are in cooler climates 70s and below everything is fine. However, when we get to warmer outdoor temps; 80 and up; the refrigerator seems to not function well. We actually have moisture in the freezer. I have increased the level 3 to 4 but it doesn't seem to do much. We're currently are at a park and plugged in.

Any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Certainly warmer ambient temperatures hurt refrigerator efficiency. Said another way, if there is a problem, it is more likely to show up in warmer ambient temperatures.

So, let's start by reviewing some of the items that negatively effect refrigerator efficiency:

1. Make sure freezer and refrigerator door gaskets are air tight. Do the "Dollar Bill" test: Close the door on a $1 (yes, a $100 bill works better-- after all it is an RV) all around the perimeter of each door. Insure that the resistance to pulling the bill out is uniform as you move around the gasket and reasonably difficult to pull the bill out.

2. Make sure the refrigerator condensate drain has the restrictor in the end. If it does not, warm humid outside air rises into the refrigerator adding heat and lots of moisture.

3. Check air flow in the back of the refrigerator to insure that there are no restrictions-- insect and animals seem to like to get in and nest in some of these spaces.

If those check out, let us know and we can "take it to the next level".

Brett

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice. After playing with it a bit I've found out that it works great on gas, it's just when it's running with electricity that it doesn't work as well. What now? At least we can leave it on gas and it'll get us home OK.

Gary

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Certainly warmer ambient temperatures hurt refrigerator efficiency. Said another way, if there is a problem, it is more likely to show up in warmer ambient temperatures.

So, let's start by reviewing some of the items that negatively effect refrigerator efficiency:

1. Make sure freezer and refrigerator door gaskets are air tight. Do the "Dollar Bill" test: Close the door on a $1 (yes, a $100 bill works better-- after all it is an RV) all around the perimeter of each door. Insure that the resistance to pulling the bill out is uniform as you move around the gasket and reasonably difficult to pull the bill out.

2. Make sure the refrigerator condensate drain has the restrictor in the end. If it does not, warm humid outside air rises into the refrigerator adding heat and lots of moisture.

3. Check air flow in the back of the refrigerator to insure that there are no restrictions-- insect and animals seem to like to get in and nest in some of these spaces.

If those check out, let us know and we can "take it to the next level".

Brett

After playing with it some I learned that it works great when on gas, it's just when plugged in it doesn't work well

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We had a very similar problem two years ago. Our refrigerator is on a large slide so it doesn't have a through the roof vent. The cooling air comes in the side, at the bottom and exits the side, a few feet higher up. Needless to say this is a terrible way to vent this type of refrigerator. The answer was to increase the air flow with two small fans which the manufacturer did. Our fans burned out and had to be replaced. Ours also worked well on gas but did poorly on 120v AC. The repair tech said that when on gas there was more heat which set up a better convection current which tended to cool the unit better. I don't really buy that 100% :rolleyes: but the new fans did the job.

Ward

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Gary-Val,

My assumption is the refer works on electric, just not very well. I also have the two door Dometic. I also experience, to a lesser amount than you, the same problem. What I did was raise the control (in the refrigerator part) to a considerably higher level. Moving the slider physically higher means a lower temp in the refrigerator part of the unit. I set the outside temperature selector at #4 (the next to highest setting). For more than a year, this has worked well. The slider should be on the last right hand cooling fin in the refrigerator part of the unit. The top of my slider is about 1/2" from the top of the cooling fin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The refrigerator is not as efficient on electricity as it is on gas. Lowering the setting is the best answer, but also make sure your coach is level. Inefficiencies running on electricity are magnified if the coach is not level

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In our Dutch Star the refer is in the slide so no roof vent. Newmar did add a fan as per Dometic requirements. I never noticed any difference in temps between propane and electric. I did notice when the unit quit and ruined the food inside!! I had the infamous ammonia leak so I ordered a new Amish built cooling unit that arrived last week. Now to install it!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...