wolfe10 Report post Posted August 5, 2012 Herman, Not sure that "voltage rise" is a valid test. If a battery starts out fully charged, even a small charge will drive voltage up to 15-16 VDC. In fact, that is EXACTLY how batteries are EQUALIZED! A small amp charge to a fully charged battery with voltage allowed to rise above normal charge voltage (i.e. Equalization) serves to de-sulfate the plates. Many of the higher end smart chargers have a built in program to allow equalization. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted August 5, 2012 Brett, You may not believe it from my pretty face but that was how we did it 1956 when I was a mechanic at Doc Widemans Garage in University Park, Texas. At that time Sun Electric was the Finest Test Equipment made at that time. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted August 6, 2012 That sounds like 1956 technology as well. I would not see that as a valid test of today's batteries. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenk0001 Report post Posted August 6, 2012 Well, I think its a possibility. I am going to pick up a hydrometer tomorrow and head back out to the farm. Herman, I think you may be on to something, and buy the way, you spelled sulfated correctly... lol, or at least right enough for my simple mind to follow what you were getting at! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenk0001 Report post Posted August 8, 2012 Well, I believe the light at the end of the tunnel has just gotten brighter. I pulled both coach batteries out. The salesman originally told me they were new. Then it became "they are less than a year old", that translate to reality-- the batteries are two years and a few months old. I had left them on an automatic trickle charger and had brought them up to fully charged, and then let the batteries stand for about 8 hours. Using a brand new hydrometer, I tested each cell and found ONE good cell. That was it. They still showed a charge when tested with a volt meter but, the hydrometer says they are bad. These batteries are from Auto Zone and they are actually a marine deep cell battery. I called and there isn't any prorated warranty because they said they were purchased in another state-- go figure! Anyway, I am checking into batteries now and expect to invest in two brand new ones. Anyone have any recommendations for new batteries at or under $200.00 dollars each? This still doesn't mean the electrical issue is resolved, but this is one piece of the puzzle that has to be fixed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted August 8, 2012 Some Coach owners are getting batteries from Wal-Mart or Sams. Club. The good thing is they would back them over a number of locations. I have been using Exide Golf Cart batteries for coach power and Chassis power. I have a supplier that gives me a good price. The big question is how much current capacity one needs or is willing to pay for and the type of cell you like. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted August 8, 2012 I am not sure of your setup and I doubt they would be less than $200, but if you want some batteries you don't have to think about and will last for many, many years to come I would suggest that you look at the Lifeline line of batteries. There is NO maintainence....Really, none! Mine are currently 9 1/2 years old and still going strong. If you will be keeping this coach for awhile they still might pay for themselves in the long run. Mine sure have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenk0001 Report post Posted August 8, 2012 I have the two 12 volt batteries currently. I am thinking about changing to four six volt and using Trojan batteries. I always had good luck with them in golf carts. Any ideas or thoughts? lol..yes, I am gleaning as much information as I can from a bunch of guys who know their stuff....! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted August 8, 2012 Ken, Yes, golf cart batteries wired in series or if 4 series/parallel are a common way to get quality deep cycle batteries for the house battery bank (vs chassis batteries). And Trojan T105 and T145's are a good choice. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenk0001 Report post Posted August 14, 2012 omg...this is a nightmare. A simple problem. NOPE. Sorry, this is the sound of frustration. I took all the batteries out. trickle charged them full. let them set AGAIN. I had one house battery show bad reading on charge level. I replaced it. Charge all three again. Hydrometer test all three again. all three read fine. I go to the control panel on the dash and check the battery level. It reads 1/2. Is it possible, that a defective disconnect switch could be causing all my problems? The disconnect registers a light on when I turn the Chassis battery on/off to on. It gives me a good reading of 13.8.... the other half of the disconnect switch (for the house batteries) has two positions, on/off and the ability to push it in to get a reading on the current level of battery charge stored. The light does not come on, and no reading is shown... Any thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted August 14, 2012 Ken, Suggest you use a digital voltmeter to check voltages. Start at the house batteries. Take readings at both sides the disconnect relay/mechanical switch. Next at the 12 VDC fuse box for house circuits. In other words, VERIFY whether you have a problem. Trust your voltage readings a lot more than those idiot battery status lights. Let us know what you find. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
