dickandlois Report post Posted June 7, 2016 Bruce, sounds like you had the electric turned on and no water in the tank ? There is the possibility that the electric heating element failed - do in part to overheating with no water in the tank. The second though is - there is frequently a temperature sensor and current reset control for the electric heating element that might have tripped. Do you have the owners manual for the water heater ? Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BruceN53 Report post Posted June 8, 2016 Yes, this is what it says under the "electric" operation: When the electric switch is turned on, the relay at the rear of the unit will close and pass 110vac to the element. If the thermostat were to fail, the ECO will open and lockout the system. To correct, check the thermostat to assure good contact with the tank and reset the control by turning the electric switch off, then on. I'm not sure that will help in this case. Maybe I need to change out the ECO and thermostat? Bruce Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BruceN53 Report post Posted June 8, 2016 ZOOM ATWOOD 91547 WATER HEATER FRONT MOUNT ECO THERMOSTAT KIT XT MODELS Atwood 91547 RV Water Heater Front Mount ECO Thermostat Kit for XT Models. Rich, I found this online for $17.97 Bruce Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted June 8, 2016 Bruce, It's never a bad idea to keep a kit handy even if the OEM parts check out and match the replacement parts resistance. You might be able to read the resistance or lack of resistance and compare it to the installed parts by probing the connection terminals through the vacuum pack - sometimes parts are packed in a way that makes that impossible. You might just check the the ECO and T stat with an ohm meter to see if they have continuity. Should read about zero in both cases - as they are temperature activated switches. From your wiring diagram - find the 120 volt connections that feed power to the electric heating element - what resistance do you read and post it for me. If you are familiar with Ohms Law. You can calculate the current draw and power required - if the heating element is good, the numbers should match the specifications for your unit. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted June 8, 2016 . Quote I thinking something happened that day when I tried to heat it without water in it, probably a safety device opened. I'm thinking that the electric element probably fried. Disconnect the 120 volt leads to the element, of course make sure electricity if off. Use an ohm meter to touch the two leads to the connection where the two electric leads were connected, check for resistance, should read pretty high resistance, if little to no resistance, the element probably needs replacing. Of course, set the volt ohm meter to read AC voltage with the hot water heater turned on to electric, and check for voltage to these connections before testing for resistance. Sorry Rich, I did not read your last post, I had started the reply and was called away for a honey do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mel148 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 Bruce I didn't my hot water was working just fine.I went to several seminars though and learned a lot about my Spartan chassis. Did you check the mini 2 amp fuse on the circuit board by the burner.On my coach the back of the hot water tank is accessed under the floor in the closet. Mine had a 110 volt inline connector If yours has that you might check you are getting voltage to and through that to the heating element. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mel148 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 Sorry Bruce I didn't see the previous replies .My next question was to check the element.On mine you have to pull the HW tank to be able to replace it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
