Larryatkinson Report post Posted February 20, 2013 How do you stay warm while traveling in colder weather? Especially the passenger side gets extremely cold. What could be the problem and how do you fix that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted February 20, 2013 Larry, Welcome to the Forum. First check for blockage and or restrictions on the passengers side of the heat vents. One of the thing the wife and I do is put up our curtain. We have a curtain that goes across the coach behind the driver and passenger. This helps to keep both the cool air and the heat from the dash unit stay up front and not trying to cool or heat the entire coach. In the summer heat we will turn on the gen set and the ACs shortly before we arrive at our destination for the night to start the cool down.Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pianodan Report post Posted February 20, 2013 I don't rely on the engine supplied heating system to stay warm in the winter. We've traveled in the below zero weather and stayed comfortable. We use the coach heating system, meaning the LP gas is on, the coach furnaces are running as well. The coach itself is winterized (our coach is an "older" model, this year, it turned 22 years old), on all the windows with the exception of the driver's window, windshield and passenger side window where the right side mirror is we used the "shrink" style plastic on the inside to make the double pane. It works real well. We also have insulated all the roof vents, put a blanket at the entry door to reduce drafts, and done everything possible to make it warm and cozy inside. Depending on the outside air temp, we've also resorted to running the generator and a plug in safe style electric heater (tip over and overload protection) and managed to travel through some pretty cold areas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rossboyer Report post Posted February 20, 2013 We use the dash heater, but close off the rear of the coach with the bathroom door. If the dash heat is not enough, we set the rear LPG furnace to 60 and the front furnace just high enough to maintain comfort. We have traveled in 10-11 degree temps with comfort this way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
charles10 Report post Posted February 23, 2013 Troubleshoot......... We found that while moving someway we pull air in through the fresh air vent in our heating unit. There is a heat vent in the floor between driver and navigator and air was really entering the coach. I cut a piece of foam, covered it, and stuck it into the outside vent area. BE SURE TO TAKE IT OUT WHEN YOU STOP AND TURN ON CENTRAL UNIT1! You cannot use your central heat while this is going on, dash only. We were so cold with this vent open, it is worth the effort to use the blocker, also we have the curtain behind the cockpit which is very effective. It took us many miles of troubleshooting to find this leak, did find other areas under the "hood" that was letting in air, insulated them also.. So many wires in large holes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted February 23, 2013 Charles, I am a bit concerned by your observation/advice. A propane furnace does NOT take in outside air. The inside air is recirculated (after being heated in the furnace) and the air for combustion enters the furnace ONLY from the outside and then is exhausted only to the outside. So, if you are getting a lot of cold air from your furnace vent(s) you need to have your furnace checked. Now, if you are talking about the dash HVAC system, indeed, it can take in cold air (and lots of it) from the outside. Blocking off the dash HVAC air intake may be warranted in extremely cold conditions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted February 25, 2013 I just have one suggestion for those with propane furnaces...Aqua Hot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted February 25, 2013 A40X, Have to agree that if your coach has AquaHot you have a good system. I premise that with if the system is properly maintained. When working they are great. When not they are a pain in the rear end. Spent a lot of time on my unit, pressure tested the unit found no leaks, drained the unit ( tested the coolant and found it needed to be changed). Refilled the system (16 Gallons of 50/50 coolant). When I pressure tested the system I also checked the Cap. It would not hold pressure and when the unit got hot it would blow out enough coolant to trip the low coolant switch and unit would not run. New Cap and the uint works great. Got an extra cap in the coach now. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted March 1, 2013 Thanks, Herman, think I go find a cap! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
medico Report post Posted March 1, 2013 I have to agree. AquaHot runs either off the electric if you are plugged in or the diesel if not plugged in. I would think that running the generator will provide the electric to heat with AquaHot on the road, but since the generator also uses diesel, I would think just running the AquaHot from diesel would be more efficient and put less wear on the generator. These are just observations from a very new DP owner, but seem to make sense. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted March 1, 2013 Thanks, Herman, think I go find a cap! 40X, If I remember correctly mine was a standard Radiator Cap 13 PSI. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted March 1, 2013 I have to agree. AquaHot runs either off the electric if you are plugged in or the diesel if not plugged in. I would think that running the generator will provide the electric to heat with AquaHot on the road, but since the generator also uses diesel, I would think just running the AquaHot from diesel would be more efficient and put less wear on the generator. These are just observations from a very new DP owner, but seem to make sense. If on the road, the AH runs off the engine, so you are not using electric or diesel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted March 2, 2013 40X The AH also heats the water as you drive. We have never run out of Hot Water yet. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pianodan Report post Posted March 4, 2013 Also, if using the dash heating/cooling system, when placed on Max or Recirc (whichever your controls have), that closes the fresh air intake and recircs the air from inside the coach, whether you're heating or cooling. I also agree with the one that said to search and find all those bulkhead penetrations and seal them up. It seems the mfg. aren't too concerned with them since we RV'ers only travel in perfect weather, and are never in the cold, especially....NOT! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rgturner Report post Posted March 5, 2013 I plumbed a 35000btu bus heater in series with dash heat. Effective to -25 or more. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xctraveler Report post Posted March 5, 2013 Larry, It would be a big help to those of us who want to help to know what coach you are having the problem with, mfg, year, chassis and any other identifying information. Someone may have a coach very much like yours and have experiance the same problem and know how to fix your specific problem. If was really nice to have the suggestion of aquahot, but it is way off topic because I do not believe it is reasonable to install it in an existing coach, or even possible, so it is hardly a fix for your problem. Many of us run with the house furnace on in cold weather, the dash heat cannot heat the entire coach on a 30 degree day (or colder). Real damage can be done by freeze ups if the furnace is not kept running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
