Wiring Diagrams and Loss of DC Power - What I Learned

[thrushl]

Hello dear friends.

This is something I learned this week that many of you probably already know. However, on the chance that it helps one person, here it is ...

Like most diesel pushers, I have a high-amperage DC panel in the rear of the coach and a DC fuse box in the front. There are FOUR heavy-gauge wires that supply the DC Fuse box from the DC in the rear.

During troubleshooting to see why I had no DC power to two on the fuse panels in the front DC Fuse box, I found that TWO of the feeds from the rear came from the coach batteries/electrical system and the other TWO feeds come from the high -amperage distribution of the HOUSE DC power system. Surprise, Surprise, Surprise. That is NOT what the wiring diagram for my 2005 Holiday Rambler Navigator shows. Go figure. They built it different than the diagram? Clearly these power cables were installed when the coach was built. I called Monaco and was going through what I found. They had the same wiring schematics I had, but stated that they were not surprised about the difference. Ummmmmm???

The PROBLEM causing the loss of DC Power to many things including the coach door locks, turn signals, leveling system, etc. was two corroded cable connectors in the rear panel. I DON'T have any idea how they got corroded, after all I have never cleaned them over the past 12 years .. A little wire brush action and electrical cleaner, and I had power again.

So the moral of the story: my coach is NOT wired like the wiring diagram says, and connectors need to be clean (at least once every 12 years or less ).

With best wishes for all,

Leo

[desertdeals69]

If the area is subject to corrosion I would use DC 4 compound.

[dickandlois]

Leo, Thanks for the feedback and information.

Happy and safe travels!!

Rich.

[thrushl]

If the area is subject to corrosion I would use DC 4 compound.

Brilliant!!!

Now THAT is a great suggestion. I have used DC 4 on the airplane, BUT never thought of using on those connections. I'm going to the hanger tomorrow and will bring some back.

Bravo and THANKs.....

Leo

[bjeff]

Thanks for the info Leo.

I am having a similar problem with no DC to the main fuse panel in the bedroom of my 1998 Monaco Dynasty. After tapping on a few relays in the rear main DC panel, I thought I heard a relay click in the drivers side front DC panel outside the coach. Sure enough, the lights came on inside. I then turned the DC switch at the stairway off and back on and lost DC power again. After tapping in the back again the lights came back on.

My question to you, Leo, is was the corrosion you cleaned off visible? And did you hear any relays operate after cleaning the terminals.

Thanks for anyone's help.

I'm a new member and think the forums are great.

B.J.

[thrushl]

Thanks for the info Leo.

I am having a similar problem with no DC to the main fuse panel in the bedroom of my 1998 Monaco Dynasty. After tapping on a few relays in the rear main DC panel, I thought I heard a relay click in the drivers side front DC panel outside the coach. Sure enough, the lights came on inside. I then turned the DC switch at the stairway off and back on and lost DC power again. After tapping in the back again the lights came back on.

My question to you, Leo, is was the corrosion you cleaned off visible? And did you hear any relays operate after cleaning the terminals.

Thanks for anyone's help.

I'm a new member and think the forums are great.

B.J.

Welcome to the group. Glad you got it figured out.

Actually, the copper didn't look all green like a dirty battery terminal. It was just dull. Yes on the relay and lights.

I got some DC4 from the hanger and put it on the exposed connections at the main points. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that before. We use it all the time on the airplane for the same thing. You can get if off amazon if you want some. Not to bad a price.

Cheers

[RT4130]

 Can you describe which terminals your referring to?  The big red ones coming into the bottom of the run box?

Also did you turn the chassis main off before taking those connect apart for cleaning?

Thanks

RT

[richard5933]

While you're in there cleaning contacts and checking on things, don't forget the ground connections and cables. Not sure specifically how many or where yours are, but you've got them. If your hot leads have corrosion then odds are so do your ground connections. On bus conversions they are one of the leading causes of electrical problems of all sorts.

I've got ground straps/cables going from engine to chassis, from battery to chassis, from generator to chassis, and a few others I can't remember right now. Whenever I'm near them I give them a good test pull and look for any signs of corrosion or scale (the stuff that just looks dull and not like corrosion but still creates a problem.) Also check any ground straps exposed to the weather or road debris for physical condition along the full length of the conductor. A friend had one that looked great on the ends but when he pulled slightly in the middle it just broke in two. Road salt had gotten to the cable through a crack in the covering and rotted out the copper from the inside. Gave him a long-standing intermittent problem until he found it. Go figure.

Takes just a few minutes to get these cleaned up and save headaches down the road.