'05 Safari Cheetah (Monaco) Mirrors

[Homesteader]

Good day,

My mirror mounts are coming loose from the body. I may be wrong but I thought if I took the bolt out that holds the arm to the mount, that the chrome shell would slide off the mount and expose the screws that actually hold the mount to the body. I realize there will be wiring involved for the power mirror head and also the turn signal. I removed the 7/16x 4 bolt and the arm is still tight. I am thinking it could be just road grime and time itself that seems to have the arm tight to the mount, but before I started applying too much pressure to separate the arm from the mount and wreck something, I thought I would ask to see if anybody has had a mirror replaced or tightened up that could explain what I might be doing wrong, or if my thoughts of how it comes apart are incorrect.

Maybe I just need a Bigger Hammer

Garry

[dickandlois]

Garry, This is the information on your mirrors. You many need to contact Valvac regarding the proper repair kit if needed. Contact is via email.

This info. should cover your mirrors, there should be a gasket behind the mirror bracket that keeps things sealed up. How that seal is applied and the type of material information many need to come from them.

Model 2030 Mirror

Part #715286-4 $923.68

Passenger Side - Chrome, Deluxe Mirror Head with Heated/Remote Controlled Flat Glass and Heated/Manual Convex Glass, 9" radius base, 14" Arm with Turn Signal

Part #715285-4 $923.68
Driver Side - Chrome, Deluxe Mirror Head with Heated/Remote Controlled Flat Glass and Heated/Manual Convex Glass, 9" radius base, 14" Arm with Turn Signal

Both mirrors look to be the same, but the base kits will be different for the Left and Right sides

Rich.

Service Parts: Part Name/Description Part # List Price Mirror Head: Chrome Deluxe Head with Heated/Remote Control Adjustable Flat Glass and Heated/Manually Adjustable Convex Glass (Right/Passenger Side) 714608 $364.73

Flat Glass Kit: Heated Flat Glass (8" x 8") and Retaining Clip for Attaching Glass to Housing
NOTE: Glass includes integrated heating grid for both heated and non-heated applications. 709448 $35.50

Convex Glass Kit: Heated Convex Glass (8" x 4" with 12.5" ROC) and Retaining Clip for Attaching Glass to Housing
NOTES: A convex repair kit is available if damage to the convex part of the mirror is more extensive than just glass breakage (see Part No. 709589 below). Glass includes integrated heating grid for both heated and non-heated applications. 709449 $36.35

Inner Support Plate and Pivot Clamp 709418-7 $66.63

Pivot Clamp (Half Moon) 709424-7 $4.60

Convex Repair Kit: Includes Heated Convex Glass (8" x 4"), Retaining Clip, Inner Housing and Actuator (Pivoting Mechanism) 709589 $70.73

Top Hat Add-On Convex Mirror - Chrome 715374 $97.48

Heated/Remote Switch Kit with Mounting Plate 747198 $114.13

Turn Signal Light (for Mirror Arm) 747551 $19.00

Set Screw Caps (3/Pkg.) and Mounting Screw Caps (4/Pkg.) - Chrome 748346 $15.20.

[Homesteader]

Thanks for the reply Rich, I had found what info you sent me, but what I am needing is how to properly disassemble the arm from the mount, as the arm as to come off to remove the chrome plastic shell (covering mount) to expose the screws that hold the mirror to the MH. These screws are backing out and would like to tighten them up. The whole mirror assembly is fine, just coming loose from the body of the MH.

Thanks, Garry

[dickandlois]

Garry, Try this link, and see if it helps answer your question.

http://www.velvac.com/sites/default/files/resource-files/sb103_-_removal_and_replacement_of_2030_components.pdf

Rich.

[Homesteader]

Thanks Rich. it says in the service bulletin to turn the mount 90 degrees to allow a tab to fall out of a groove that keeps the arm in the mount. that would be fine with a mirror assembly coming out of a box on the counter, but pretty difficult when it is mounted on the MH. LOL, I wasn't planning on laying it over just yet.

[racer478r]

On each corner of your base there is a chrome or black insert covering the screw heads. Just be gentle when prying them up as they are plastic. Tighten as required and insert tabs to cover

[Homesteader]

Hi racer, No caps or screws on the outside of these mirrors. A form fit chrome plastic shell covers the whole mount. If the screws were exposed I wouldn't require all the disassembly to tighten them. I see some styles have the bolts or screws exposed and then covered with individual caps as you explained.

Thanks, Garry

[kaypsmith]

Are the screw heads covered, or is your base appear to be solid chrome? If the link that Rich sent you is correct, should be a simple task. If the base appears to be solid chrome, let me know. I have the same Velvac mirrors, but the base is solid looking. If it is like mine, I will send you pictures and instructions for getting to the screws.

Good luck,

Kay

[kaypsmith]

Sorry, I was taking pictures when you sent your last post. The bottom, under the arm at the base, you probably have already removed that cover, and taken off that nut, or bolt as yours might be. Simply use a good corrosive buster, WD40 will do, it just takes more of it. Squirt it generously into the crevice at the bottom of the arm, and with a straw on your pressurized can of buster, squirt up and into the same hole that the bolt came out of. Let this sit for a while, and then gently move the arm right and left. There is the heater and adjusting wires up and inside this area, but wd40 and most penetrates will not hurt these, just look for any cautions on the can that might advise otherwise. When the movement begins, squirt more penetrant into the crevice as mentioned before. The arm will lift right up and off, careful not to damage wires. There should be about inches of slack in the wires, with a molex connector that will separate. The chrome cover pulls straight off to reveal the for screws that you are looking for. If you need the pictures, I will gladly e-mail them to you, but the advice above is pretty straight forward. Remember penetrate and lots of it will not hurt anything except our feelings while cleaning up the mess. WD40 is nothing except diesel fuel with a propellant, the newer stuff does not even contain propane to propel as the old school version did.

Good luck, Kay

(PS) I didn't see a place to attach the pictures to this post, or they would be here.

[Homesteader]

Thanks Kay, That is what I was planning tomorrow. I pretty well had it figured out and like I mentioned, was only concerned about wrecking something but thought road grime and time might be my culprit. I will let you know how I make out. I see on the drivers side that these are actually screws and not bolts that hold the base on. Would you think that it would be wise to use some type of loc tite product or is there anything recommended or even possible to work with the screws going into fiberglass that would prevent this from happening in the future?

Garry

[kaypsmith]

Loctight is good, but could be a detriment if removal is necessary, we use fingernail polish, as it is lacquer and will crack when turned, nail polish remover will take off the remnants.

I would add star washers if they are not already there and the nail polish. Lowes and most other supply places carry them is the specialty items on the same aisle as the screws and bolts.

LOL, Kay

(PS) thought I had the attachment figured out, but must not have.

[kaypsmith]

Just one more thought, I surely hope that there is metal behind that fiberglass, but if only wood, remove the screws one at a time, and put lots of silicone in the screw holes.

Maybe I will quit thinking, but I hope all works well.

Kay

[Homesteader]

I am thinking probably wood embedded in the fiberglass. I agree a metal plate would be preferred but I don't think so with what look to be wood screws by what thread I can see between the base and wall of MH. Thanks for the nail polish tip, I would never thought of that. I will let you know I make out.

Thanks again, Garry

[johnp8n]

Homesteader, the road side mirror was knocked of my 04 Cheetah and the 1/4" lag screws striped out the holes in the fiberglass. I purchased 4 1/4" X 20 screws, nuts, lock washers and fender washers, drilled out the holes to 1/4" and mounted the new mirror. I was able to access the back side by pulling out the generator and removing some of that foam stuff behind the mirror base. I have the as built drawings for the mirror on my coach from Vel-Vac and will email the to you if needed.

John --- jep8n@bellsouth.net

[Homesteader]

Thanks John,

It sounds like you mounted yours the way they should have been when the coach was built. I would feel a lot better doing the same as you have done.

If you wouldn't mind sending me the drawings, I would sure appreciate it.

Thanks again for your input,

Garry

[johnp8n]

Gary,

I received your email and I tried to respond by my 2 email accounts and got this reply "Hi. This is the qmail-send program at yahoo.com.
I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following addresses.

This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out." Call me at 321 267 0066 and I will hard copy mail drawings to you.

John Pridgen

[Homesteader]

Thanks for trying John. Not sure what the issue with the email as I received emails all day. I will call if I have any problem but have to hit the road Friday, so I am going to repair as you did. That will be a proper fix. My thoughts anyway.

Thanks again, Garry