huffypuff Report post Posted October 20, 2013 I'm getting my trusty 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD set up to be a toad. Since I been using a trailer 4 wheels off the ground I want to touch base here so I don't miss anything for 4 wheel down is new to me. The following Items I snagged for the project: 1 Roadmaster Eagle 8000 tow bar complete with base plates for chevy pickup for $200. I sold the base plates for $200 on Craigslist but not able to find used for my vehicle so $399 new from e-trailer. Also a new set of RoadMaster 68" Single Hook, Coiled Safety Cables - 6,000 lbs $46 from e-trailer. So complete tow bar set up $445. 2 Roadmaster Even Brake used only twice $200 plus I have 2nd vehicle kit on the way for $150 from e-trailer and still save $900. They had their toad wired with the transmitter but not the breakaway. Scary! 3 I picked up a pair of magnetic tow lights from Camping World for $35. I'm thinking that it makes it simple since two vehicles electrical systems won't get mixed up. I think the two issues are feedback and turn signals and brake light issues. I also won't have to install the brake light relay kit that comes with the 2nd vehicle kit. That's what I have so far is there anything I missed that I should know? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted October 20, 2013 Ray, You might want to connect a 12 volt charging wire / circuit to the toad battery. Back feed relay and a diode to isolate the coach and toad 12 volt systems. The other item you should check into. I have a strong feeling that you 06 model year coach already comes with the extra fuse / relay box. Might be worth looking into. The one they hide in the rear area of the coaches. Should your coach have this item it gives you some convenient options. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted October 20, 2013 You didn't say whether Jeep Liberty is automatic or straight shift. If automatic, be sure to check the owners manual for towing 4 wheels down. Kay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
medico Report post Posted October 20, 2013 I would check on the Roadmaster wiring kit and a 7 wire to 4 wire Flexicoil from Roadmaster. Here is my towing system. 2012 Jeep Liberty with RM EZ baseplate. RM Stowmaster tow bar RM wiring kit RM Flexicoil RM Brakemaster proportional braking system. With the wiring kit with diodes, you can easily use the existing lights on the Jeep. Automatic, put the transfer case into Neutral, transmission into Park and key removed (not sure if 2006 Liberty has the steering lock or not). With an automatic and transfer case, the transmission is left in Park. In this manner miles do not add up on Jeep. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted October 21, 2013 Ray, You might want to connect a 12 volt charging wire / circuit to the toad battery. Back feed relay and a diode to isolate the coach and toad 12 volt systems. The other item you should check into. I have a strong feeling that you 06 model year coach already comes with the extra fuse / relay box. Might be worth looking into. The one they hide in the rear area of the coaches. Should your coach have this item it gives you some convenient options. Rich. Thank you Rich, I thought about a hack I can do to a seven pin connector so 4 pin comes out for the lights and 2 pin comes out as ground and 12 volts. I hate to start engine at every rest stop and try to remember to pump vacuum out of brake booster before going again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted October 21, 2013 The Jeep is and automatic with full time transfer case. I need need to put it in park and transfer case in neutral. I think there in a steering lock but think I disabled it when I cut the cable to the shifter interlock. If not a dummy key one click forward will unlock it with no power on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted October 26, 2013 OK I spent 1/2 day today installing the tow brackets. Had to remove bumper, grill, sway bar and links and drill six 17/32 holes. The bumper had to be trimmed to put it back on. Tomorrow I will install the vehicle brake monitor kit and breakaway for the even brake. If I have time I will see what I can come up with for charge wire and lights connection. I'm going to need another 12v power outlet in the motorhome. Found out steering lock still works so I need a dummy key made. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted October 27, 2013 Got the electrical done for the even brake and battery charge and lights. Made custom 7-4-2 pin plug. Even brake automatic self test passed to ready state. Getting close to test pull. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted October 28, 2013 I did the test tow today for about 100 miles of mixed driving. All went well until it came time to unhook. I pushed the release pins on the tow bar and one would release and the other was stuck. I tried rocking the toad, putting park brake on and off and it still wouldn't release. Finally I used a claw hammer to pull the pins from the bracket. I thought unhooking was supposed to be easy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhartjim Report post Posted October 28, 2013 I pushed the release pins on the tow bar and one would release and the other was stuck. I tried rocking the toad, putting park brake on and off and it still wouldn't release. Finally I used a claw hammer to pull the pins from the bracket. I thought unhooking was supposed to be easy. Welcome to the trials and tribulations of four down towing. If there is any tension on the tow bar "arm (s)", the lever will not release or at least not easily. Do not force it. Usually it will only be one arm thats in a bind. I carry a hammer and a punch small enough to drive the pin out...trick is not getting the punch wedged! As a word of caution, make sure the toad is in park and/or the emergency brake is set. It's times like that that I wish for my tow dolly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted October 28, 2013 Thanks Jim, Looks like I be keeping a claw hammer and punch on board of the coach. Glad to hear I wasn't just the only one and gave test run. I was home when I unhooked so claw hammer was in the garage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walt2137 Report post Posted October 28, 2013 Ray its according the tow bar you have both Blue Ox and Roadmaster have all Terrain tow bars that makes it easier to unlock when the bar is in a bind, I now run the Falcon all terrain bar and it can be a little hard at times when the bar is in a bind but not like the old style that could be a real pain to unlock if it was in any kind of a bind. Just get your co pilot to rock the car back and forth EASY when it gets super hard to unlock. Walt F191141 2000 Dyn 2013 f150 4X4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted October 28, 2013 Hi Ray, My 2 cents worth. For 5 years I had a Demco and used a hammer and screw driver to punch the pin out. After reading some information, and now I have a Blue Ox tow bar, i found out that just turning the steering wheel in one direction or the other will 99% of the time take the pressure off the hard to release pin. I still carry the hammer and screw driver for the just in case times. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted October 29, 2013 You know now that I think about it, it does seen like it's in a twist more than forward or backwards. I have to try turning the steering wheel next time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
