tborstad Report post Posted May 22, 2015 We purchased a used Demco Kar Kaddy with Surge brakes. Based upon the age of the tires (which I've replaced) I think the tow dolly is about 9 years old. It has grease zirks on each side. We plan to tow our 2003 Chrysler Sebring convertible this summer behind our 31' 1999 National Seaview. We've completed a couple short practice tows and everything "seems" to be okay. So, before I head out for several weeks I would appreciate advice from experienced RVers. How do you deal with various back-in campsites? How do you tell if the gas station you're trying to use is big enough to avoid getting dead-ended? How do you identify (in advance) other situations to avoid? If you're familiar with Kar Kaddy are there issues we should watch for? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhartjim Report post Posted May 22, 2015 I used a Kar Kaddy for several thousand miles. You cannot back up with the KK hooked to the motorhome for multiple reasons. As far as getting dead ended, I always plan my exit route early. Like any tow dolly, check the strap after the first 3-5 miles and re-tighten. They will loosen some and always check at each stop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted May 22, 2015 The surge brakes may give you a problem if you are on mountain hills. The problem is when going down steep hills the brakes are always on and they overheat and destroy themselves. My solution was to remove the surge coupler and install a fixed coupler and install a air over hydraulic master cylinder. Now the air brakes, through the proportional valve, applies the appropriate amount of braking for the dolly. I have been using this system for several years. I don't know if you have air brakes on your m/h, if you don't electric brakes would be the answer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted May 23, 2015 Welcome to the forum. I towed with a dolly for a couple of years. Some things to watch for, the dolly will track outside your rear wheels so leave a little extra room when making a turn. You don't want to drag the dolly over a curb or through a ditch, or worse hit a poll or other objects as you turn. Leave more room between you and the gas pumps to. You may have to adjust your position in your lane as the tow dolly wheals may be running on the white line or over it. Some roads have a rumble strip and you don't want to be dragging your dolly wheal over that for any distance. The trick to getting the straps tight the first time is don't pull the car tight agents the front stop when you load. The straps don't slide on the tier when you tighten them. After you have the straps around the tier and ready to tighten take the car out of park. Now tighten the straps. This allows the tier to roll forward and tighten the strap behind the tier. When done follow the tow dolly manufacture instructions on setting your car up to tow. You have to unload the car and disconnect the dolly before backing into a back in site. I always tried to get a pull through as I could just leave the dolly attached. This helps a lot when just overnighting in a place, much easier to get going in the morning. "How do you tell if the gas station you're trying to use is big enough to avoid getting dead-ended?" Start looking at gas stations now when you are driving your car around. Practice looking for clearance issues low canopy's how the pump islands are laid out, Do you have deep curbs steep driveway or other things that might cause a problem. Will it be easy to exit back to the road you want to be on. I always try to use an out side island. One big thing don't wait till you NEED gas before you start looking for a station. I start at 1/2 tank this gives you options. "How do you identify (in advance) other situations to avoid?" Practice when you are driving your car. Think like you are driving your coach with a dolly hooked behind it and you can't back up. I never had a problem with my surge brakes driving in the mountains. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tborstad Report post Posted May 24, 2015 Thanks for the tips. Our MH is gas with regular brakes so we'll have to watch carefully going down hills. We live in Colorado so I expect some mountain driving is in our future. I assume (and hope) that I'll get more comfortable with practice. I bought magnetic lights for the toad, but some of the reviews said they blow off. Any of you have that issue? Also, do you tape the connecting wire to the body of the toad? Or is there a better, more efficient way to route the wire? Ted Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhartjim Report post Posted May 24, 2015 I used magnetic lights for approx. 15,000 miles and never had any issues with them. I ran the wiring under the hood, opened the car doors and ran the wire inside the car to the trunk area. I also towed in the mountains with no noticeable surge brake issues. As far as the dolly tracking that Bill eluded to, with the Kar Kaddy wheels that steer, the dolly tracks the motorhome and will not cut corners. I can't impress too strongly, check the straps often and always within a few miles after the start of the initial trip. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted May 24, 2015 I have never used aux lights. Have always used the stock lights with blocking diodes. Be doing that in our rv shop for 40 years and on my own toads for all those years and 400k miles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gulya Report post Posted May 26, 2015 Towed on dolly for 14 years now. I use magnetic lights for night towing, I think they provide better visibility, never had them blow off. I run the wire like elkhartjim under hood and inside doors. Never had surge brakes or electric, with the workhorse chasis I always took it out of overdrive before grade, with the new ford v10 I use tow/haul. I have towed pt cruisers, ford taurus, and jeeps on dolly on 7 - 10% grades. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
