dmastroluca Report post Posted September 14, 2015 Looks like Cadillac wants us to pull 3 fuses on our SRX to tow flat. I really don't want the hassle of crawling under the dash and pulling and inserting fuses at every camping spot. Not only a PITA, but the wear and tear on the fuse terminals has me concerned. I am looking for a terminal type device that will plug into the fuse panel, and then it is hooked to a 3 pole switch that I can mount on the dash. Then I could "pull" all three fuses with one click. I will make it myself if I have to, but I can't find any kind if terminal plug that will fit the SRX fuse block. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted September 14, 2015 Can you use crimp on male spade connectors? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 14, 2015 Another option is to go from the hot side of the fuse holder socket to a remote fuse and switch and back to the other side of the fuse holder socket. There are some of these that come as a pre-made kit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
evolvingpowercat Report post Posted September 14, 2015 Updated: I looked at the photo of the product again and it looks like they might not work if you tried to use them on both sides of a "mini" fuse, so this suggestion may not work if your vehicle uses the newer very small fuses. But if it uses the regular size "ATO" fuses then it should work. Possible solution: 1. Use the fuse extenders shown in the link to extend both side of the fuse position to wires, replacing the fuse in the fuse box with a small amp rating blown fuse, less than 5 amp (so you don't confuse it with a "real" fuse). 2. Put an in-line fuse holder in line with one of the wires, using the same size fuse as was in the fuse box. 3. Wire a switch in series with one of the wires, making sure its rated for the Amps of the circuit aka the amps the fuse blows at. 4. Be sure to use the wire size that can handle the current the fuse is rated for. Suggest you make sure to put the switches in a place you can't accidentally operate them while driving the car. The advantage of these fuse extenders is you can remove the modification and put it back to OEM someday if you ever need to. =+-------- new fuse -------- switch | XPST open fuse | | | =+----------------------------/ If you find switches that can handle the amps with more than 1 pole, then you can use less switches. If you do it this way you won't need double pole switches. here is the link to the extenders, you can likely get them at many auto parts stores, too: http://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-30800-Fuse-Mini-Fuses/dp/B000CQDRTI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted September 14, 2015 I don't believe that fuse extender will work. The fuse tapper will work. As Brett suggested, an inline fuse holder, fuse tapper or spade clip crimped onto the end of a wire plugged into the hot side of the current fuse holder, then the other end of that same wire attached to a single throw switch, "can be a 3 pole single throw", another wire from the switch to the inline fuse holder, then back to the other side of the fuse holder. This of course will be times three, since there are three fuses to be removed. Make sure the wire extenders are of the correct amperage, and the 3 pole single throw switch is sufficient for the highest amperage fuse. Just google automotive fuse extenders. Hope you can find the premade kit, it will be simpler. It really does not matter which side of the switch the fuse holder is attached, since all you are doing is opening the circuits. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dmastroluca Report post Posted September 15, 2015 Thanks for the ideas guys. I could find nothing pre made, so I will rig something up. I am surprised. You would think Blue Ox or Roadmaster would make something like this and charge $50 for $2.50 worth of components . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted September 16, 2015 One problem with pulling fuses, you might dump the memory in your radio and any other electrical settings you might have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 16, 2015 When I got my Jeep Wrangler Sport, it had 16" rims with General A/T tires (they are a joke) and by law the rims was fitted with APM's. I changed to 18" rims with Nitto Trail tires and the yellow tire light on dash came on. I pulled the fuse and lost the light, radio and R/L turn signals! Fuse is in and so is light. I can see having TPM's on cars, but on a Jeep 4x4 is plain stupid! It's an off road vehicle and as such, I let air out constantly depending on the terrain for traction. I'll never sell the Jeep, because then I would have to put the 16" back on and with a 3" lift, HD off road shocks and springs, it would look a little funny! Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walt2137 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 When we towed a 2010 Equinox I made my on fuse bypass by using a old blown fuse, broke the plastic off, soldered a wire to each leg and a inline fuse ran to a off and on switch. But I don't think I would want 3 switches under the dash. Got to be a better way.Walt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 If you always disconnect/connect the three at the same time, wire from one hot to switch and have the switch close a relay that supplies all three. Yes, fuse in both supply to switch and to relay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites