barneyrubble Report post Posted April 19, 2016 Any one know of an experienced Country Coach alignment shop in Raleigh NC or western NC?\ Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 19, 2016 barneyrubble, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, do you have both RIDE HEIGHT and ALIGNMENT SPECS? Particularly if you have a tag axle, to you have individual wheel weights (better) or at least axle weights? Armed with this information on your coach, many HD truck alignment shops can help. Hopefully, someone in your area will have first hand information on a shop to recommend. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barneyrubble Report post Posted April 19, 2016 I'm not able to get 4 corner weights but this is from a recent Cat Scale: Front-14,900Drive-18,920Tag-8,540Total-42,360 Trying to get Ride Height and Alignment specs from Oregon Motor Coach right now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 19, 2016 And, what are your GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Ratings)? They will be listed on your GVWR plaque. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barneyrubble Report post Posted April 19, 2016 My axle GAWR are: Steer 17,500 Drive 20,000 Tag 11,000 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 19, 2016 Ideally, you would like close to the same percent of GAWR on each axle. Currently, your are loaded to: Steer: 85% Drive: 95% Tag: 78% So, if your tag is easily adjustable (some are, some are not), increase PSI/weight on the tag, which will lighten the drive and add weight to the front axle. And, adjusting ride height will affect this as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barneyrubble Report post Posted April 20, 2016 I agree that the drive axle is a bit heavy and the tag light. That's one of the reasons for asking about recommendations for alignment shops in or around Raleigh. A shop that doesn't say Country what like I've run into. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 20, 2016 I am sure you have already thought of this, but move your heavy personal gear toward the front of the basement. Light stuff toward the rear. And, nothing that you can move behind the rear axle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barneyrubble Report post Posted April 23, 2016 Does anybody with a 2002 Magna or Affinity have the alignment specs. Going to an alignment shop on Monday. Thanks, John Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted April 23, 2016 Unless I have missed something and I have watched your thread develop, almost don't want to weigh in but!! Why do you think that you need an alignment? Your weights seem to be OK. All within tolerance. Tires wearing ok? You have not mentioned steering pulling to one side. Poor handling. Sometimes driver perception, expecting a large vehicle to handle like a car. Just curious? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barneyrubble Report post Posted April 23, 2016 This all started with a very ill handling coach. We bought it from a very reputable dealer in Junction City where he and Oregon Motorcoach worked though various issues. None were related to steering except new adjustable Koni' were installed on the front. The coach has all brand new Toyo tires but we discovered later after leaving Junction City that the tire pressures were set too high. It rode like a brick and it was all over the road especially in wind. We now have the tire pressures at spec according to weights and its a lot better. It does not pull left or right. Being somewhat new at driving a 42' motorhome I think some of my early problems were being inexperienced and too much tire pressure. however I still think something isn't right. I have about 3" play in the steering wheel which could translate to two feet left or right in the lane. I drove it from Junction City OR to Raleigh NC and I'm pretty used to it by now. Its not just me. On Monday, I will be taking it to an alignment and truck repair shop where we will check alignment and check the suspension for anything loose or not torqued properly. The Dynomax chassis is capable of a smooth pleasant ride and I'm just trying all options to get it there. Next week, we are off to Estes Park Colorado for a couple of weeks so I'm trying to get it to behave a little better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted April 24, 2016 Tire pressures will definitely make it wander and provide a harsh ride when too much air for the weight is in them. I would have it checked, if no problems are observed (i.e. loose steering components or out of spec alignment) I would head into the aftermarket products for help. Have you considered adding something like this? I have installed one of these on a Dynamax Super C a few years ago, impressive device http://www.safe-t-plus.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted April 26, 2016 If your chassis is equipped a Sheppard M100 steering gear that is probably the source of your poor handling. The discussion occurred on 15 October 2014. The M100 can be replaced by a specific TRW gear. Apparently the Unadjustable sheppard gear starts out new with up to an 1 1/2 inches of center play. Probably gets worse as the unit ages. Could be your problem. Do some research. Maybe a member with knowledge of the gear problem will weigh in. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 26, 2016 If the play is in the Sheppard steering box, there is a company in Washington state that blue-prints them to remove play: http://www.steeringgears.net/?gclid=CN7U7L2IrcwCFQyHaQod_HsB8Q Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted April 27, 2016 On 4/26/2016 at 3:31 PM, ObedB said: If your chassis is equipped a Sheppard M100 steering gear that is probably the source of your poor handling. The discussion occurred on 15 October 2014. The M100 can be replaced by a specific TRW gear. Apparently the Unadjustable sheppard gear starts out new with up to an 1 1/2 inches of center play. Probably gets worse as the unit ages. Could be your problem. Do some research. Maybe a member with knowledge of the gear problem will weigh in. Good luck. Here is the link to what Obedb is referring to if interested in switching over to a TRW box....if in fact the steering box is at fault and a Sheppard product. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/steering-box-play-sheppard-m100-shim-or-swap-for-a-trw-210152.html FMCA link, same subject Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barneyrubble Report post Posted April 28, 2016 Being newish into the large motorhome world, I hadn't heard or thought of the steering gear as a potential problem. On the other hand, I do have a lot of play which gives the MH opportunity to move left and right some. These threads also lead into chassis bushings as a potential source of problems, at least on Roadmaster chassis. My front sway bar bushings were changed just before I purchased it. Other bushings are unknown vintage as of now. But, I will look at the steering gear manufacturer for curiosity sake. Thank you for the new information. The alignment just done helped but was not the cure I was hoping for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted April 28, 2016 barneyrubble, call Country Coach and ask them for the steering gear manufacture and model and go from there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tcolburn Report post Posted April 28, 2016 Just another thought.... If the steering is too tight it won't feel right either. Our first MH was a '99 Southwind which seemed to wander a lot and required constant steering corrections. I took it to an alignment shop and they discovered that the steering king pins had not been properly lubricated. The steering would take a "set" instead of self-centering, so I constantly had to be steering back and forth to keep the vehicle headed straight! Once properly lubed and freed up, the steering was 100% improved. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 28, 2016 Tim makes an excellent point. Do the basics FIRST. Make sure everything is operating as it should before looking for expensive/aftermarket solutions. I present the Suspension Seminar at the FMCA Conventions. Spend the first 20 minutes going over these basics. Things like proper tire pressure for your actual weights, checking for worn components, proper lubrication, etc ARE where to start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites