srfridley

I tow a 2000 Mustang GT convertible with 5 speed trans and have had no problems. Transmission in neutral, key off (position where steering is unlocked). I'm not sure what kind of transmission is in mine, but most standard transmissions are "drip" lubricated and shouldn't pose a problem. I can't quite figure out how a front bearing turns in a stick transmission under tow in neutral.

I just purchased 6 255/80 R22.5 XZE's for my 2006 Winnebago Tour through the Michelin program. My total out-the door bill was $3280, which included mounting, balancing (steer tires only) and new metal valve stems. The dealer quote at his prices was $3636 for the tires plus $40/tire for mounting/balancing. My savings were about $600, or about 1400 miles worth of diesel fuel for my coach. Great program and very easy to use. My original tires were XRV's, but, for some reason, these are in short suppy and both Michelin and the dealer recommended the XZE tires. I have since taken a 500 mile trip and am very happy with the ride, handling and noise levels with these tires, They are as good as or better than my old XRV's.

I currently tow a 2000 mustang GT convertible with manual transmission behind my motorhome. I have towed this for about 2000 miles with absolutely no problems. I have a Roadmaster tow bracket and use a brake buddy braking system. Put the Transmission in neutral. turn the key on, then off (don't go all the way to removing it) and tow. The odometer on the 2000 is digital and doesn't accumulate towing miles.

I have a 2006 Winnebago Tour on a Freightliner chassis. The fuse box for the tow plug on my unit is located on the drivers side rear of the MH underneath the last lower panel. I had the same problem with a blown fuse and spent the best part of an afternoon locating the panel. The box apparently was re-located from the inverter/charger compartment to that area by Winnebago, as they put a sign in the charger area hinting to that fact. Steve

I have a 2006 Winnebago Tour model with the same setup and the same problem. In my case, If I am plugged into a 50 amps source and will need my AC units I remove the fuse on the Intellitech circuit board, located behind the cover on the AC distribution panel. This, in effect, disables the systems ability to cut out loads if it sees more than 30 amps. I haven't bothered to replace the circuit board due to the cost and fact that most RV parks have 50 amp service. Keep in mind that many older coaches with 50 amp AC Services don't have this type of control, when plugged into a 30 amp supply you just had to be careful of what all you ran, primarily air conditioning units.

Flying Flags RV park in Buellton is about 40 miles north of Santa Barbara, I haven't stayed there for a few years but it was a good park with plenty of room for your rig.

I have a 36 foot Winnebago Tour with HWH Leveling system. It has an Auto feature that I don't use as it was never properly set up and the necessary adjustment screws are very difficult if not impossible to access. My procedure (With coach running to preserve batteries) is: Dump suspension air pressure (button on HWH panel). Raise the front of the coach to "eyeball" level. Raise the rear of coach (again to "eyeball" value. Raise or lower right or left side as necessary to achieve an apparently level coach. Open bathroom door about half way for final level check, adjust level system as necessary to get door so it will stay in any position. Extend slides-- you may have to fine tune the level system after slides are out. Shut down engine, finish hook-ups.

Thanks for the info, one of the internet sites that I found was RACOR's, they listed my filter as a unit, I sort of suspected what you are relating on this subject, that the entire assembly need be replaced. I guess it's a good thing that my present filter has lasted over 4 years.

I am having some trouble locating (online) a replacement air filter for my coach. It is a 2006 Winnebago with Freightliner chassis and CAT C-7 engine. The filter housing is marked as an ECO BC-11X18 BD model filter with a part number of 094973-007. I have done some searches online and located ECO filters, but it appears they spec out the entire housing with element, with no replacement element identified. I would like to do this myself to save a few $ rather than have the shop that does my annual service do the replacement. I have looked at the K&N filter site, but their cross-reference search doesn't even list an ECO brand filter. Anyone out there have any experience or ideas on this matter?

I have towed a 2005 Acura MDX 4 wheels down for the last three years (about 30,000 miles) with no problems. Follow the guidance in the owners manual which is basically the same as stated in the above post. I have a DEMCO towbar/baseplate and have wired in individual bulb tow lights, a TOAD battery charger, and use a brake buddy braking system. My Acura has a navigation system making the battery charging system neccessary for any towing operations over about 2 hours.

Are you sure that your unit only has the one filter? My 2006 Winnebago Tour with Cat C-7 has two. The secondary filter is located on the top passenger side of the engine. This filter was not changed on my coach during the first two services as the mechanics could not access the top of the power unit. My rig experienced the same "faltering" that you described. I contacted Winnebago technical help, they explained how to get top access to the powertrain (part of floor in front of rear closet is removable) and the filter was changed on the next and subsequent services. I have had none of the "faltering" in the 20,000 miles or so since changing that filter (twice). Steve Fridley

A great place with full hookups is the Flying Flags RV park in Buellton (north of Santa Barbara). They can handle your larger coach and it is within walking distance of restaurants and other items in Buellton if you don't tow a car.

I routinely tow with a Brake Buddy system. Before you send the unit in for troubleshooting check your installation procedure. Are you cycling the system (pressing the test button) at least 5 times After shutting off the motor in the Honda?? This is necessary to bleed off the vacuum in the CRV's power brakes. Not doing so will result in the tow vehicle's brakes locking when the Brake Buddy activates.

Follow your GPS. It should take you over highway 26 from Bend to Gresham (a Portland Suburb) and past Mount Hood and all of the Mountain resorts. It's and easy drive with several gentle climbs. We just travelled this route last month and enjoyed the drive. My Winnebago Tour towing an Acura MDX had no problems with the grades in the higher gears.

My motorhome (2006 Winnebago Tour) has two fantastic fans with power operated roof vent covers. I have added an aftermarket "rain free" cover over the roof vent in the main living area. The problem that I have continually faced is that the covers, after being closed for long periods, stick so that the switch operated power opener stalls without opening the cover. My only solution so far is to climb on top of the coach and pry open the covers. They then work properly until the next opening attempt following closure for a few days. The problem is much more severe on the bathroom vent that is not equipped with an aftermarket roof cover. I have tried cleaning the seals and lubricating them with an Armor-all type product, but this hasn't solved the problem. Any recommended successful solutions to this issue??

I have used a Demco Excalibar for about 9 years and would recommend this unit. It has a high weight rating (8000 Lbs) and has worked very well for my usage. I have installed the Demco base plates on 3 different vehicles (Toyota, Honda, Acura) and find them well engineered, well fabricated, and with clear, simple to follow installation instructions. I also like that with the Demco setup on most vehicles you don't have to have that extra "junk" hanging on the front of your vehicle that you see with some of the other products, the system base plates connect directly to the tow bar leaving only two unobtrusive connections visible when not connected.

I have been towing with a Demco Excalibar tow bar for about nine years. The system has given me no problems and I have accumulated over 50,000 miles towing with this setup on three different vehicles. I have performed the recommended simple maintenance on the tow bar (lubrication and checking fastener torque) periodically. Is there a recommended replacement age for a tow bar, and are there signs, other than obvious weld cracks or damage, that I should be looking for? I currently tow an Acura MDX, and have towed a Honda CRV and a Toyota RAV4 with this setup.