Grandriver

Mopar has a kit. You have to buy it now. We got it free. Also you need a power supply from your MH or you battery will be flat soon.

Check the manual. You can download it. I believe you still have to pay for the wiring (that bypasses the ignition system when towing) and then you have to run power from your motorhome to the battery since it can run down in as few as 3 hours.

All Cherokees (they must have Active Drive II that has a transfer case with Neutral if they are to be towed) have the Electronically Assisted Power Steering and must have the special wiring harness if they are to be towed. In addition you will need to run a power line from the motorhome to the Cherokee battery. We installed RVI's charge system on our 2014 Limited and it worked well. From what I've been able to determine you may have to pay for the harness and its installation. Check the brochure for 2017 as well as the Owner's Manual to see what it says. The earlier manuals make it clear that you must have the wiring harness installed or any damage (from the death wobble) will not be covered under the warranty. In addition, you are on your own for getting power to the battery. Owners with the wiring harness and no external power found the battery could run down in three hours. Does the dealer you purchased the Cherokee from know that you plan to tow it? If it did they should have advised you on the requirements. In August we were at an RV park in Michigan and a fellow had a new MH and a new Cherokee and he had never heard of the wobble problem (most owners have not encountered it but those who have found it could be severe). I don't think he believed me when I explained the issue and off he went a couple of days later. I had contacted Jeep and it was during that communication I learned that after a set date (don't know what it is though) buyers will have to pay for the wiring harness and its installation. If the dealer had never down one be prepared for a good whack as my dealer took about five hours for the install. The next one is much less due to the learning time needed for the first one. I'd suggest buyers who intend to tow negotiate the installation of the wiring harness and a battery charge system at the time of purchase of the Cherokee.

I had a 2012 and then a 2014 - both T&C Limited models. I have the digital versions of both manuals. A month ago I traded the 2014 on a 2016 Expedition. We tow a Cherokee. The 2012 T&C manual states no towing at all. The 2014 manual states very clearly that it can be towed with the front wheels on a dolly. RECREATIONAL TOWING (BEHIND MOTORHOME, ETC.) Towing This Vehicle Behind Another Vehicle Towing Condition Wheels OFF the Ground All Models Flat Tow NONE NOT ALLOWED Dolly Tow Front OK Rear NOT ALLOWED On Trailer ALL OK There is NO difference in the two vehicles that I'm aware of (other than the fact they downgraded the radio in the 2014 and upgraded to folding power mirrors). Calling Chrysler is often futile as those of us with Cherokees have learned. GR

Now, this is right out of left field. Contact Ford and ask them if this would work. First you have baseplates installed. When towing you put the transfer case into 2WD. You then place the transmission in Neutral. Finally - YOU LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING. Maybe Ford can tell you if that will work and not damage the transmission. I know someone who claims to have towed a Chev Van (Front WD) to Florida behind a 40 ft DP. I immediately said, "that is not towable." He said sure it is, you just put it in neutral and leave the engine running (for about 24 hours total over 3 days for his trip). Interesting point - he and his family owned a Chev Caddy dealership (which they still have). A shot in the dark but who knows, it might work. GR

I have a feeling you may be out of luck. Go to Remco at http://www.remcoindustries.com/Towing/Store.php For your vehicle they state: Good luck. GR

Pity they had to battle it out. I almost think they were acting. My dealer said it was very clear - FCA pays. GR

How are you planning to get power from the MH to the Cherokee to avoid a flat battery? We had our harness installed a couple of months ago but have not yet done anything about power but have to get to it soon. GR

Old news. At least two other threads on this issue. It has pretty well been beaten into the ground. If you haven't seen what it is meant to correct have a look at this video. Cherokee Death Wobble towing

Thanks. I'm going to check on Toad Charge. GR

Kit installed today. Took them about 5 hours. The result looks very clean and easy to use. Now the PITA of adding a power line from the MH to the battery. They card they provided with instructions suggests using a battery charger/maintainer if towing for more than three hours. Anyone have any recommendations? GR

My wiring kit is being installed tomorrow (June 8) and I was informed today that it will be covered as a warranty item provided the mileage (or kms) do not not exceed the warranty limit. Yesterday I provided the service manager with Service Bulletin KL-08-022-16 that makes it every clear that the kit is to be installed under the warranty. Anyone who has had to pay for this kit and installation should demand a refund. GR

I'm not nuts about the idea of a class action. Further, we'd likely have to have a separate action in Canada. I'd much rather they get off their collective rear-ends and get the fix out and supply a power connection. But, if this carried on I think I'd sign on to one. My own feeling is that I had an agreement with FCA and I gave them money as my part of the bargain and they sure did not deliver and make good on their part of our agreement. We've been thinking of switching to a small trailer since our 5 year old MH hardly has 10,000 miles on it. Figured I could two with a Durango. The run around I got for a trade in value for my 2014 Town & Country Limited with only 22,000 miles on it has been amazing. Try half the value of a 2013 Toyota Highlander. I'm now thinking about a Ford Expedition instead. We will keep the Cherokee but it would no longer have to be towed if we go this route. I recently asked about the extended warranty on the Cherokee. Wow, $3600 to go to 6 years and 60,000 miles. Guess their experience to date has not been too good.

Jim, this supports my comment in the other thread on this topic - the left hand doesn't know what the right hand is doing. On re-reading the letter I received it is very clear that FCA is paying for the parts and labor. Yet, the dealers and their Customer Care Centre in Canada cannot confirm for some strange reason that I don't understand. I suspect they will get it straightened out but they sure are punishing Cherokee owners who had plans to use their MHs and tow their Cherokees. I see you have a very nice MH. Imagine if you had plans to travel for the month of July with bookings and deposits paid. Would they pick up the costs? On one forum a comment was made that the new wording in the operator's manual was solely to protect FCA. That may well be the case but they should start thinking about someone (it won't be me) consulting a lawyer and launching a class action for breach of contract. My dealer has all my correspondence making it clear that we were purchasing the Cherokee to tow behind our MH. Now, we are being told not to do that until they provide a fix at some unspecified time in the future. I am very disappointed in FCA since the time it took for them to recognize and admit to the problem was far too long. If they had started working on a fix after receiving a few complaints we wouldn't be in this position now. Let us hope they get this right soon so we can carry on with our trips - even though it will mean extra work. I have to say that if they had told me when I was purchasing that I had to add a power connection and that I needed this wiring kit followed by some fuzzy procedures, I would not have purchased the Cherokee and the following year I would likely not have traded my 2012 T&C for a 2014 T&C (and just think I was considering trading the T&C for a 2016 Durango R/T when I got the FCA letter on S13). GR

I realize what they said but what I've found over 50 years of dealing with the D3 is that their left hand often doesn't know what their right hand is doing. From what we can see, what FCA did is mail this notice to at least every buyer of a Cherokee with Active Drive II. My sales guy has ALL the emails stored from my purchase where I made it very clear I was buying a vehicle that can be towed flat and which has a transfer case. I wanted something with no towing problems and NO need to connect a power line. That is what was held out to us and he will support it. Wolfe, that is why I disagree with you opinion. I don't care if other vehicles require a power connection - I bought something what was not supposed to require such connection. (BTW I know of and respect your RV knowledge Wolfe having been a very early member of the CAT forum about a decade ago. In fact, I relied on your opinions more than any others. I was the guy who found out from the CAT reps at the Tampa show that one of their fellows monitored our forum. That is when I "outed him" and that worked well since it was great having a CAT employee in the group. So far back now I can't remember his name.) There are other issues to be considered as well. How about someone in Florida who has a summer vacation all planned an many payments made. He is taking I-10 and then working his way north visiting places like San Antonio, Sedona, Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce, Yellowstone then back via Moab, Durango, etc. He and his wife will be gone from June 1 to July 31. They have made a lot of deposits, many not refundable without a loss. They have plans to meet family members from the west coast. Now, this scenario is hypothetical but keep in mind RVers have and are planning all kinds of summer activities. How the devil is one to plan when you don't know if you can tow your Cherokee because they can't tell you when you are going to get the flat tow wiring kit. We have planned a trip at the end of May. No hope that our dealer will get the kits since they go to the US first - just like the new Pacifica. So we won't be going and DW isn't very happy. Given how long it took FCA to admit it had a problem I think it should NOT be getting off easy. FCA may not like my view but their attitude and reactions for many months demonstrate why they are struggling and recent articles in the financial pages have suggested they might not be around in a year or two (which I sincerely hope is not the case). I live in the Windsor area and our other vehicle is a Town & Country and they employ a lot of people here (assembling the Caravan, T&C and now Pacifica) and throughout their organization in North America who just don't deserve a repeat of their earlier nightmare. My nickels worth anyway (can't say 2 cents with since we got rid of our pennies in Canada). GR

I took the Cherokee in for the R39 recall today. They had the parts when we were home from Florida in December but over a 10 day period they could not find an opening to do it (amazing that a car dealership service department is staring to look like an RV dealer service department). The Cherokee has been parked in our garage while we were in Florida over the winter. Anyway, I enquired about S13. The dealer could not tell me with any certainty who pays. They suggested I call FCA. I called FCA Canada and got the runaround I expected. They cannot tell or will not tell me if there was a steering change after ours was built. All they would say is that you were sent a card that should go in your manual - full stop. Now, it is pretty clear that if one tows without this modification and there is a accident, FCA will say look - it says on the addendum to the manual that you should have this flat tow wiring kit installed. Wonderful. IMO they should be paying for the kit AND should be doing or covering the cost of the power connection from the motorhome to the battery. What do you folks think? GR

I am in Canada and we just received the notice last Friday (April 29). It does not say we have to pay - but it does not say they won't be charging us. We took delivery in Nov 2013. I noticed one comment in another forum that seemed to imply that this problem was created AFTER a change was made to the steering system. We have only towed 2014 Limited ADII for 1500 miles and have not experienced the problem. Does anyone know if, in fact, there was a change to the steering system and whether or not the flat tow wiring kit will be necessary for early models? We traded a 2011 Ford Escape because of the constant axe over our head with the frequently reported transmission burnouts. I almost went for an Edge but decided Ford did not deserve the business (they too over the Lube Pump for the Escape from Remco and the dealer quoted us $6000) and went for the Cherokee. No I wonder if that was a big mistake. We have had the differential and a half shaft replaced because it would not engage 4WD when the transmission fluid was warm. Thanks GR

I was at my dealer today and learned that as of Feb 2012 the Ford Escape is NO LONGER TOWABLE FOUR DOWN. Apparently those of us who bought earlier to tow are fine and still covered by warranty (our Escape has been towed over 10,000 kilometers with no problems). This also applies to the Fusion, which also has the 6F35 transmission. You will find the supplement to the Operator's Manual here: http://www.motorcraf...8/1260lsu1e.pdf

Had our Escape and our Flex in for six month service today. I took the TSB and the 2011 and 2012 Escape and Fusion manual pages related to towing with me and reviewed them with the Service Manager. I pointed out our concern - do we run engine for five minutes and then run through the D-R-N pattern at the end OR do we sit for the full five minutes with our foot on the brake (as stated in the TSB) and run through the gears for the full five minutes. He contacted Ford and they were very clear in their reply. You run for five minutes with your foot on the brake and run through the gears for the FULL five minutes. The 2012 Manual is being revised now and this will be in the next edition. They are NOT going to be notifying owners so it makes me wonder how we are supposed to know when they make a change like this. Are we supposed to go into the Ford web site regularly and look for applicable TSBs? Are there other TSBs that we are not aware of. More than a bit frustrating.

This does not apply to the Tahoe as going into N in the transfer case is a LOT differen,t I understand. The transmission is NOT turning like it does in our Escape. Oh, you sure don't overfill the transmission of an Escape or you are in REAL trouble.

I'm puzzled since I've always been led to believe that no Volvo is towable flat (other than RWD with a drive shaft disconnect - or a FWD with a lube pump). Also, why would you need a power connection if you have it on a dolly. Was the unit on a dolly FWD or AWD (which I can't imagine). Can you enlighten us please? GR

I suspect you have the old door and hopefully you get the new door when it is replaced. I hope I have the new door as I don't relish having to buy another for the Itasca. Our warranty expires in a couple of weeks. GR

I'm not sure when they were supposed to have strengthened the door but obviously it was not prior to your fridge being built. You will need a new door if it is like ours since there is no fix for the broken hinge. To get us through a from Saturday to Monday one of the guys in our group put gorilla glue on it and we held it while we opened and closed it. No question it is a big PITA when it breaks. GR

What year is your MH? Jayco had the problem in spades. Our door fell off after it was out of warranty (Jayco has a 2 year warranty but our 2007 Kodiak Greyhawk was 3 years old) and Jayco got a replacement quickly (we happened to be at a rally in Elkhart) and it cost me $125 for the door and installation. One Seneca owner was on his FOURTH fridge door. Our understanding was that Norcold strengthened the door. There is a fix available from Norcold but it seems tough to get it - a support that goes on the bottom hinge. One of our KodiakClassC members on Yahoo was able to get a couple of dozen and they were snapped up quickly. The irony is that the day before mine fell off we had a group session with Jayco at their office and the Norcold fridge hinge was discussed because so many had doors fall off. I now have a 2011 Itasca and I've been assuming that the hinge design was fixed. That is why I'm curious as to the year of your MH. GR ps. We were wondering if this problem was unique to Jayco because I think its wood inserts weigh much more. Many owners started moving heavy items off the door.

We towed a 2004 Colorado (bed roller and box cap so weight was over 4500 lbs) behind a 2004 39 ft Journey (Cat C7 and knew it was there. Towed the Colorado behind a 41 ft HR (Cummins ISC) and knew it was there. Towed a 2007 Tahoe behind the HR and our next MH - a Kodiak - and knew it was there. Now tow an Escape behind a smaller Itasca Impulse and know it is there. In one case with the Colorado it felt strange and within a mile I stopped and released the handbrake. No damage but it had some extra drag. When I really know we have a toad is when crossing rail lines or large bumps, then I can feel a bit of a pull. The Tahoe weighed 5700 lbs - imagine towing a trailer with that weight and not knowing it is there. This issue ranks with the "my motorhome handles just like a BMW" comment one reads on the forums periodically. When I read such comments I usually think the writer has never driven a BMW if he can't tell the difference. GR